VT Monte

I haven't pulled the needles. I assumed being brand new they'd be clean but I'll add it to the list to check. Thanks for your help.

If I have the return line already there I'm unsure what to do about it if I go to a 2 port pump without a return on it. Despite my searching, I haven't seen any Holley pumps with a return on them. Maybe I'll keep looking. Even getting the car to start and run is getting tough. Even with the floats set to lower the level as much as I can I still get spurts of gas out of the overflow tubes.

I have a brand new Brawler 750cfm carb installed on top of a ZZ383 crate motor and I think it's pretty much set up with proper float levels. I'm having bad flooding issues now though with fuel squirting out the overflow tubes and wet spark plugs. I actually had this issue with the old 4150 carb the Brawler replaced. When I can get the car to idle the fuel pressure gauge dances all over from 5psi up to 8+. I'm thinking it's the mechanical fuel pump so I pull that and it's a AC Delco or similar 3 port style with the return to the tank. Since I'm already plumbed with that return but don't want to just put another cheap pump on there I'd like to replace it with a performance 2 port pump and then install a fuel pressure regulator with a return to make sure I'm not exceeding the 6psi that Holley carbs are happiest at. Is there are major problem with what I'm proposing? I think I can just do tank -> pump -> filter -> regulator -> one outlet to the fuel rail the other to the return. In my head it's a six one way, half dozen the other compared to what I have now but with the extra insurance of the regulator.

I have the original wiring diagram and everything is correct except for the random splicing in of this horn relay. I think the original intention was to keep the temperature light on the dash functional and that's the reason for the hack job. I don't really need it any more since I have gauges so you're probably right. Tomorrow if the heat doesn't kill me here in North Carolina I'm going to work on totally removing the extra bits and see where that puts me. Thanks and I'll keep you posted.

I'm hoping some of you can help me with my problem. I bought a 70 Monte from a gentleman who had two SPAL electric fans installed on the Alumitech radiator. I had a problem where they were turning on all the time even when cold and now my problem is they won't turn on at all. Whoever did the installing added a horn relay (Yeah, I dunno?) in addition to the two SPAL controllers. The wire from the temp switch is split, going to the horn relay and then split again to the two controllers. I thought the horn relay was the problem so I replaced it but now nothing will turn on, even after dropping the old relay back in. I've tested all the wires for continuity, it doesn't seem like I have any breaks or shorts. The grounds are all good too. Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks everyone.