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Hi all. I'm looking for suggestions from the drag racers out there (Which I am not, but hope to be). My 72 ran a 12.15 @ 108 1.473 60' easing into the gas from idle and spraying it in 2nd gear. When I loaded the converter and eased into it with spray at WOT it spun and my run was 13.47 @ 106 2.467 60 ft. I have street tires and umi non adjustable bars. Obviously I need to start at idle but I would like to get this thing into the 11s. Any help would be great!!

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Hi Jason,

 

1.47 is a wicked quick 60' on street tires. Heck my best 60 was 1.59 an et's are in my sig. You can try a set of Mickey Thompson Street Drag Radials (275/60-15 seems like a popular choice and what I use).

 

Give some specs on the engine and what rear gear and converter stall you have.

 

Shocks and springs make a big difference on how a car hooks and leaves.

 

David

 

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355 sbc 230 238 @ 50 530 lift, bowtie vortec small port head, 10:1 comp, 750 holly vacuum, rpm intake, all roller and forged, 150 nos.

 

700r4 custom, 3400 stall, shift at 6000 rpm

 

3.73 posi

 

stock replacement rear springs and shocks

 

245 75 17 radials

thanks

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Engine combo looks nice and the converter and cam IMHO match well. Sticky tires and you will be in the high 11's with no other changes. 12.15 is close. You are almost there on street tires. Taking weight off especially the hood could net ya another .10. Work on the 60' and with a 150 shot you could very well go deep into the 11's.

 

Here is a crappy photo of a launch of may old heap.

 

montelaunch2013_zps1a45cdd0.jpg

 

David

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First off, if by crappy pic in your old heap you mean nice pic of your awesome car then...

 

I am quickly learning the importance of keeping time slips.

 

I am going to try to get to Maple Grove in the next week or two to try this out and see what happens. any of you go there on a regular basis? Numedia is the next closest to me.

 

Lastly, Thanks for the words of encouragement.

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David, Do you have any pics of what is going on under your hood?

 

 

100_1518_zps9c62ec7c.jpg

 

414 s/b ,10.5:1 Callies Compstar crank 3.875 stroke, Eagle Rods 5.85 length, JE forged pistons Motown II 400 Block. Cam motion solid roller tight lash cam .688 in/ 254 dur @ .050 .631 ex 263 dur@ .050 on a 110 lsa. A well worked over Edelbrock Vic Jr intake ( so I could keep the stock hood) Jesel sportsman shaft rockers. Profiler aluminum 210 heads with a little work 2.08 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust.valves. PAC 1243 springs with titanium retainers. REV valves. Trend tapered 7/16" pushrods. Carb is a custom Pro Systems 950. MSD ignition 6AL box and a 85551 distributor locked out at 35 degrees. Runs on pump premium. Made 574 hp @6500 rpm and 520 ft/lbs@ 5100 of torque on the engine dynamometer.

 

David

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Get rid of the street tires! Drag radials will really help, regular slicks would help more.

Soften the front, get some 90/10 shocks they are fairly inexpensive. Loosen the control arm bolts so the bushings pivot instead of reacting on the rubber. Disconnect the front sway bar at the track.

You are going to have to play with the launch, you will not be able to tell anything until you get a sticky tire. With the tire you have I probably would not spray until it starts to recover from the 1-2 shift.

I know I seem to be stressing tire a lot, But that is the next step before any real suspension tuning. I leave off of a trans brake. I am on the two step at 3400 when I leave the converter spikes to 5500 and I shift at 7000. That is on a 28/10.5 MT slick

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Thank for the advise Mike. It looks like a sticky tire is next for me. Is there a simplified nhra rule "chart" or something? I was looking at the rule book and its not so black and white...

I would like to have all I need on the car and myself (safety) plus some when I do get this figured out. Thanks again!

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Good advise Mike. Some other things to consider;

 

Driveshaft loop just in case something lets go you don't destroy the floorpan of that beautiful Monte ya have. Helmet that meets current NHRA (SA2010) rules and since you are spraying a fire jacket sfi 3-2a/1 as a minimum sfi 3-5a/2 would be better. Fire extinguisher mounted to where you can reach it. I have a Bell Sport Full Face Helmet with Nomex lining and a full DJ racing 3-5a/2 race jacket, pants, gloves and neck collar and shoes. I have a my extinguisher mounted to a bracket that is bolted to the existing front seat bracket studs drivers side.

 

You can never be to safe. I had a tech guy check me in one time at a track and he kinda half chuckled cause of my fire suit. I told him that you can burn to death just as quick in a low 11 second car as you could a 7 second car. He agreed. LOL

 

Just more food for thought.

 

David

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Listen to Dave, I wear the same stuff. Drive shaft loop is real important. The majority of failures come at speed not launch, when the shaft reaches its critical rotational speed.

Roll bar at 11.50!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got my 90/10 front shocks, m/t ets should be here today. installed a umi drive shaft loop, fire extinguisher installed, going to the strip on the 24th...

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  • 2 weeks later...

My day at the drag strip...

First off, I didn't break anything.

I went 12.20 at 112 all day, 1.8 60 ft. Between the drag radials and shocks I could leave the line with no spin. Had a great time.

 

Now just have to figure out how to loose a second or so...

 

Again, Thanks for all of the help.

 

IMG_5756.jpeg

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