freddiefokker

Sometimes it's the simple solution. My motor guy called me and said, "Before we start messing with dropping pans and looking at oil pumps, add a quart of oil." Well, that fixed it. I know the 402 is supposed to take 5 qts, but when I was a kid, my Dad had two 454 trucks on the farm and they both took 6 qts. My car was just a little below the fill line with 5 qts and now it's a little over the line with 6. No flashing oil light and no drop in oil pressure at stop lights now. So I guess the new sending unit and change to 20w50 was a waste of time. Who knows. Next oil change she gets 5.5-6 qts.

I ran the oil and temp lines through the speedo cable grommet. The temp probe and nut were difficult to pass through, but I enlarged the slit in the grommet with a sharp pocket knife and was able to pass the temp probe through from the interior side. It's easier with two people. One thing that was cool was the guage bracket holes lined up perfectly with the screws holes that hold the ashtray assembly, so no drilling into my stock dash. The ashtray still opens and closes perfectly.

I think it's a bad oil pump relief valve.

I put a tee in the block so I could keep the stock warning light and plumb in the manual guage.

Ok, I installed a cheapo set of Equis guages and I still have the same problem. At every third or fourth stop sign/light, the oil pressure drops below approx 12, the idiot light comes on, it drops on the guage to below 10 and then recovers. It seems to recover faster when I let off the brake. Vacuum? I'm perplexed, dudes. So far, I've changed the idiot light sending unit, changed the oil from 10w30 to 20w50, turned up the idle a turn, and installed a manual op guage. The car has plenty of op at idle (20) and 30-40 going down the road. Any ideas?

That's exactly what I'm doing. Just bought a two guage cluster from Summit and probably just relieve myself of the temp/oil idiot lights. I'll keep the volt light. Where's a good spot to run the lines? I'd like to avoid drilling any new holes in my firewall.

Thanks. I had already changed the sending unit. No change. I turned the idle screw up a turn. Same thing.

Awesome, man. Thanks!

Yes, I took the reading from the sending unit port by the oil filter. Warmed up and on a lift. 20-22 psi at idle, a little more reving it just a bit on the lift. It only does it in Drive at or approaching a stop. I don't think it's an engine problem but it's got me a little curious.

Greetings. I'm getting an occasional intermittent flash of my oil pressure warning light in my all stock '71 402. It flashes sometimes while idling at a stop light or stop sign, always while in drive, never in Park. I hooked a manual oil pressure gauge up to it in the shop; plenty of oil pressure at idle in park and in gear. Oil looks and smells good with no gas smell. Changed the oil (Valvoline Racing 10w-30). Turned the idle screw up a turn. Idles at 700 in Park and about the same in gear on a Sun tach. Replaced the original oil pressure sending unit. No change. It's a real low miles (23k) all original engine, so it's sat a lot, but has always been started and run regularly throughout it's easy life. I'm fairly confident it's an indication thing; like I said, It's got plenty of oil pressure on a manual gauge in the shop. My motor guy says use 20w-50 oil... Any ideas?

Good morning. I'd like to add a simple looking two (oil/temp) or three (oil/temp/volts) gauge cluster to my all stock '71 402. AutoMeter makes some decent looking ones. I'd like it to be as covert looking as possible because I plan on showing it in survivor classes and I just prefer it to look stock. So maybe black gauge faces, black frame, etc. Maybe place it on the bottom lip of the dash, possibly under the ash tray? I'd also like to keep my warning (idiot) lights functional. Can I tee manual gauge fittings into my block/intake and reattach the stock sending units? Anyone else do this? I'm totally into copying someone else's cool, good looking setup. Russ

How do those Electro-Tech 4x6s sound? Are there any ways to mount more well known brands of speakers? I guess it's a magnet size/location issue?

Ok, I'm putting together a plan of attack here, I have a couple more questions... I plan on using a modern head unit that fits in the dash from one of the repro companies, so there won't be any speaker impedance issues. You're suggesting using the Electro-Tech 4x6s in the front because no other modern speakers will fit in the dash, at least on the driver's side? I currently have one stock rear speaker on the passenger side of the package tray with the package tray board on top and a stock type speaker grill. Looking in the trunk, it appears there is an identical empty speaker hole and mounts on the driver's side. It looks like all I have to do to install two 6x9s in the rear is to cut a hole in the package tray board and get another stock style rear speaker grill. Did any MCs or other GM A bodies have dual rear speakers? Again, I'm trying to look as stock as possible.

Thanks. My car is a Canadian built car, so there was no build sheet. I did send off for a summary sheet from Vintage Vehicle Services and it supposedly came with a U69 AM/FM radio, but it has an AM radio in it, possibly dealer installed. At any rate, it is an AC C60 car with two front speakers, It does have the single rear speaker installed, but not on the summary sheet, again maybe dealer installed. Why someone would order an AM/FM radio without a rear speaker and then have the dealer put in an AM radio and a rear speaker is beyond me, but a retired GM engineer friend of mine says it happened all the time. At any rate, I think I may take the stock radio out and put in a modern vintage style unit and just run aftermarket speakers in the front. I don't really want to cut up the original rear package tray. I would imagine just hooking up a single rear speaker to a stereo head unit would sound terrible.

I found some replacement rivets online. $20 for a pair of rivets. I'm not going to pay that just based on principle.... You can get a pair of repo door sill plates with the riveted tags for less than $50. I'll come up with something. $20 for a pair of rivets...insane!