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VE3HZZ

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About VE3HZZ

  • Birthday May 3

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oshawa, ON
  • Interests
    Cars, Bikes, Sci-Fi, Ham Radio, Electronics,movies,cars,bikes opps....
  • Legal Name
    Scott Harns
  • Occupation
    Customer Service/Sales

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  1. That is what I was puzzled on with this being a 71 was not sure but never noticed 2 wires on temperature sending units or oil ones either as they ground to the vehicle (and what more ground can you have then a giant hunk of iron)
  2. VE3HZZ

    fuel filter

    As others have said I would run one (as I have) from the fuel pump steel line into the carb inlet. I would think you can find a local parts store that has the GLASS filer with a replaceable paper element. This way you can see if it has fuel in it that likely the CARB does too (normally) or if the fuel pump is working (as you can see fuel) AND how dirty the filter and how yellow (yuck) the fuel is coming outta the tank Just make sure to use Stainless steel hose clamps and for good measure I'd double clamp them for the rubber hose as a precaution.... And if you cut the fuel line (steel) not a bad idea to FLARE (if you have one) both ends where the rubber fuel line goes on to help against any leaks (but not required just a suggestion). Scott
  3. Found this so thought I would chime in here (little late maybe!!) I have this Street Demon carb now on my 383 Stroker that I have a Edelbrock Air Gap Performer Intake on it. This thing out of the box was a plug n play operation. I mean no tuning no adjustments and it just RAN!!! It works quite well IMO. I was told to go with a Holly 750 etc etc. Well I saw the numbers on this one and some decent reviews. I liked the Google valve idea and the Air Gap already had some space for it. I wanted a decent street carb that can run on Pump gas and give some decent performance and some economy as well. This one seems to deliver it! Also has the Polimer fuel bowl to keep fuel temps about 20 degrees cooler and helps since I am forced to run ethanol watered down fuel here (except the ubber expensive Premium SHELL ULTRA. I have a few tweaks to do once I get my new Mufflers installed now next week...been running it for a couple weeks without doing anything to see where and what I want to adjust. It just seems to work!!! I like it better then the Edelbrock carbs and the Holley. It seems to have some of the benefits of the Q Jets which is sitting on my garage floor now) and none of the down side (so far time will tell). When they say you can run it out of the box I believe it...also if you are just swapping out say an Edelbrock or Holley I think the 30 min swap time is very doable and well worth the time (again my opinion). I also like being different.....everyone one runs a holley or edelbrock carb. This from what I have also read is not like the OLD Demon carbs some maybe lumping it with.... Take it on it's own merits...I am happy with my choice nuff said. Scott
  4. Yup those are long tube headers for sure I would suggest you not drop it at all IMO. Where you live have some rough roads and some curbs you'll drag them over if they are any lower. If you take it into the city any lower and you'll drag it on the street car rails on Queen St. Hey I made a pun and I wasn't even trying But if you go with shorter headers yes you can run into other issues I've heard. I actually have not seen (other then the cast iron stockers) short headers on a Monte. I am sure there are some out there, I just haven't seen any of any of the ones I've poked my head under the hood. But you may gain a couple inches doing so meaning the suspension drop would not change anything. Depends on what your after and how much $ you have to spend on it. I don't scrape going over speed bumps now but if I was an inch shorter I know i would even if I could not hear it over my exhaust Scott
  5. In reality I would think that if something is rubbing on the stock rocker covers (if they are?) then it is likely they have aftermarket rocker arms and maybe poli-locks. But if it has roller rocker arms the stock valve covers likely would not even fit unless you put on tall valve covers (as I had to do when I swapped the stock rocker arms for 1.6 Crane Roller Rockers a month ago. I had to go with TALL valve covers over the stock OEM as were to short and the rocker arms would hit the covers in several spots (depending on where the rocker was in it's travel). I put my new covers on with the PVC valve on the drivers side REAR and the oil plug (with a new chrome one) on the passenger side rear. Easier to fill oil without the booster getting in the say. I have seen a few BB cars with TALL rockers on and the same booster size we have on the Monte Carlo's and it fit. Now to remove the rockers you have to pull them out a bit and then slide them forward, but they do fit in there. The oil plug on that side is hassle to fill without a long tube funnel but it can be done it can be done on a SBC easier but still a pita. But on the SBC if there rubbing (and are stock) something ain't right but it is not which side the rockers are on as I had mine on both ways originally with no clearance issues, again until I changed to roller rockers then I did. Hope that helps. Scott I
  6. Yeah SAM tomorrow I am going to take it off (got side tracked last weekend) as I have a new o-ring. If I cannot get it to stop without the RTV (it worked last time but it was on a cast iron intake) I may try the belt sander IDEA. OR I can put on the OEM part in it's place. I have a HIGH FLOW 180 thermostat to put in it's place as well so we will see how that goes. I also need to check the check valve on the brake booster. I put on my new vacuum canister with this rebuild and still don't have a lot of extra vacuum after 1 stop at the light. It is idling about 750 in gear but I have not found a decent vacuum gauge to put on it to check (or rather can't find one around here that is not an arm and 2 legs for the $). I also have a mysterious transmission leak I need to solve too!!! does not seem to come from the usual suspects and the OIL PAN is dry no oil leaks found below the car (so far) and no coolant other then the thermostat housing (what is it with me and Thermostat housings?) Oh well it will all get sorted and then I can put tunes in my Monte and enjoy a nice LONG cruise with a nice health rumble and AC/DC cranked!!!! Scott
  7. Thanks Larry yes have been. Now going at the garage tomorrow and drained the air compressor and put in fresh synthetic oil tonight. Also need to plumb up my air dryer and then sand blast cabinet in the front corner. Lot of work to do before the COOL weather sets in for good. I want to be ready for winter to spend my nights and weekends there and get something done this winter Scott
  8. Just a question but since all this started have you put gas in it? Or have you been idling it it at home and not had to? If you have not open the gas cap. Also when you did the emergency brake cable was the car raised up in the back or the front? or both? Have you checked the fuel pump (mechanical) and that it is putting out at least 4 PSI at idle (you can hook up one if you have a rubber hose after the fuel pump. Also the fuel pump sits close the the frame and the steel line from the tank runs through the frame and on some there is a small rubber 3/8 line that goes from it into the fuel pump (on some cars) and if it is kinked (or maybe it did when you worked on it). It maybe more then 1 thing your dealing with now, but if everything ELSE was the same JUST BEFORE you did the Emergency brake and now THIS condition I would stick with a possible fuel problem. A 70 has a vented gas cap unless someone replaced it as there is no vent or return line on those. Maybe I am off here but just reading the posts and that you said it was fine JUST before you jacked it up and did some work suggests either A) you touched something else or moved it? or This was a coincidence and it was going to do this anyway. I have other ideas. but you don't want to start chasing your tail. I would say to check FIRST the FUEL and delivery system from front to back (as I think some of it you have already. Then ignition if the fuel is fine and in spec. The ignition would be check the points and if there set correctly, the distributor cap has no cracks or carbon track marks, the coil is also fine and fully connected. Then the vacuum lines are all connected and base plate of carb is not cracked or leaking (they get brittle after 40 years!!! Sorry maybe too much to check...start with the fuel and work from there would be my suggestion fwiw. Good luck keep us posted. Scott
  9. Thanks Larry means a lot. Still working out a few gremilns. The starter bolt (inbound) on my mini starter fell out between the park and Ultramar on Wed night and had to get it towed home. Meanwhile the Mustang was in the garage getting a new thermostat housing. needless to say late Saturday afternoon got it pushed into the garage and up on stands. Found the bolt GONE and reason starter had moved and not enaging the flywheel...OK...so new bolts checked the shim again and varoom!! All seems good again. Had time to install my blue dots in the rear today...small gasket leak on the new chrome water neck but a new o ring should fit that up. And need to find a tranny leak??? I suspect the dipstick tube!!! Always more to do, but yet getting it dialed in just get that all in order and should help with my heat issue (and a 180 thermostat). But the Mustang so far has not found any so fingers crossed for the next couple of days...
  10. I hear you get dimmer with age..er I mean the dimmer gets corroded and has to be lubbed A good electrical contact cleaner (sell it at CTC) will do the trick to keep it from that problem for many MOONS to come!!! Scott
  11. Just got in from the Garage. Been a long month...evenings and when I can weekends tearing down the top end and redoing the heads and putting new intake, carb, and all around clean up. Tonight about 11 pm I got all fluids filled, new (to me) mini GM starter wired up and vaccuum canister installed. Couple of cranks and few taps of the pedal to fill the fuel bowl and VAROOM!!! she started right up!!! I mean she ran pretty well for a lumpy cam!!! Turn the dizzy a few degrees counter clockwise to set base timing and she idled fine (something the old setup was not having much luck below 1300 RPM's!!! I checked the tach, ROCK SOLID at 900 or a slightly below (say 850), Put in gear and she was sitting idling fine at about 750 ish..That is without checking Hg or a light on it yet. Or adjusting the curb idle OR mixture screws..straight out of the box!!!! I think my BASE timing right now is about 12 degrees and I have the vaccumm line plugged so only mechanical. advance. Need to get a helper to let me know when she is at 3000 to see where my ALL in is so hope without any adjustments it is close to 32. I mean this BEAST (and she sound mean too) as it was even before I did these mods, would not idle worth a DAMN below 1200 or even that it would idle really high...I will post in a new thread what I did/ what I added and (more coming) what I found this time that I didn't know before. She's a keeper for sure now....I don't think the smile will be off my face all night...hope it is not sore in the morning Scott
  12. The 1220 to me looks like the work order number (maybe for that week or could be for that shift? The Box 10 to me looks like SCND MO DATE Meaning to me the MONTH is !2 the DAY is 13 and the 15 could be the 15th car on the line?? Just guessing based on the small picture I could make out. but this is a CUSTOMER ORDER so maybe the 15 relates to that? Nice to find a build date...my Flint built car does not have any But I just finished my motor tear down and re-assembly and just got in the house from the FIRST START...MAN WHAT A GREAT FEELING WHEN SHE ROARS TO LIFE AND WAKES THE NEIGHBOURHOOD!! Now to head over to that Austic kids Grandmas to let er rip for him and let that A HOLE neighbour know don't MESS with SPECIAL NEEDS or you will have a SPECIAL SPOT LIGHT ON YOU!!!! Good luck with the deciphering hope someone else has more/better insight. Regards Scott
  13. Where have you been buying fuel lately? Could be detonation or pinging under load from EL CRAPO GAS.... Or water even. If everything else checks out I'd suspect that... Just my .02 cents fwiw. Good Luck with it hope it is very minor. Regards Scott
  14. Yes I sure do hope to get it back on the road by the end of the month. I have this show Sunday and then next weekend I am away so couple of nights this week and not again till 2 weekends from now to get back at it (other then the odd night). Can't wait to have it done and this time to DRIVE IT for the REST of the SEASON everywhere and anywhere That is the hope.... See you Sunday bringing the wifie along for the day hope it is nice!!!! Scott
  15. Hey Larry, the group of us from the Oshawa Auto Aces will be there on Sunday. Sadly the Monte will not make an appearance as the top end is torn down for the new goodies. Stumbling block was having to wait an extra 2 days for the new harmonic balancer and time to do it. Looks like I will be down another week or so so have some other plans for the engine bay to get finished. Yes I will get pics shortly of the rebuild process..once I get the pan dropped and remove the timing cover to replace the gear/chain set. Hope to have it back together when I get back from my Trip to Toby the following weekend. Once it is up and running right it will see a LOT more road duty for cruising then it has for the past year See you on Sunday I will have the roadster out as it is before 93 the cut off date for the show....so I have something to park!!! LOL...hey it may be small and not British but it is a hotrod Scott
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