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Mike 57

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Mike 57 last won the day on September 7 2019

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About Mike 57

  • Birthday 04/11/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Castle, PA
  • Legal Name
    Michael Herno
  • Occupation
    Electronic Security

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  1. Jared, Do you have a true firewall between the trunk and the seat. There is a requirement for one with the cell in the trunk. I think the battery need to be in a can. You can get a sending unit for most cells with GM values. You will have to take the foam out of the cell for the sending unit.
  2. I never liked to adjust lash on a running engine. If the engine is not making any valve train noises I would leave it alone. They do not need adjustment like solids, unless they are a short travel racing hydraulic lifter and they are noisy. I usually adjust the intake when the exhaust valve for that cylinder is just starting to close and I adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed. Back off the adjuster and then tighten until you can feel some drag when your are spinning the pushrod between your fingers. when yiu feel that drag tighten 1/2 turn and lock down
  3. I would do a compression test on it. Pay close attention to the plugs as you remove them prior to the compression test. One of the may give you an indication as to the cylindr that is giving you trouble. I hate to bring this to the game, but you might have a wiped out lobe on the cam. Modern oils are not good for break in on flat tappet cams.
  4. I just got mine a drum of Renegade 112+ fuel today. It must like it, It drinks a bunch! Paul, if you see this check out LSM valve spring compressors. My springs are real healthy, 800 lift 7400 chip and it is real easy to change springs on the head. You will the american racing headers they fit great. They are a little tight to the block if you run a diaper, but they fit really well and do not hang down at strange angles.
  5. I like the slotted rotors better than drilled and slotted, but they are hard to find. I have aftermarket Wilwood brakes on the front of mine. It is a lot lighter package. I do notice a difference between solid and drilled and slotted on tracks with short shutdowns. I have seen cracks radiating from the drilled area. that is probably from me putting a lot of heat into a cold rotor. For the street a good pad and coated rotor to prevent rust should be fine
  6. Decide your goals. Lots of power in a 383. If you are not going to turn it hard your stock block with main studs should work. You should have the mains line honed with new studs. You will have to clearance the block at the pan rails. The oil pan will need to replaced with a 400 or aftermarket pan. The assembly will need to be balanced with a 400 balancer and ring gear. You probably will not need to worry about it but with real high lift cams you need to check clearance between the lobes and connecting rods.I figure that you are planning a cruiser so keep the compression in check, aluminum heads will help don't go with giant ports. Retrofit roller cam would be good. A big block really fills up that engine bay! You need to figure all the accessory drives will have to be sourced, not a lot of that stuff left in junk yards. But I love big blocks!
  7. Mike 57

    Mike57's Stuff

    Car stuff that I play with
  8. I know I am late to the part but the best fitting header I have found is the American racing header. they fit my AFR325 heads and tuck up to the body nice. The are close to some places on a Gen 6 block but I can still get the engine diaper on. They fit better than hooker or headman.
  9. If you are looking to restore a 402 car it may be worth it, but other than that it is a small big block. And if it has big heads it will be a dog on bottom end.
  10. Dave, hate to see this happen to you. I lost one also a couple of years ago. Davy set me up with the Morel pressure lubed solid bushing roller, they seem to be good so far
  11. Mike 57

    402 bbc

    I Run American Racing Headers. They are the best fitting header I have found for the Monte. I have used Headman, Hooker and Doug Thorley. They are stainless with thick flanges, I do not use header gaskets just a little Ultra Grey silicone. They sit higher in the chassis, I flattened the bottom tubes of hooker headers, the collectors are tucked up tighter and are aimed right at the humps of the cross member. They are a little expensive but will never rust, I had my steel ones re-coated several times.
  12. I am amazed that you have an issue with the engine run on with the plugs looking like that. I tend to think that you have the idle set up high to compensate for the cam. Does your MSD have the bushings to adjust the CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE CURVE? If it does I would put the black bushing in that gives you 18 degrees of centrifugal and then try 20 degrees of initial. That may bring the Idle speed up and you can close the throttle plates a little bit, that may help run on. What is the cranking compression numbers? Was the cam installed straight up, or advanced or retarded? A 107 lobe separation makes a lumpy idle. What brand of cam?
  13. I also agree, run the builders recommendation.
  14. Like Sam my big concern would be rods and rod bolts. It would be nice to know what you have. I have Molnar rods with ARP2000 bolts in my 565 shift at 7200
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