dbreese

10 bolt with the 3.55's would fit the bill. Years ago I had the factory 8.2 10 bolt upgraded the to 3.73 gears and a Eaton P-trak. I added Moser axles(c-clip style) and a heavy duty rear cover. I drag raced the car often on Hoosier Quick Time Pros and M/T drag radial and had the car in the mid 12's. Never an issue. Sold the rear and purchased a Moser 12 bolt with bolt in axles when I installed a new mill some 8 years ago. David

I went to a internal regulated alternator 5 or 6 years ago I also upgraded the wiring(heavier gauge0 and fusible link material since it was original to the car. I bought an adaptor from M&H electric that made removing the original external regulator and connecting to the original harness a plug a go. It has been a while but I want to say the alternator was a 100 amp unit. It was a great upgrade. David

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380457/overview/year/1972/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo I have great service from this radiator. It keeps my s/b cool regardless of the outside temps. Pretty much drop in and go. I run distilled water and water wetter. Don't think you can go wrong with any suggestions. David

Keith was great to work with. Glad I got my 3" with x-pipe when I did. Best fitting exhaust system I have ever owned. David

http://www.acdelete.com Easy install. Looks clean David

That car is a beast!!!! Great work Ryan. Thanks for sharing!

That is one slick Monte! A lot of attention to detail and fab work. Well done David

More shroud could help the problem. Those Mark 8 fans pull a lot of air. Are you running a under drive pulley on your water pump? I have a northern aluminum radiator, stewart stage II aluminum water pump, a B&M stacked plate transmission cooler, that is plumbed through the radiators transmission cooler, along with a stock shroud and factory 7 blade fan with a hayden 2474 fan clutch and a 160 t-stat. All with factory diameter pulleys. I know it may seem archaic/ old school. but my 414 s/b never overheats. I have a 4900 stall converter and the fluid (amsoil synthetic) is clean and you can grab the hard lines with your bare hand. after a long drive and yep they are warm but not blistering hot. Hope ya get it figured out. David

Hey Mike, Good to hear from you! Not to upset. Been busy with the new part time business and I haven't' had a chance to pull the v/c's or the intake. Hope you are having a great race season. David

I have the auto meter dual pod mount. I have my tach, and fuel pressure gauge mounted. Shift light is mounted at the top of the a-pillar. Clean install. David

I will fill the radiator leave the cap off and start the engine. You can also jack the front end up just a bit. will the engine is running. Make sure you have water handy as the level will drop when an air pocket is released and you need to fill that void with fluid. I also drill a small hole in the thermostat flange( 3/16") that will also aid in alleviating air pockets. David

Make sure your fan clutch is in working. If not replace it with a Hayden 2474. Make sure you don't have any air pockets in the cooling system. This can happen when replacing cooling system components. David

Man Ryan ya got some serious fabrication skills. Looking really good. It is always good when you can see a little light at the end of the tunnel and know it ain't the train coming. LOL Keep us posted. David

Just came back across this thread. Good Lawd that engine makes a lotta grunt at a very usable RPM. Great combo you have put together!!! Super great HP numbers too. Outta be dependable but will provide an ear to ear smile when ya whack the loud pedal!! David

Looking back I should have went with .904 body lifter. There is always trade-offs for street/strip engines. The engine did have good oil pressure when I shut it off @ 40 psi hot 1500 rpm idle. David