o_rod

Progress so far... Enjoying it as I wrench it...

Gonna call this week,I looked into his services and you never know, it might make me happy with my camel humps.

While I would love to use a roller type it just isn't in the budget. I've always used diesel oil and a quart of break in oil during oil changes and never seen any ill effects of using a flat tappet. I totally understand the benefits, but I'd put that cash towards some aluminum heads first.

Hey guys, I'd like to toss in a new camshaft/lifters/double roller chain as I feel my exisitng cam isn't taking advantage of my current mods and don't know the history of the timing chain. Going to stay with a hydraulic flat tappet, engine is a 355, 10:1, 461 heads, 4.11 gears, 3500 stall, th350 and a 28" rear tire. I'd like to shift the power band up a bit to take advantage of my gear and stall. I was looking at the lunati voodoo 60104 or the comp cams big mutha thumpr. These are big aggressive grinds, would it be too much for my double hump heads? any recommendations?

So I got the fender back in its proper place, and I definitely need to move the door back about a 1/4 of an inch. Do i have to take off the fender to adjust the door hinges? The bolts seem awfully awkward to get to.

Looks like money well spent... nice idea on the side markers too! My monte isn't collectible, original or a high dollar car so I don't mind taking the welder to it. I have more time to throw at it than money. It'll be a learning experience but that's what it's all about for me.

That's beautiful, thanks for sharing. I broke a few of the clips for the side mouldings when I took them off and seen the replacements were like 100 bucks for a set, so that made my decision easier lol I'll smooth the sides and french in the side markers. I'll start there and see where that goes. My rear window trim is popping off and the window is leaking so that's going to take priority.

OK that's what I'll do. There's no sag in the hinges they look newer and no rust... I just got in from working on it and the bottom bolt that holds the fender down near the frame isn't even holding the fender. Looks like a passed jobber repair gone bad. I'm going to pull the fender and repair it. Thanks for the, don't adjust the door till last advice, would of sucked to find this out afterwards.

Hey, starting my body work project and first up is my passenger fender. When I open the passenger door, it hits the fender and rubs. It already chipped paint on the fender. To fix this would I adjust the doors hinges, if so, how? Also, anyone have a write up on how to remove the front fenders? Just want to see what has to come off first before the fender. I can see the bumper has to as well as headlight buckets, what about the inner fenders? Any hidden bolts? Thanks

Yup, the Nascarlo was a bit extreme, definitely not a model of motivation for me lol You are right, I have never seen a modified Monte that I didn't like, other than the lowrider scene, but that's just not my thing. If I had more confidence in my bodywork ability I'd shave and smooth it. But I really don't want it to turn out like a Nascarlo hack! I think that is going to be the limiting factor...

I just noticed all Monte's came with the wheel well trim. Don't have that, but that's a a minor cost. I'm not a big fan of chrome myself but I'll play around with that Idea. I suppose if I go with the side trim it would be fitting to do the wheel well trim as well.

Hey guys, this winter I'll be moving onto the body of the monte and I'm torn between full modification and a few personal touches... Idea #1 Re use the stock side trim but paint some color other than chrome. Bumpers will go a non gloss silver/grey, delete lower rocker chrome. This is the easiest option, stays somewhat stockish, less holes to weld. Haven't seen many people do this, can experiment with 2 tone paint below moulding and won't have to repaint car... Option #2 Remove all the side trim and chrome, fill and smooth it and French in side marker lights. Cut and smooth rain channel around window as well... this is obviously much more involved and far from stock. This is the look I'd love but not all that confident in my body work ability to make it 100% smooth. Seen a few guys do this and it looks phenomenal but if it doesn't go well there's no going back! http://i.imgur.com/VlM4XP6

Wow, thanks for all the info fellas! I'm in the garage right now with the distributor pulled. I'm putting in my Mallory locked unit for the last time. I could not get a proper timing curve with my GM unit. Anyways, I'll use the paper towel trick to see when exactly #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and how that relates to the timing mark. I lined up my timing mark on the balancer at 0 and I was at the compression TDC on 6 as per usual.

No, I understand how timing works. The firing order is correct, cylinder 1 spark plug wire is where it should be. When my timing mark on the balancer is at 0 degrees on the timing mark, #6 cylinder is at TDC not #1. It runs fine like this, I just rotate the distributor 180 degrees so it fires #6 first. What I'm curious about is why and when I'm using my timing light should I put the pickup on the 6th cylinder spark plug wire instead of 1?

I was told it was rebuilt. To what degree and what was done is unknown, is it possible the crank balancer is off?