Stick

Wow, I'm sorry to hear you are down Robyn. I'm wishing you a speedy recovery and good thoughts to you and yours. Hang in there & get well soon.

I vote for the Cherry’s jubilee show. Looks like a lot of fun.

I have one. I run low 13’s on Drag Radials. Like you said its cheep insurance.

Routing of the upper radiator hose may need to be address.

Here are mine.

I remember.... "We Miss You George"

Looks great!!! Nice Job. What are the details on the tach source?

As it turns out the pump barely fits with a little elbow grease. I ended up using a Die grinder on the crossmember and making the clearance comfortable.

Has anyone else had any success with the Holley pump Clock recommends? I‘ve tried to install this model but it hits the frame.

Possibly the gear selector is not all the way in the park position. Check for binding in the shift linkage.

The numbers you are looking for are on the passengers’ side of the differential, on the forward facing surface. Use a scrubbing pad and some simple green to uncover the numbers.

Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by George Lines: There is a very small seal inside that part that the cable screws onto. You can remove that part to get to it. Have catch can under it because you will lose some fluid. That pastic vent is pressed in probably by hand. You may be able to make a hook to reach in and pull it out even if it comes out in pieces.</font> George, You hit the nail on the head on both accounts. A $1.54 and 5 minutes later and both are fixed. Thanks a bunch!

While pulling my motor and trans I broke the plastic vent on the top of the transmission. It’s broken off flush with casting. My question is how is this installed in the casting? Pressed, screwed etc...? Also, the speedometer cable housing has a small leak where the collar screws onto the trans. I can’t seem to get it tight enough. Is there a fix for this or do I need to replace the cable housing? ------------------ 1972 Custom Stick’s Monte

I’m confused now. The nut I’m talking about is the one that holds the yoke on the end of the pinion gear for the drive shaft u-joint. I did change the pinion seal and I had to use an impact wrench to take the nut off. Using the info above, I’m assuming I use the impact wrench to tighten the nut?

What is the spec. for the pinion nut on a 12 bolt rear end. Anyone?…Anyone? Thanks in advance Mike ------------------