Jump to content
Home Page  | How to Join  | Official Merchandise  | Western Meet | Eastern Meet | Meet Photos | Technical Info  | Museum  | Parts Sources  | Officers


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


jft69z last won the day on February 6

jft69z had the most liked content!

About jft69z

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Western NY
  • Legal Name
    Joe T
  • Occupation
    Hydropower Plant Control Room Operator. Prior Instrument & Control tech.

Recent Profile Visitors

96 profile views
  1. jft69z

    Rear control arm bushes

    FWIW, I looked rear suspension service up under NAPA ProLink. It shows the same bushings listed for ALL the rear control arms, both upper & lower. Listed quantity for the job is '4' required for upper & '4' required for lower. They've been known to be wrong before though EDIT: Looked on Rockauto, looks like they are saying the same, all 8 will be the same part number for upper & lower..
  2. jft69z

    Rear control arm bushes

    It's been a while since I've done them on a rear end like these, but I seem to recall the need to be careful when removing and installing the bushings on the axle housing. Being cast & out there without much support, there is a possibility of snapping the mounting ears off of the housing itself. Especially important to use some type of bushing/bearing press as stated above for this part of the job to take any stress off of the mounting ears and put the pressure on the bushing itself. Beating them out with a hammer may lead to a real bad day. I'll be doing mine soon when I pull the body off and re-do the frame & suspension. I'm sure I'll be going to try & use the OTC 7249 kit with the various updated adapter kits to find something that will work to press them out & the new ones back in. You could probably make a tool out of large washers, exhaust pipe pieces, all-thread etc to help pull them out. Drilling the rubber out of the old ones seems to be a popular trick too. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY/ref=pd_cp_263_3?pd_rd_w=tul6W&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=VC32R5KPQ4HKZ7SA4CAP&pd_rd_r=45780178-638a-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&pd_rd_wg=B6O7c&pd_rd_i=B0002SRGXY&refRID=VC32R5KPQ4HKZ7SA4CAP&th=1
  3. jft69z

    71 Monte carlo SS 454

    The axle codes should be located on the axle tube itself. Mine is on the passenger side, between the brake backing plate and the center carrier (closer to the carrier), facing the front of the car. This may help you decode what the letters & numbers mean: http://www.firstgenmc.com/tech/rearaxledecoding.shtml https://www.chevellestuff.net/qd/rear_axle_info.htm
  4. jft69z

    AC System Oil

    It shouldn't, unless maybe you added the oil to a pressure port in a horizontal line and then immediately pulled a vacuum? Negligible at best would be my guess even in that situation, and not at all if added to the individual parts as mentioned earlier. My gauge set (SnapOn) has a sight glass to keep an eye on it, and never really noticed any oil flowing through either.
  5. jft69z

    AC System Oil

    Also, keep in mind PAG oil is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air. Try not to keep the system open any longer than necessary and pull a real good vacuum to evacuate as much as you can.
  6. jft69z

    AC System Oil

    Go back up to my original post, I added an attachment as an example of system components and oil capacities.
  7. jft69z

    AC System Oil

    Usually with newer cars there is a chart in the service information system with the amounts of oil to add to the different parts you're replacing. As you did, they say to measure what you took out, and replace that amount of oil in the new part. Since you flushed everything out and there is no oil at all in the system, Old Air isn't wrong to say add oil to the rest of the components. The oil is going to turn into a mist and distribute itself throughout the system during use anyways. I have an oil injector that I also use to add oil and dye to systems that are already charged. This would hook to the pressure port. I'm pretty sure you're turning the clutch assembly & not just the pulley, so that internals of the compressor are turning, so that shouldn't be the problem. Is 10.5 oz the TOTAL system capacity they're saying for oil, or just the compressor? Below is an attachment for a newer car as an example of oil capacities for new parts. ZR1 AC.pdf
  8. jft69z

    Turbo 350/400 swap

    That's a good GM part number from the look of it. You may be able to go to a local GM dealer and get it for a decent price if you check with the parts dept., especially if you have any sort of dealings with them already. Good find Dan
  9. jft69z

    Aftermarket Gauge Cluster

    Someone makes gauges that fit into the idiot light spots, however you mentioned you wanted to keep them. Here is the info for you to at least look at as an option. Made by Shiftworks, but available from Summit, Jegs, etc. Says it only works on dashes with idiot lights. Certainly will keep the 'covert' look you want. https://shiftworks.com/collections/gauges-upgrades/products/1970-72-chevelle-gauge-conversion https://www.summitracing.com/parts/siw-s511-w https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/siw-s511-g.pdf
  10. jft69z

    Water drips under dashboard...

    The windshield seal on my 72 appears to be original, and failed completely. I can push the window out by hand. However.... there are also some minor holes in the A-pillar where water can find its way thru that I'll need to repair as well. Saw it after I pulled the stainless window molding. My prior 72 had the same A-pillar issue on the passenger side, way back in the late 80's that needed to be addressed when I had a new windshield put in. Hopefully you don't run into that on your car.
  11. jft69z

    AC Plenum box

    They're called speed nuts, thread cutting speed nuts, thread cutting nuts, emblem nuts, etc. NAPA has them, HomeDepot, etc. Here are a few examples: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dorman-Thread-Cutting-Nut-Assortment-15-Pack-10774/301440714 https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Nuts-Self-Threading-s/131.htm (I've used this place before, pretty decent) https://autofastenersandclips.com/collections/self-threading-nuts https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-US%3AIE-Address&biw=1680&bih=897&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=I6mRXJ-aCauHggfPiYaIBg&q=Thread+Cutting+Speed+Nuts+&oq=Thread+Cutting+Speed+Nuts+&gs_l=img.12...151558.151558..152979...0.0..
  12. We just had Dairy Queen tonight here at work , sent the boss out to pick it up.
  13. Not in the least. The McD around here has the most inept, slowest misfits I've ever seen. More than enough times the veins in my head had almost exploded waiting for a couple of Eggamuffins, only to be met with attitude at the window, and crappy hockey pucks for a meal besides. Talked to the manager one time after I got to work and she was beat down by the jackholes as well. I felt sorry for HER. It was semi-tolerable when they had 2 for $3 or something like that, not now at full price. I go back every year or so when I have to, but same disappointment. By contrast, Burger King has a decent breakfast sandwich, they're very quick and the girls are always wonderful. Plus they have 2 for $4.
  14. jft69z

    Steering column color

    My first 72 Custom with dark saddle interior, tilt and NK4 steering wheel had a black column. The present 72 Custom with dark saddle interior and NK33 wheel has a black column as well (as Canuck has just pointed out). I was thinking about spraying the column dark saddle when I get it out, but it'll probably look stupid with the black steering wheel, so I'll re-spray it black. If I was putting an aftermarket steering wheel on it, that may have swayed my choice.
  15. jft69z

    body seals choice

    I'm sort of in the same boat, looking for all of that stuff. I did a lot of searching thru the old posts here and it seemed like a lot of people recommended 'Metro Moulded' as a supplier for the door, trunk, and hood seals. Soft Seal seemed like it has a good following too. I think some liked that the Metro seals were soft, as others had trouble with some vendors seals being too stiff and interfering with the trunk closing, etc. I've run into that before, big pain.... I saw those complete kits from OPG last week, but decided to order them separately based on the above. I ordered this paint seal kit from OPG though, and it should be here this week (20% off last week so I got it there): https://www.opgi.com/monte-carlo/PSK977/ Seems like it is a "RESTOPARTS' branded part (OPGI's brand I think), but it is also available at Summit. Some things are, and somethings aren't from what I've noticed. If you had a bunch of stuff to get from Summit anyways, things like this might push you towards the free shipping threshold. I haven't called Metro yet to order, but from what it seems on their website, they would have all of the other seals needed in my case.