Pale340

It came from Summit Racing and the sticker on it says it was shipped with 3oz of oil and to look at the spec sticker on the car. Mine does not have the sticker and I am not sure it would work anyway due to going to R-134. The R-134 conversion was completed several years ago before I got the car so I have no specs on the kit. I just do not want to put to much in it.

Hey all! First off, if this topic is in the wrong forum I apologize and please move it to where it goes. The question is, how much oil goes into the compressor? I bought a re-manufactured unit from Summit Racing and it has 3oz of oil already in it. This is a R-134 unit. I have replaced the drier and the line from the drier to the expansion valve. This system was running R-134 already and was blowing pretty cold. The inner compressor bearing was going out as it was very loud and sounded like it was coming apart. So, how much more oil, if any, do I add to the new compressor, and how much R-134 should I put back into the system? I do have a vacuum pump and gauges. Any suggestions or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

So I am finally pulling the trigger and am going to replace the Q-Jet with the Holley 6210 that I have. I will rebuild it, but I am concerned about the factory specs. The primary jets are 62s with a 25 squirter and the secondaries are 83 with a 37 squirter. Do you think the secondaries are to big for an original 2bbl 350 that was changed to a 4bbl? I would think smaller jets and a smaller squirter for the secondaries.Your thoughts?

Hey all, I need to replace my rear bumper on my 70. I have been looking and found several companies that sell them. I want a good quality one so do I go with Goodmark, AMD, Sherman, etc.? Which one should I go with as far as quality and good fit. I do show the car so I need it to look good and be correct. Thanks, in advance, for your input and opinions.

Leghome, I replaced the pump with a new AC and it is still just as bad. It is not holding the fuel from the pump to the carb. I am lost on what to do other than pull the tank and replace all the rubber hoses.

All, I have an update and need some help. First off, I have not replaced the Q-Jet with the Holley just yet. I did remove it and did some tests and proved it is not leaking fuel from the jet ports on the underside. Due to my findings, I replaced the fuel pump as the original was still on the on the engine. After replacing it I am still having initial start up issues after the car has sat overnight. There is no fuel in the bowl or the fuel line from the pump to the carb. I have a check ball fuel filter in the carb and have read where the heat of the engine can evaporate the fuel in the bowl. That being said, how am I losing fuel from the pump to the carb? Could there be an issue between the pump and the tank? Once the car gets fuel to the bowl it will start the first turn of the key for the rest of the day. Any ideas or opinions are greatly appreciated. I don't want to drive it because it takes so long to get it started in the mornings. It cannot be good for the engine to turn over for so long before it starts. Thanks for your help in advance.

Hey all, I rebuilt my Q-Jet and thought I sealed the ports on the bottom of the bowl. Well, I obviously did not do a very good job as the bowl empties out in about a 24 hour period and takes forever to refill to get the car started. I have a 6210 Holley that I have had a few people tell me was a great replacement for the Q-Jet. Just want to get some opinions on it. The engine, as I recently found out, is the original 2bbl engine that was converted to a factory 4bbl set up. So, it has an original late 69 4bbl Q-Jet that has been rebuilt, on a 70 part number intake manifold, but the heads are 70 2bbl heads. Would the Holley be a better choice? It is 650 cfm compared to the 750 cfm of the Q-Jet. My concern is the Holley 6210 is a double pumper. It is a spread bore and it looks like the factory choke rod of the Q-jet will fit without any issues. Let me know your thoughts. This engine only has 61k miles on it.

Thanks Bruce. I have done some of that but not all. I will conduct those test to isolate the problem. I am hoping it is a grounding issue.

Thanks for the input Doug. It was doing it when I bought the car last year. I did undo the sending unit ground wire from the body and wire brushed it and the body. I reattached it and went and put some gas in it. It did not seem to bounce as bad and I did not notice the headlights flickering. Tomorrow I may undo the ground wire again and clean the body with some sand paper to get a cleaner surface. Hopefully it is just a ground. I would hate to drop the tank, replace the sending unit, put it all back, and end up having the same problem.

Alright All, I tried a search and read a lot about fuel gauges that go past the full mark regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank, gauges that do not work at all etc., but I did not find anything talking about my problem. My gauge is reading the fuel level but the needle is bouncing. Not much, probably one tick mark back and forth. Also, at night when the headlights are on, when it bounces the lights dim slightly. I thought maybe the sending unit could be bad but I confirmed that the sending unit was replaced a few years ago. Any ideas what this could be if it is not the sending unit? I am not opposed to replacing the sending unit as I really thought this was the problem. However, when I went underneath to look around I saw that the metal tubing coming from the sending unit looked new. I went through the receipts I got with the car and sure enough the sending unit was replaced 1800 miles ago. Any ideas what to check? Thanks in advance for your input. Chuck

That is it exactly. Thanks. I assume most paint shops would sell the correct paint/dye needed to paint the plastic the correct color I need it to be?

Does anyone know of any vendor that makes the plastic covers that go over the shoulder belt mount up on the roof above the door? Thanks Chuck