Katman
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Posts posted by Katman
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54 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:
And what is the asking price? Do you have pics of the switch? Wiring? Is it a 4way or 6 way adjusting seat? Did it work?
It worked when pulled. Here are two pictures of tracks, wiring etc... Looking for best offer. Two tracks only listings are on eBay right now for $600-$700. Mine are in better shape, being car is from California originally. And includes the seat.
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1 hour ago, Katman said:
Up for sale is one original power bench seat from my 1971 SS Monte. I converted to bucket seats so it has been a household conversation piece the last few years. I'll post a picture of the seat later today. The cloth is in very good original condition. I'm near Carlisle but I have a conflict and will not be attending this years event in June.
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Up for sale is one original power bench seat from my 1971 SS Monte. I converted to bucket seats so it has been a household conversation piece the last few years. I'll post a picture of the seat later today. The cloth is in very good original condition. I'm near Carlisle but I have a conflict and will not be attending this years event in June.
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6 hours ago, jft69z said:
I have 255-55-17 rear and 223-60-17 on front which seem to fir pretty good, no clearance issues.
Only problem is finding the rear tire size nowadays. The only readily available option is a Bridgestone Dueler tire, which from prior experience with that tire is bad. Searches will show a couple from Pirelli, but in reality they're not available at all, discontinued. I thought I found some 2 days ago on ebay from discounttiredirect, but they were mis-labeled and were actually 225-55-17.
Yeah I'm finding that size is impossible to get. I found 235/55/17 (eagle) on walmart.com but no 255/55/17 available. I've also check cokertires.com.
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11 hours ago, MCfan said:
A 17 x 8 rim with 4.5" backspace is 0 offset (mounting surface is centered on the rim width). To keep the wheel/tire combo centered within the available space on first gen Montes, a +6mm offset is needed on the front and a +12mm offset is needed on the rear. Since your 0 offset rims will push the wheel/tire combo outboard 1/4" (6mm) and 1/2" (12mm) from the center of available space front and rear, respectively, you can encounter outboard clearance issues with wider tires.
You will be fine with 255/55-17 on the rear and 235/55-17 on the front. Going to a 275/55-17 on the rear (with those 0 offset rims) will leave you with only about 1/8" clearance with the wheel well lip. Some may risk that but I personally would not.
Thanks. Kind of what I thought.
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I've read the post about maximum tire size. I purchased a set of 17 x 8 Cragars with 4.5bs. I've been told the maximum tire size I could go on the back is 255/55/17. Can someone confirm that - maybe someone running the 8 inch Cragar rims in the rear? I have 17 x 7 rims for the front and was thinking maybe a 235/55/17. I want to make sure there is plenty clearance in the front for full turn to turn range. In the past I've had g60-15's in the front and they were too big. I'm planning on using BF Goodrich Radial T/A white letter. Thoughts? I am definitely NOT ok with shaving the lips.
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On 4/26/2022 at 9:02 PM, Grant MacPherson said:
If that is all you need let me know and I will put one in the mail to you. I have some used ones that are still serviceble.
Yeah, that's what I am looking for. 129 Sherri Drive, Lebanon, PA 17046.
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If it is the same female connector, I already have that but my tank is also a female so I need some kind of male to male adapter to make this work. Any idea where I can get that?
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Does the pressure side of the load leveler use the same female connector as the shocks and other ends of the air lines? If so, is there a male nipple available to connect that female connector to the load leveler?
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If you're going to pay that kind of money, I'd recommend the billet hinges from eddie motorsports.
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Great article. Pair of fenders - $900. Good luck finding that. Maybe when the reproduction fenders are readily available but not right now.
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On 5/29/2021 at 8:04 AM, wallaby said:
You have the problem under control then?
I was surprised nobody mentioned the 4-way flashers until we got pretty far into the post.
Yeah I do. Now onto other remaining issues (gas gauge and fan switch). I'm happy about having the tilt column back in the car.
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I ordered something from them recently. They overcharged for shipping and then it took over a week to get it. It actually came in a "The Parts Place" box. I complained about the shipping charge but they did not credit me anything back. They shouldn't put parts up on their site that they don't have or should at least state that it will come from someone else and be delayed while they send the order through multiple inboxes.
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1 minute ago, cny first gen 71 said:
Must be something wrong Mark, it left 2 black marks on the road 🤣
Nothing wrong with that as far as I can see
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I am not fully committed but will try to make the Easter meet. Jared, hang in there. It is all about location, location, location. Carlisle is great because it is central to many FGMCC members and is a great site for a meet. My Monte is almost done and I do have a trailer so in the future I plan some long drives. I took my Monte to Charlotte over a decade ago. Keep the faith brother.
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Started detailing the Monte. Still running across minor obstacles (washer pump leaking - bought a rebuild kit, amp gauge). But this will be ready for Carlisle. Limited slip (not part of the original plan) working just fine on test drive up the lane.
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Thanks. I see that Ground up still sells the collar for tilt wheel conversion.
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Similar to what I ran across. Found my turn signal switch is defective. Don't know how the work that was done could cause your issue though.
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The turn signal switch on the reconditioned non-column shift column is defective. I bought a new turn signal switch and hope to re-use my original tilt column. I've read on here where it is possible to swap a collar from a console shift steering column into my original column shift steering column (hope this makes sense). I read where someone on this forum where this worked but details were not provided.
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8 hours ago, MC1of80 said:
Ohhhh? What is the column out of? If olds, buick or Pontiac the turn signal switch is different.
I was told it was a Monte Carlo. But I did tonight isolate the issue to the new steering column by plugging in the old column (laying it on the floor) and finding that the brake lights work. It's either the wrong turn signal switch or a defective switch. By the way the reason the four ways did not work is that I did not realize their are two flashers, one for the turn signals and one for the four way flashers. Plugged my extra flasher in and four ways work.
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On 4/13/2021 at 11:40 AM, stangeba said:
"Parking lights work. Brake lights and turn signals do not. Also four way flashers do not work"
I would look closely at the turn signal switch, it's wires and connector.
I believe the power you are looking for, all goes through the T/S switch.
What ever has changed or is different would get my attention first.
Start testing for voltage at one end and follow the wire till it has power.
Good luck!
It's a different steering column in addition to everything else. Does anyone have and idea of what pin on the connector I should be looking at? fyi...switching steering column due to conversion from column shift to console. Another oddity is that when I hit the brakes both turn signal indicators on the dash light.
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Proper type of bulbs used and both filaments are intact.
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2 hours ago, cbolt said:
Sounds like its time to start chasing voltage from the fuse block to the switches, brake and turn signal. You say you have no tail lights at all, even with the parking lights on? Do the head lights come on? Did you ground the head light switch?
Everything works except for the brake lights and the turn signals. All parking lights work except for drivers front side marker. That harness has and open on the brown wire of the side marker connector. I'll be ordering a new harness to fix that from M&H.
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3 minutes ago, cbolt said:
It almost sounds like two separate issues... the brake lights and the turn signals/flashers. You say the parking lights work so i am assuming that includes tail lights and all the marker lights, yeah? If so your bulb sockets are properly grounded but not getting the additional voltage for the second bulb filaments. I would diagnose one at a time, starting with the brake light switch. Find it and check for voltage on the input and output side of the switch. Oh and i recommend a test light which is quicker and easier to use than a voltmeter and will give you the results you need which are really just "voltage? yes or no". Electrical issues are normally fairly straightforward if you can follow wires and diagrams... follow the voltage starting at the fuse block and work down the line until you figure out where the disconnect is. Both the flashers and turn signals go through the turn signal switch in the column, which could be your culprit on that issue, especially considering the harnesses are new. I had an issue one time where the ignition key tumbler was loose and causing an intermittent short in the column. That was a bugger to find and fix but it was a matter of following the voltage.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
I have a wiring diagram. All of the side markers work except for the drivers side marker in the front. I diagnosed that to an open in the side marker harness and will order a new one. I do have a test light and a volt meter.
power bench seat
in Cars and Parts For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Switch works. Nothing is missing. See the other ads on eBay.