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1970 Maintenance Manual


Droff

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I need a 1970 maintenance manual and I'm looking for suggestions on which one to go with, either Haynes or Chilton's? If there is another that is better or more specific, that's fine too.

Thanks.

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Drew,

I have both of them. One reason is there is some things in one that isn't in the other one. You can never have TOO MUCH reference material. I would also like to suggest a year specific GM Assembly Manual and wiring manual, again, you can never have too much information.

Rob

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Rob, you're probably right on the reference material.

Aaron - Is that a GM manual or something different?

 

Thanks.

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Drew,

 

I also use the 1970 Chassis SERVICE Manual that Aaron referenced. If you are doing something more involved like rebuilding a major component, you may also benefit from the 1970 Chassis OVERHAUL manual. And, as Rob already mentioned, the 1970 Factory Assembly Instruction Manual is a wonderful source of information, especially original part numbers.

 

All three are available on eBay. Following are links to current listings. Note that both new and used copies are available for one or more of these:

 

1970 Chassis Service Manual

 

1970 Chassis Overhaul Manual

 

1970 Factory Assembly Instruction Manual

 

I've done a lot of maintenance and upgrade work on my two '70s in the past four years and have never found the need to use any other reference than these three books. Good luck.

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Thanks for the links Dennis, that's awesome.

I need to do some front end work but have little idea on nomenclature of everything, other than a 'bushing' or a ball joint.

 

You guys have some nice looking rides.

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Drew,

 

I checked my copy of the 1970 Chassis Service Manual and found that front suspension repair is cover rather well in Section 3. Unfortunately, GM service facilities used a lot of very specialized tools for this work but you can get by without most of them by using other techniques.

 

Also, I made a photo journal of my project to rebuild the front suspension of my blue '70 Monte three years ago. I did a basic stock rebuild not a performance suspension upgrade. You can at least get an idea of what is involved by going through my photo journal at the following link: Front Suspension Rebuild

 

NOTE: You will need to click on the first photo to enlarge it and then scroll down enough to read the caption below the photo since all of the comments and instructions are in the captions. Clicking anywhere on the photo should bring up the next photo in sequence.

 

BTW, while you are rebuilding your front suspension is a great time to replace your front wheel bearings and your disc brake pads and rotors (if necessary). Here is another link to a photo journal on Replacing Front Wheel Bearings

 

Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck

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Pictures are primo Dennis, thanks. That's pretty much what I need to do on the front, just a matter of starting and doing. I did run across this kit online, Front End. Are the prices reasonable for something along these lines?

 

I did just replace the calipers and the flexible brake lines that are mounted to the frame and attach to the calipers. I now have some solid brakes. I plan on new rotors, bearings and pads at some point as well, probably when I work on the overall front end.

 

The rotors are a bit odd, both sides have a pretty decent sized groove right in the middle of the rotor, in the same place and same size, front and back. That has to be a manufactured groove, ever seen that? I haven't. Otherwise, the rotors are decent.

 

As far as stripping parts, I have limited work space and capabilities, what did you use? I think a chemical spray (grease remover/engine cleaner) and wash would be a bit tough to do in my driveway.

 

Thanks for all the info.

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I was told by a good mechanic that that groove was to keep heat from building as fast. I do not know if that is true but it does make some sense.

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Hi, Drew,

 

The front end rebuild kit you have selected from OPGI features USA-made Moog parts and is a reasonable buy when on sale. You can get cheaper kits on eBay, of course, but they are made up with off-shore parts from China, India and elsewhere.

 

I ordered that exact kit from OPGI last spring and was planning to install it on my '70 SS but never found the time last summer. All of those parts plus others are stacked on shelves in my garage awaiting installation this summer. The OPGI kit is fairly complete but it does NOT contain any control arm bumper stops so you will need to order those separately. You can also order them from OPGI as a complete kit of two upper bumpers and two lower bumpers for $39.95 which essentially gives you the uppers free compared to individual prices (lowers are $19.99 each and uppers are $9.99 each). Here's a link to the comlete bumper kit from OPGI, although you may be able to find them elsewhere, as well.

 

Now is also a good time to order new shocks if your current shocks are original or need replacing.

 

Stripping 40+ years of road grime off the control arms, spindles, brake drums, calipers, dust covers, etc is a royal PITA - my least favorite part of the project. The first time I did a lot of stripping with solvent, a parts bursh and a putty knife over a large oil catch pan in the vacant lot next door. Fortunately, I ran into very little rust but I used a large angle grinder with a wire brush cup on the rusted areas I did find. This summer I am going to use the commercial parts washing tub I picked up at a bankruptcy auction for $70. It will still be a lot of work but hopefull not so messy.

 

BTW, if you are planning to coat parts with POR15 or spray paint them, I've learned to always give those parts a final thorough washing in very hot water with plenty of Dawn dishwashing soap followed by a thorough drying and only clean glove handling after that. Maybe I just haven't found the right degreasing agent but any solvent I've ever used still leaves a thin film of something on the metal that paint does not like. Oily fingerprints have the same effect, of course.

 

Good luck with your project.

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Thanks for the info Dennis. I ran across another front end kit a little cheaper than the OPGI kit but haven't identified if all the parts being supplied are equivalent. I hadn't considered eBay though.

 

I've got an angle grinder, just need to pick up a few wire brushes and should be in business, although it may be small business. There is a TON of grime on the front end parts, that's going to be a bear. I know I don't have the original shocks, but still may replace them.

 

Speaking of painting, POR15 sounds like a rust inhibitor once it is applied, but would getting the crap off the metal, cleaned up and then using a rattle can primer and paint be sufficient, or just a preference? As far as paint, anything typical as in flat, semi-gloss, etc? Enamel paint? I'm just talking frame and under the hood parts here and there.

 

These may be pretty simple questions overall, but I've not really done this type of work before, trying to avoid a few eyerolls.

Thanks again.

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The POR will hold up much better than the rattle cans or most other surface protectors. If you dont mind spending the extra bucks it may be theway to go.

Rob

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Drew,

 

The POR15 product I was referring to is their Rust Preventative Paint. POR15 does offer other products for stripping (Marine-Clean), surface prep (Metal-Ready) and topcoating (Blackcote or Chassiscoat Black). All of their products are a bit pricey but they work well and last longer than spray paint.

 

Note that surfaces painted with POR15 Rust Preventative Paint should not be exposed to much UV light so you need to paint over or topcoat any surface that will be exposed to direct or indirect sunlight. Because they are out of direct sunlight, I didn't topcoat my suspension parts after painting them with black semigloss POR15 but you certainly can. My personal preference for painting most undercarriage and engine compartment components is either semi-gloss or satin black or metal-look finishes like 417 stainless steel or Cast Blast.

 

If you have never used POR15 paint, be aware that normal solvents don't even phase it. You need to get POR15 special solvent to remove the stuff if you get it on yourself or anything else unintentionally. Otherwise, you will be wearing it for at least three weeks. Also, it will almost weld things together so treat it like you're painting with liquid J-B Weld.

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I'm not too worried about a stock or original look really, just want it looking good is all. I know the POR15 isn't all that inexpensive, like most everything else.

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Not cheap but good stuff. It covers well so you don't need to buy a lot for a project like this. Foam brushes work well for applying it, or you can spray it. As said earlier, be careful or you will be wearing it for a while. Gloves and long sleeves help. Don't try to get all the rust off. It doesn't work well on bare steel. If you are going to paint over it, let it dry until there is just a light drag feeling when running a finger over it. Then you can use any paint/primer to cover it. Do it too soon and it will wrinkle. Do it too late and the only paint that will stick without sanding is their brand.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been seeing references to either an oval or round control arm bushing, thus different kits. Is this something I just need to look at on te car to determine, or does something else identify which type I have, like year or build?

 

Also, any shock recommendations? I'm just going stock on the car for the most part but don't typically buy too many shocks..

Thanks.

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Drew, I've never found a sure-fire year/model reference for lower control arm bushings although one may exist. Both of my '70's have the round type. Best to take a look to be sure - it's not hard to do.

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My understanding to the round vs oval lower control arm bushing issue, is the oval is the second design for the control. It has nothing to do with big block or small block it was a design improvement that GM did. My 70 has oval did a 71 that had oval and my 72 had oval.

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Robert, were all 3 of yours small blocks from the factory?

 

Out of the 6 first gen Montes or Monte frames I've owned, 2 were big block cars and 4 were small block. The '70 and '71 big blocks had round rear bushings in the front control arms, and in the '71 and '72 small block cars they were oval. I haven't checked a '70 small block car or a '72 big block. If your car came from the factory with a small block in it, chances are good it has the oval bushing in the rear of the front control arms. All used round in the front of the arm.

 

It's easy to check.

 

Dan

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