Rock

You have to burn that carbon out of the cylinders every now and tan

I have been working 12 hours a day pretty much 6 days a week at my new job at Delta Airlines as an Avionics technician and I finally had an 8 hour day and went to a local car show. It was good to socialize and get behind the wheel again.

LED are not dimmable, they are either on or off. At least that’s what I was taught in electronics school. Some LED use PWM to turn them on and off and at rate determined by the voltage applied but they don’t work very well. Like I said they are not dimmable. I diode is either off or on. No inbetween.

I tried contacting Larry months ago and I was unsuccessful.

You just can’t trust anyone’s work anymore. But now you know it’s been done right. Are you going to put in an OD in the car now that you changed the gearing?

As far as the speedo I would add a choke to the signal wire. Are you running HEI or points? And if I remember correct there was a 100 Ohm difference from empty to full. If you are pegged full than you have power and the issue would be an open circuit or the float isn’t moving or stuck in the full postition. As far as the total resistance I really don’t remember but I think I wrote it down some where. https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Industrial-Scientific-Electronic-Chokes/zgbs/industrial/306789011

You are looking for continuity. So you would ohm out from the connector pin under the dash to the sensor. You should have a 0 ohm path. If you read anything above a short you have wiring issues or a fuse issue. I would suggest a wiring diagram and a good volt/ohm meter. You will get the pin out info off of that. The. If that’s good you might be able to get to the dummy lights and check continuity between them and the connector to the trace board. I had to do this when I had issues with my dash tach.

My suggestion would be to ohm out the circuits. Visuals don’t give you the info you need. You can remove the the dash pad and get to the connector for the trace on the back of the dash. You can easily ohm out both and see if you have continuity to that point. If you do than the problem is behind the dash.

Mine is a 70 but I liked the look of the blacked out tail panel that I incorporated it into my theme. I would like a BB motor but it goes plenty good with the 350

Do they pulsate when the car isn’t running? My guess is the regulator might be going bad. One thing to test is to see what the voltage level is coming off the alternator before it gets regulated and see what you get after it gets regulated. You should get a solid 12vdc after regulation. If it is varying say 12 - 14vdc after the regulator would be bad. You should get at least 14vdc off the alternator at idle and it will go higher as the engine speeds up. Personally I would bypass the regulator and add an internally regulated Alternator.

I was going to try this until I found a reproduced pair made out of stainless. They are exact reproductions down to the position of the screw posts. The only way you can tell is by the metal.

Hey Dan, is the air ride functional and is it adjustable? I like the ride the way it is sitting but it’s not “level” as the system suggests?

Hey Dan, is the air ride functional and is it adjustable? I like the ride the way it is sitting but it’s not “level” as the system suggests?

The float is getting hung up on something and my guess would be the filler tube.

I hate seeing this car! I get a little jealous