TAG429

You can also use paper clips cut and shaped to form. Easier to bend than the staples you get with some kits. I used the plastic removable body rivets on mine. They are super easy to install and blend in.

Not sure if they reproduce just the spring however you could go to the local hardware store and they would have a variety of springs to try. In my younger years it was not uncommon that your hood ornament was stolen off the car. Mercedes and Cadillac emblems were popular to turn into neck chains. I owned a 1977 Mercury Monarch that had it's hood ornament stolen. I found another (by proper methods and not the "twist, yank, and run" method). I ended up using 18 gauge wire to reattach. I threaded the wire through the base of the medallion, pushed wire through hole on base and then wrapped the wire around the piece the spring attached to on the base. This made the medallion stiff and you were not getting it off unless you opened the hood. Even if they figured that out it was at least 5 minutes to unwrap the wire!! It worked. Just a thought.

I've seen Sam's car in action and it is absolutely wicked!!!.

A good practice to ensure you have a good master is to plug the ports to ensure you have no air in the system after bench bleeding with the tubes. Mount the master to the booster with the plugs still in the ports and press the brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds. The pedal should be firm and no movement the entire length of time. I just recently did the above mentioned steps and still had a bad NEW master cylinder. The new master bench bled fine and held pressure when plugged off and on the car. I connected the lines to start the line bleeding and it would only spurt minimal amount of brake fluid. In the end the New master had bad internal seals therefore pushed more air then fluid. I had to return and get another new master which solved that problem.

Gravity bleeding did not work for me. I used a Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder (this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html) to get fluid flowing to the calipers. I would run the fluid down in the master (but not dry) 2 or three times which pretty much removed the air. I would then ask my lovely wife to pump the brakes to finish with a pressure bleed.

So my conversion was new master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve, lines, rotors, matching front calipers and rear disc conversion.

All brakes lines were replaced however i went with steel but did stainless flex lines to the calipers. I originally ordered and attempted the Inline rear disc conversion they sell. It was cheaper than RightStuff and came with new rear axle lines cut and flared to length. I was unable to use the kit due my axle stud flange not fitting into the rotor hat. I ended up going with an SSBC kit that fit like a glove. I had already purchased the 7 pc kit to replace all the hard lines so I just cut to length the axle lines from that kit. Stainless vs OEM steel for the hard lines is personal preference and there really is no performance advantage unless you drive in bad weather then the stainless wins. The flex lines I went with stainless because the SSBC came with them so just purchased front stainless lines. I also went DOT 5 and glad I did since I had fluid all over the place!!!

Aerospace 303 used here as well.

Inlinetube's proportioning valves are like the original and do not require any modification for the factory plug to fit. i converted to 4 wheel disc and had to change the proportioning valve for a disc/disc setup. I purchased that from Inline also. I highly recommend that you also pick up a proportioning valve bleed tool like this (https://www.performanceonline.com/Combination-Proportioning-Valve-Bleed-Tool/). I struggled greatly to get fluid to the front calipers after I replaced all my lines. Part of the reason was due to the fact that the proprotioning valve tripped and prevented fluid to the front. With empty brake lines it would not reset. I also picked up a 60ml veterinarian syringe which I used to back fill fluid into the lines (caliper to proportioning valve) and reduce the amount of air to aid in bleeding.

If you order the complete brake line kit from Inline (part# CMB7102 7 pc kit)) you specify if you want stainless (@ $175) or or OE steel (@ $145) the master cylinder lines are included. The master cylinder lines are connected with a bracket to the power brake booster mount. It is not easy to see or get your hands on. I couldn't figure what was holding them on myself until I pulled the booster and master off the car. It is alot easier if the inner fender is removed.

I just replaced all my lines with lines from Inline Tube. All fit nicely with very little "tweaking".

I have seen Sam's (Bones) Legendary seat covers with the bolsters and they are nice!! Comparing Legendary to the TMI seats the Legendary look more "at home" in the Monte then the TMI. Less bulk. The seat covers and require foam should be cheaper than the TMI seats and required brackets. Even if you had to buy new springs it would still be cheaper.

I have seen in person the TMI seats in Chevelles and they do look nice however a bit "bulky" looking compared to a stock bucket. I haven't sat in a TMI seat so can't offer comments on comfort. The TMI patterns look similar to OEM for the vinyl seats however are not exact and you will notice the difference when looking front to rear unless you get the matching rear cover from TMI.

Big Shout out to Vinnie and Sam for putting on a great mini meet!!. Attendance was not what we were expecting but it was still fun! Thank you you Vince and Sam!

Right Stuff makes good products. I know several people running their rear disc conversions and have had no problems. I was going to go with a kit made by Inline tube which is slighter less expensive. The one caution I would make is measure your axle flange where the wheel studs attach. The kit Inline supplied rotor (very similar if not the same as the right stuff kit) hat had the same dimension as the inside rotor hat dimension preventing the mounting of the rotor to the axle. I ended up returning and going with an SSBC kit that had 11.25 dia rotors. Significantly more money but very nice product and all aluminum and stainless. My axle is a 8.5 BOP with bolt in axles.