Mr70Monte

why use the old bronze bushing, use this instead https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-ct1078?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-acdelco&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1LTHnJXE1gIVQ1mGCh1wwAvYEAQYAyABEgINavD_BwE

in a 200R4, the speedometer is driven off the governor gear, you access it by removing the pan & governor housing,

My '70 (350-300hp) has 2 lines from the tank, (fuel & return). The return line comes off the metal fuel filter (AC GF-432) right above the water pump, its the same setup that was used on '69 Chevelles. If my memory serves me correct, this was used on the L48 (350-300hp) when air conditioning was ordered.

mine are as Rob described (they are even dated A 70). These are 2 piece rotors, they have a replaceable disc that is bolted to the hub (disc is not available now), maybe someone replaced the disc while they were still available. This type of rotor was also used on '67-'69 Z28's and are very pricey.

break your other one, its the perfect time to do this simple power window upgrade........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gadOiOarQI

there should not be any dash lights come on with the key in the "Accessory" position. They will come on with the key in the "ON" position.

no wonder I could never get my car to run right, I always thought that the coil fired when the points opened! also, please explain how "the coil fills up when the points are open"

depends on the cam, if you have a roller cam, no break in is needed. but if you have a flat tappet cam, as soon as it fires up, get the rpms up (2000-3000) & keep them there for 30 minutes (no idling) if you have any leaks or other problems, shut it down , fix them & then continue the break in process.

I guess it pays to be in the HVAC field, I've got about 45lbs of R12.

if you don't want to worry about the chrome ones rusting, Pypes make them in stainless steel, here's the part number, PYPES EVT54

if your referring to the lens at the top of the float, it just plastic, I redid mine, repainted it with a translucent paint I found at a craft store. You will also notice the repair I had to do in the middle of the float itself, heat shrink tubing worked fine.

As said before, when the fluid is low, the float drops & the red part of the float is placed between the light & the fiber optic cable, when the fluid is high enough, the float is raised & the green part is between the bulb & fiber optic cable. The float internal piece is plastic, it is very fragile & will break easily, the top part that changes the color from green to red is plastic also, its just tinted enough to change the color. Here are a few pics I just took of an extra float assembly I have. Years ago, I was lucky enough to find a NOS one at Super Chevy Indy, for the amazing prize of $5. http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/21/16063812_large.jpg http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/41/16063814_large.jpg http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/51/16063815_large.jpg http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/61/16063816_large.jpg http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/91/16063819_large.jpg

BTW, here's a Hurst Competition Plus T5 S-10 shifter. http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/pts/3317835548.html

Sam, I just did some measuring on my T5, from the front of the transmission (not the bell housing) to the center of the shifter is 21", it starts at 19" +/- & ends at 23" +/-. The overall length of it is 24.5"

I do know that the T5 is 3" longer than a 200r4, which is the same length as a TH350. All factory T5 bell housings used a 10.5" clutch & tilted the T5 towards the driverside, I have seen a T5 installed straight up using a standard bell housing, the only problem doing it this way is the mount is tilted 17 degrees to the passenger side then. If you were to use a standard bell housing, the linkage would be the same as a Muncie. Also, if a standard bell housing was used, the shifter would be on the top, dead center of the tunnel. Hurst makes shifters for T5's, I have a Billet Plus (NIB) & just yesterday bought a Competition Plus, they are both designed for a Camaro & compensate for the 17 degree tit, so when installed they are straight. But Hurst does make one for a S-10 (T5 is not tilted) shifter base is straight.