Blackhawk

I had to rearrange my magnet collection after yesterday's RockAuto delivery.

Another solution would be to run a new power source from the horn relay or starter and trigger a few relays using the ignition spade.

If those are for a Chevelle the clips don't line up like the stock seal.

The outer is being made: https://metrommp.com/rear_vertical_quarter_window_sealouter_7072_monte_carlo_cutlass_supreme_alp_5002q/ The inner is not currently being reproduced, but I'm working on getting Metro to make them.

The kick panel speakers need to have a depth of less than 1-5/8" to not space the driver's side out or clearance the support behind it. My speakers have a 1-13/16" depth and I had to take a dead blow hammer to get the speaker to not hit in the back. I really recommend component speakers to put the tweeter up high, then you'll get the high notes up high and the midbass will be lower where it doesn't matter as much.

Summit and Jegs are both great on the customer service side, and one sometimes has parts that the other doesn't. I went through a few cowl induction hoods before getting one that was salvageable (horrible packaging for something so large and heavy), and I can only imagine how much Jegs paid shipping them back and forth.

Check the bolt on the firewall and see if it has a shim between the fender and firewall. I don't have the assembly manual in front of me but I think the gap between the fender and rocker should be around 1/8", what is yours at? Is the gap even from top to bottom or is one more than the other?

Tubular control arms can have a few advantages, but the cheap models typically only have the first: Weight reduction compared to stock stamped arms. Shorter length for tall spindles or tall ball joints. Increased positive caster for a more modern alignment and performance.

I'll check this weekend, but your bushings look like they're cranked down in comparison to what I remember mine looking like. They only require about 40 lb-ft.

They sell a variety of brackets to mount the valve. I'm not endorsing this site and have never used them, just giving an example. https://eastcoastchevelle.com/productview.php?cat=Brakes&id=1147102345&sectionPID=1

This fell to the backburner while a lot of other home projects were happening, but I dropped my original seals off at Metro Moulded today. I don't know what the timeline is for production but I'll update this thread when I know.

On my 71 emblem the red is covered by a clear plastic cover, keeping you from repainting it. I assume the new stuff is still pot metal.

https://koniksklassiks.com/product/71-monte-hood-emblem-assembly-1654/ Since these may no longer be available, has anybody restored their original emblem? The plating and metal on mine are good, but the paint under the clear plastic has faded. I bet a heat gun could loosen the adhesive without distorting the plastic.

https://www.opgi.com/chassis-suspension/steering-components/column-shift-back-drive-linkage/hardware-cross-shaft-to-frame-bracket-1969-72-a-body-column-shift-back-drive-s240695.html

Even the aftermarket companies that don't cater to the restoration crowd are moving away from CDs. Alpine doesn't have a receiver with a CD player unless it's a larger navigation unit that uses DVDs, and only half of Kenwood's receivers have CD capabilities. The nice thing with that is that the receivers are getting shorter so installation is easier.

Put a few miles on with my dad, the Chevelle was his first car in high school.

I finally got to fix the speed sensor and took it out for a few miles. Didn't go too far because the inner fenders aren't bolted to the fender lip, only on the ends and on top. No pictures because it's in spotty primer, so that'll be next.

I used short strand filler for the sail panel, specifically USC Duraglas.

https://www.rustreplace.com/home/1970-1972-monte-carlo

This may be a pain, but try getting everything warmed up before parking at home and check that you're actually getting voltage at the starter solenoid. You could test at the solenoid or where the purple wire comes out of the firewall bulkhead.

The offset shafts are more for fixing the effects of frame sag, where the upper control arm mounts are pulled toward each other. They affect the front and rear stud evenly, while you need to pull the rear of the control arm in to get positive caster. Anything more than 2-3 degrees of positive caster will probably be tough with stock control arms.

You can buy rebuilt hinges from Willie W. as well, I think he has a stock of cores so you wouldn't necessarily need to start with a pair. https://www.hoodhingerepair.com/

Spent the weekend tightening the exhaust, fixing fuel/brake fittings that were weeping, and aligned the hood while I wait for a cowl hood to show up undamaged. Took it out for a shakedown, but the vehicle speed sensor on the transmission isn't sending a good signal so it won't shift out of first. I'll swap the sensor in a few weeks and see if that fixes it, otherwise it's on to fixing the wiring. Should be the last thing to do before I can see how the LS swap does on the road! It also looks like I may not need any shims to get good camber values with the tall ball joints and Ridetech upper arms.

OPGI was always first on my list for finding items, and last for ordering. But I noticed that their prices are better than what they're providing Summit and Jegs with for the items that I was looking at, so I put in an order with them last week for the first time in a long time.

For headlights I'm running the OE7 from Dapper Lighting. I haven't had it out at night but it certainly brightens up the shop when testing it.