FullMonte

Thanks to all who have provided help. Ian, you were right. After removing the calipers I noticed that the rubber on the brake lines are cracked in quite a few places and you can see the wire underneath. Any suggestions of where to get brake lines for these old cars? I was about to go visit the OPG website, but I recall hearing others say that they are not happy with that particular company.

Sorry....last message should read. "Thanks to you FGMCC members. Checked with NAPA and rotors (with hubs) are $66 each? Does that should about right? Also, is it standard practice to replace the wheel bearings?"

Thanks to you rotors (with hubs) are $66 each? Does that should about right? Also, is it standard practice to replace the wheel bearings? Thanks for the best wishes. In the middle of 6 months of chemo. Think of the worst case of the flu you ever had. No fun at all, but the car is really helping out!

Bringing this up again. Talked to a local tire dealer and he suggested Checker as the place to buy brake pads and rotors. $15 for the pads; $60 each for the rotors (with hubs). He said if I have the money he would recommend all Wagner parts, but they are about twice the cost. What have you used/suggest? I want to do this right and want to get it back on the road. Should I replace calipers as well?

Hello! Back again after a prolonged absence. Diagnosed with the "Big C" recently and oncologist suggested something other than chemo to focus on, so I am dusting off my 71 - good therapy! It has been sitting for nearly 2 years, and when I took it in for an inspection on Thursday, it was clear that the front brake pads and rotors need to be replaced (all original stuff - 70K original miles). While I have never done brakes before, figured it is a good time to learn and have heard that it is not that complex. True? Any directions you can point me, suggestions on parts or step-by-step instructions would be greatly appreciated. Members have helped me in the past, and I am sure all of your experience will help me know. Thanks! George

Now I'm really confused. Looked on the axle tube (driver's side - near the differential). Swear the numbers read 67890. No letters that I can see unless the "6" is a "G" but I don't think so. Any insights?

Big J (or anyone else) I inherited the car from my aunt who bought it new off the lot. She was a single, 3rd grade teacher who only drove it back and forth to school (55K miles in 32 years...I swear this is true). I can pretty much guarantee that she did not do anything to the car other than regularly scheduled maintenance, so the code on the axle tube may be the ticket. Any idea where is the code located exactly and how I decipher the letters/numbers? Thanks, George

Not sure where to put this question, so I will ask it here. In order to put in new gears, I need to know what I have in there now. Can I get that information from the VIN? All I know for sure is that it is a 71 with open differential and a 10 bolt cover. When I look at Summit they have all manner of options that include diameter, spline, teeth, etc., that just confuse me. Does anyone know what the specs are on the rear end and what I need to purchase in addition to the ring and pinion? Is everything I normally need included in the set? Thanks

Sad, sad news... I have been out of the country for a couple of weeks. Just jumped online and read the news about George Lines. What a blow. As I recall, he was the first person to respond to my first question when I joined the club a couple of years ago. Made me feel right at home. Luckily, my car is sporting a set of arm rest pads courtesy of George, so I will think of him everytime I sit in the car. As much as he gave to the club members, I am sure all of you contributed to the quality of his life too. He loved his Monte and loved talking to you about yours. George Knight

Bringing this up again. Still trying to change the back end from the open to a limited slip or posi and better street gears. Is this a good deal? http://www.drivetrainsuperstores.com/store_detail.asp?id=59 Thanks!

Any ideas on what I can expect to pay for the parts necessary to change to a posi and change gears at the same time? I am assuming everything will fit in the same housing.

Thanks for the info, Mike. I am thinking the 3.73 is what I will go with. More confusion... When I look in the Summit catalog, I see about four different references to GM 10-bolt 3.73 gears: 7.5/7.625", 27 spline pinion 8.20", B or P axle, 27 spline 8.20", 25 spline 8.50", 25 spline Is there a way to easily tell what I need? They also make a note regarding a 3.08 and lower carrier versus a 3.23 and higher carrier. What's that all about? Thanks! George

Funny thing about education... the more I learn, often, the more confused I get. Case in point: I've finished about all I will do with engine upgrade (new manifold, headers, 600 CFM carb and mild cam) and now ready to upgrade the rear end, but not sure which way to go. I have the 350 with regular transmission (300?). Not sure what the gears were/are, but I know it is not a posi. My goal is to make the car less of a highway cruiser and more of a "neighborhood bruiser." I seldom drive it over 20 miles at a time. Trouble is I don't know the first thing about the ratios that I should get. I hear everthing from 2:73 to 4:11. What were these cars equipped with in the first place, and what do you recommend for an upgrade to make it jump while still being capable of driving on the highway without winding it up too much. Also, is it possible to add a posi (this is a 10-bolt) or should I try to find happiness with one wheel? Thanks! George

Andreas, e Did you do the work yourself? My guess is you did. How much would I expect to pay to have someone else install everything? Also, were the new axles necessary? Georg

Next project (after suspension upgrade) is changing the rear end in my 71. All I know is that it is a 10-bolt and it came with the standard 350/2bbl set up. Beyond that, I;m clueless. I am assuming it is a non-posi, and I want to install a posi setup with gears that give me better juice off the line. I am sure about 100 of you have done this sort of thing. Any recommendations on what products to use, what ratios on the gears, and how much I can expect to spend? You folks are terrific...like automtive consultants to those of us who are challenged. Thanks! George