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mc71454

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About mc71454

  • Birthday 12/06/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Albany NY
  • Interests
    drag racing
  • Legal Name
    Thomas Baird
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • My Monte ('s)
    Clone/Tribute (ex. SS454
    Custom
    from base model)

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  1. Here's a Dyno Run of my new 576 BB. 11.25:1, 91 octane made 903 on this run. ended up at 892+/- at 6500 RPM. Hoping to have on the track late 2024 IMG_6458.MOV
  2. Just booked hotel and will be attending the eastern meet in June 2024
  3. Count me in..They are for my Chevelle but should be the same exact set.
  4. I will take 1 or maybe 2.. I think I must have gotten one of the last few for $195 a few years ago
  5. Build a standard 454 and use a solid roller cam with gentle ramps and a wide lash to get the solid lifter sound and longevity as long as you use pin oiled lifters. And use oval port heads as they will make more power anyway than the rect ports. $300 for a repro intake that has better AL than the originals is available. Deep groove pulleys are a must for looks. This can be done pretty easily. But as others have said leave the original motor as is. The motor in my Chevelle can be built for $4500 and it makes 475 hp and 520 #ft I built it for $2900 3 yrs ago.
  6. For a drop in 1/2" sending unit, check out RobbMC performance http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products.html Quality stuff
  7. I like how the design is already "patented" I will have to check that out
  8. Weld a Tab on the bar..So much cleaner. or the Submarine belt, I used a flat piece of 1/8" and a large washer on the bolt.
  9. Yes, that is it pretty much. Time consuming, but straightforward. If you have the Factory Assembly Manual it really helps when removing the dash and putting it back, re-attaching grounds etc. The Dakota Instructions tell you what color the factory wires are for what connection you need to make. I checked all of mine with a test light and then verified in the assembly manual as well. The Dakota Instructions were correct.
  10. Hi Mac, Yes I do have a rev limiter. but haven't hit it as I have 5 passes on the car so far. The electric gauges are reasonably accurrate and I have never had a problem with them in my Monte as I run Autometer electrics in that. As I found out this past Sunday, the RPM readout in the Dakota is useless when racing. I am installing the analog tach for racing tomorrow night and will try to get a comparison.
  11. Thanks Dave, I appreciate that. Good luck with the mod this weekend Tom
  12. They are graphs that slide from left to right to coincide with the numerical digital readout in the center of the pods. Not going to be useful for racing, but look nice. I still need to calibrate my speedo, hopefully Tommorrow.. I am going to install a small shift light and an old '70's Sun tach for use while racing as long as it looks good. With the shift light I don't really need the tach, but I already have one and will see how it looks
  13. For Forward normal pattern... 1. Move your shifter from 1st to 2nd making sure it is not under any tension and is positively in 2nd gear 2. Then using a fine tip sharpie scribe a line on the plate with one on each side of the shifter latch. 3. Take a cutoff wheel or even a dremel tool with a coarse cutoff wheel and make a notch for the shifter latch to fall into just like the other notches in the plate. Now you can bang the shifter from first to second. 4. Now when you want to go to 3rd you need to lift the latch and go forward. In order to stop it from going into neutral you need to weld a small piece of bar stock on the inside of the shifter. Make the piece large enough that you will need to grind out the next notch to engage and hold third. I made this piece a little taller than needed so i could grind it down to where I wanted it and make a deeper notch to make it harder to slip past 3rd 5. You need to now move the shifter to 3rd and make another notch into the piece you just welded on just llike the first one you made. I stepped the notch so that in order to go from 2nd to 3rd it was normal depth, but made it so I had to really squeeze the handle make the latch go all the way up to get out of 3rd and clear to neutral. Here is a picture of the Final Product before painting with the shifter in PARK..Any questions just drop me a note. Hope this is helpful..
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