Droff Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I've not worked on drum brakes before so unsure on what needs to be done. The rear is an unknown at the moment, just figured since I did the front and will be doing a booster and master cylinder replacement, I might as well tackle the drums. Is it typical to replace the wheel cylinders or inspect first and then decide? I'm going with the assumption right now that they are the originals. I hadn't considered replacing the drums themselves but that's a possibility too. I haven't tore into anything yet, just thinking about it, so any suggestions are appreciated. I've done several searches and found some info as well. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Doing back drum brakes is not bad at all, I would suggest replacing wheel cylinders because there pretty cheep but the lines could be rusted so you may have that snowball we speak about so often. Also suggest replacing the hardware when you do them. Check the drums if theres any question replace them, again there really not that expensive. Some of them parts could be 40+ years old better to be safe than sorry. Mine are working fine for now but when I do them it will all be replaced on rear and front will remain mostly stock with upgraded drilled and slotted rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 I was looking at a brake drum kit from Autozone and there are two, one is an all in one kit and the other is a self adjusting kit. Which kit would I need? All In One - http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-drum-all-in-one-kit-rear/chevrolet/monte-carlo/1970/8-cylinders-5-7l-4bl-ohv Self Adjusting - http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-drum-self-adjusting-kit-rear/chevrolet/monte-carlo/1970/8-cylinders-5-7l-4bl-ohv Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 If it was me i would change both but if the self adjuster moves freely and cleans up ok you could reuse it but deffinitly want to change return springs and hold down parts. Remember to lube any parts that move, and a small dab of lube on the backing plates where the shoes rub on them. Try and keep the shoes as clean as possable sanding them os a last resort. Also be carefull taking it apart that dust could contain asbestos, DONT BREATH IT IN !!! Safety first my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostnFound Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I also suggest taking photos first before you disassemble them unless you have both rear wheels off at the same time and can refer to one when assembling the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 And remember short shoe to the front, And make sure parking brake cables are working properly. Theres so much to remember it just becomes second nature after doing a few hundred of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 It may be a dumb question, but how is the best way to make sure the parking brake is working correctly? Just a few minutes ago I got one of the drums banged off the car, lots of rust and it doesn't look like anything has been to the rear at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Droff........lots of good tips posted here. Take a photos and a little bit of patience. When I did mine last year, it took 2+ hrs to get one of the drums off as a spring had let loose and would allow the drum to slide off due to the groove it had cut into the drum. Clean/paint/lube the correct parts and you'll be good to go for years.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Once you get drums off pull on the cables and see if they move freely, Then if so push the pedal down and see if they all move properly and release all the way. The cable may need adjustment also spray the adjuster nut down good and clean it up with a wire brush also. Spray it down good with brake cleaner or even water to get rid of that dust. A mask isnt a bad idea eather untill all that dust is gone and while cleaning up the backing plates too. You dont want to breath that dust or rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 I agree, lots of good info to keep in mind while I'm doing this. I had to use a hammer and cold chisel to loosen up the drum and get it off, deadblow hammer helped as well. It went quicker than expected though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Looks to me like those brakes may be in good working order. The shoes have obviously been replaced and have quite a bit of life left in them. The internal parts are naturally rusty but the entire assembly is pretty dry and relatively clean. I also see no evidence of axle seal leakage. Nothing wrong with completely refurbishing 44 year old brakes, of course, but those drum brakes don't look as bad as many that age. It's a great feeling to have everything cleaned, painted and updated with new parts but I doubt you will feel much difference in performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Well if things look like they're decent I can just clean it up real good and go from there, NOT spending more money than I need to won't be disappointing. I need to change the booster and master cylinder so I thought I should look into the rear brakes as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Yea they don't look that bad just make sure everything is in good working condition . Clean lube and adjust and your back in business . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Any specific lube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 If you haven't already replaced your booster and master cylinder, you might be interested in the photo journal of such a project at the following web address: http//:s912photobucket.com/user/dbengtson4/library/1970%20Monte%20Carlo%20454SS/Replacing%20Power%20Brake%20Booster%20and%20Master%20Cylinder?sort=6&page=1 Sorry I was unable to make that into a link - none of that works for me on this new system. I can't even paste anything in from the clipboard. You actually have several options for replacement but if you decide to go with a rebuilt unit rather than a new or reproduction assembly, you can still make it look good with some careful painting. Unless your current unit is failing (as mine was), you can even rebuild your master cylinder yourself (be sure to specify and buy the correct kit for your unit) and you can easily renew the appearance of your booster with various painting techniques (example in photo journal above). The booster and master cylinder seem to catch the eye as much as anything under the hood so having that assembly looking good is important if you go to any shows. You may know that GM built Montes with both Delco and Bendix master cylinders. They are NOT interchangeable as they require different length actuator rods so be sure you get a matched assembly and the correct rod if you decide to change from one brand to the other. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 I've always used silicone paste it works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Those brakes look real good to me also. I would take a screwdriver and pull the shoes away from the backing plate and apply some silicone lube at the pads where the shoe rides on the backing plate. Also since you had to use a hammer and chisel to remove the drum I would replace the drums. They could be warped from all the hitting on them. Before you install the drums clean the axle flange of the rust and apply some grease on it. Just a thin coat of chassis grease is good. Just helps it from rusting back on again. As Steve said....after doing this job hundreds of times it all becomes second nature. Dennis, I copied and pasted that link and it's not working. I saw you other post on that subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Thanks for the link Dennis, I'd already looked it over, along with you suspension guide, all have been a big help. I have yet to verify everything is in working condition but it's all moveable at this point, nothing is stuck. I've got one side cleaned and ready to get back together - after lubed/painted. I didn't have to beat on the drum too much so I don't think I did any damage to it but it does appear to have a decent groove in it so a replacement is probably a better idea overall. I'm hoping the driver side looks as good. The booster and master cylinder should arrive today, they're matched together as a unit so I don't think I'll have an issue with assembly/installation. The bad news is now we're in the low 30's with 20-30 mph winds and my work area is my driveway.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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