cbolt Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I bought a kit from Jegs. Looks just like The Right Stuff components. The procedure for adjusting the parking brake is to work the e-brake pedal repeatedly until the piston comes out enough to prevent the wheels from turning. So my question is for you guys who have done this before... how many pumps does it take already? I have been working the pedal for countless hours (Okay, maybe an hour all together) and it doesn't seem to be making a huge difference. Yes, the piston is moving but no, it hasn't adjusted itself to function properly yet. As of right now, that is my biggest issue. Once I get the pistons close I can finish bleeding the system... Tick, tock, tick, tock... Turkey run is this month.... Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Not sure what system you have but on the stock system (newer models) it only takes a few pumps. I would finish bleeding the system completly and check adjustment on the cables. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daryl Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 My instuction read that if the ratcheting method didn't work, remove the cable bracket and use a wrench to move the puck/pad out against the rotor. I had to do this on one of mine. Go to 6:40 on the video and it explanes what to do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJpC0W6CP78 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 When you did your adjustment via the nut, did fluid leak out? Were you able to return the nut to its original position in order to cure the leak? When I made my adjustment, the brake fluid began leaking from around the nut and as I was turning it, the nut goes into the caliper body.... is that temporary just to move the piston or what? I stopped due to the leaking and didn't really notice whether or not the piston moved any. Once the nut gets recessed it is difficult to turn.... I am telling you this project has fought me every step of the way. Mr. Murphy is working overtime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 That seems to be a on going problem with that conversion. If it is Right Stuff call their Tech Dept. or check out their web site. They have a video. They are real helpful. Good Luck. Those rear calipers are 1978 Caddy Eldorado. I have the set up but they are still in the boxes. Oh one thing. I remember that the bleeders should be looking down. Could be wrong. Memory is shot. LOL. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daryl Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 When I installed my set the system was dry. The "adjuster shaft" did go in as yours did. If I remember correctly I put a flat washer on it so it would only go in so far. I kept turning until the pad was tight on the rotor then went the opposite direction and the puck stayed out, reassembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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