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400 sbc vs 10 bolt


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welcome to the board im not one of the engine guys so i cant anwser but im in cincy and have a 70 monte welcome to the board.

 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mac13:

I'm new to the forum and new to Montes and need to know how far I can go with HP/torque wit a 10 bolt rearend</font>

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I just bought a 71 about a month ago and had some questions

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KPMONTECARLO:

welcome to the board im not one of the engine guys so i cant anwser but im in cincy and have a 70 monte welcome to the board.

 

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hey there...

 

I am not sure but a 10 bolt should take at least 400 hp possible 550 as long as it is shimed right and the case is straight from the get go but rice racing would know far better than i would on that so see what he says.

 

alex

 

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alex

 

gotta love a house full of parts soon i will be able to assemble it in my house......

http://www.geocities.com/alexs72fgmc

1985 monte carlo ss

1972 monte carlo

1971 monte carlo "parts car"

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Do you know what section he is in?

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by alex's72fgmc:

hey there...

 

I am not sure but a 10 bolt should take at least 400 hp possible 550 as long as it is shimed right and the case is straight from the get go but rice racing would know far better than i would on that so see what he says.

 

alex

 

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Oh and thanks for the info to I need all the help I can get

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mac13:

Do you know what section he is in? </font>

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My former '72 Z-28 came stock with a 10 bolt, the 427/435 vette motor I put in it did not break it. Although I never tried it with slicks.

 

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1944 GPW Army Jeep

1964 Buick Riviera- Still For Sale

1970 Monte Carlo

1977 M882

 

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Well a 12 bolt is always a better choice. But there are 2 types of 10 bolts in our cars. There is the regular GM 10 bolt and a BOP Pontiac 10 bolt. I would not invest a lot of money into the GM 10 bolt however they are tougher than you think. Now the Pontiac 10 bolt is a different story. They are strong as a mountain. I have had my BOP 10 bolt in my car for 6 plus years. It has thousands of passes on it and regular street use. The only thing is the BOP 10 bolt is expensive to build. But I could not find a cheap 12 bolt so I built the 10. That's my 2 cents. Monte

 

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70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

 

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Are there 12 bolts out there that are a direct fit or do I need to get one and modify it

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Monte:

Well a 12 bolt is always a better choice. But there are 2 types of 10 bolts in our cars. There is the regular GM 10 bolt and a BOP Pontiac 10 bolt. I would not invest a lot of money into the GM 10 bolt however they are tougher than you think. Now the Pontiac 10 bolt is a different story. They are strong as a mountain. I have had my BOP 10 bolt in my car for 6 plus years. It has thousands of passes on it and regular street use. The only thing is the BOP 10 bolt is expensive to build. But I could not find a cheap 12 bolt so I built the 10. That's my 2 cents. Monte

 

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how do you tell the difference between a pontiac 10 bolt rear and a regular, I have seen 2 different types and im wondering which one is which

 

------------------

  • 69 custom camper/cst 10
  • 70 monte carlo
  • 73 chevelle 4 door

    deluxe"kermit": no carpet(rubber floor) no floor, no trunk still drives (D.Ot'd finally)

  • 74 cheyenne super 20 454 SOLD frown
  • 77 fully loaded silverado

    that my Grandpa gave me

  • 1980 BMW 320i(at least it isnt Japanese)
  • 1981 ford f150 4x4
  • 1972 Honda ct 90 trailbike

Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!)

ek_3.jpg

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Rice racing is in the engine forum quite a bit but he has been pretty busy lately.

 

 

the tempest 10 bolt "pontiac" has a notch out on both sides by the axle tubes in the diff cover. the other 10 bolt has the upside down v on the diff cover. Myself and charlie are doing some thinking on this very subject along with some other stuff right now.

 

alex

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Alex is right the BOP 10 bolt has 2 1/2 moon shapes cut out of the rear cover on each side by the axle tubes. Chevelle rear ends work in the same model years. I measure a 68 Chevelle rear end one time that had the exact same dimensions. I do know that before 68 there were some different length rear ends put in Chevelles. I think the 66 is one inch shorter or something. Maybe some else here will know that one. The problem with the BOP rear end is that there is only one posi made for it. Its an Auburn. Also It is tough to get hardened axles for. I have been waiting for Tom's differential to make mine for me since December. So if you can get a 12 bolt reasonable do it. You will have a lot more options. Monte

 

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70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

 

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I run a GM ten bolt in my 70 Monte. I run a 408 s/b with plenty of torque and well over 400 HP. I opted for an Eaton carrier with Richmond 3.73 gears. I ran that combo last summer on DOT tires quite a bit and had no problems. I have since added a set of Moser stk. style axles because I'm now running an engine with alittle more power and some M/T DOT slicks that hook up much better than the old Hoosiers I was running last year. I've since wasted only one stud, but the diff is holding strong. I think it depends on what your planning on doing with the car and the setup ( engine power, adding nitrous, blowers ect.) is going to be. I'm planning on adding alot more parts to help up the power output. The twelve bolt is a good diff from what I've heard. I have'nt ran a car with enough power to justify looking for a 12-bolt for it. They are quite pricey around here if you can find one. Of coarse Moser and other companies make there own version of the 12-bolt also. I would'nt think of trying to run a stock 10-bolt on my car the way it is now. I had gotten a 68 Chevelle 10bolt from a guy on a trade one time that had been ran in a 10 sec. Camaro. Ther was alittle noise in the diff but I figured it was probably gears or bearings. What I found caught me totaly off guard and more or less rendered the diff usless. The keeper pin that holds the axles in place to keep the "C" clips in had moved forward a 1/4" in the carrier!!!! It had clearly been abused! You could'nt get the diff apart because the pin was shoved forward in the carrier so much the keeper screw for the pin had been sheared in two and you drop out the pin! I sold it for $20 bucks and took my losses. Thats why I added so much to my diff. So far so good!

 

Jon.

 

Jon.

 

------------------

Go Dale Jr. #8!!!!

1970 Monte Carlo

Jaguar Racing Green

Buckets with Factory Tach

408 s/b, KB Hyperuetectic flattops, Eagle SIR rods, Dart 200cc runner Iron Eagles( 2.05/1.60 valves)Comp Cams 294 Ext. Ener. Hyd. Cam, Comp magnum Rollertip rockers, Powerplus "Bowtie" Intake, Holley 750 HP series Carb, and lots of aluminum goodies!

350 Turbo Trans.

Eaton Posi Ten Bolt 3.73 gear/ Moser axles.

OLD 1/4 TIME: 13Sec.@103MPH. 1/4 Mile

New 1/4 mile time: 12.8 sec in the 1/4 mile.

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Huh my monte originally came with a pontiac 10 bolt, I always thought there was something odd about it, but now I swapped it out for a 12 bolt, are the pontiac 10 bolts worth anything then?

 

 

------------------

  • 69 custom camper/cst 10
  • 70 monte carlo
  • 73 chevelle 4 door

    deluxe"kermit": no carpet(rubber floor) no floor, no trunk still drives (D.Ot'd finally)

  • 74 cheyenne super 20 454 SOLD frown
  • 77 fully loaded silverado

    that my Grandpa gave me

  • 1980 BMW 320i(at least it isnt Japanese)
  • 1981 ford f150 4x4
  • 1972 Honda ct 90 trailbike

Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!)

ek_3.jpg

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Well I'm going to roll the dice with the 10 bolt and let the chips(diff parts)fall where they may lol.Thanks for all the info.

Mac

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Hooter:

Huh my monte originally came with a pontiac 10 bolt, I always thought there was something odd about it, but now I swapped it out for a 12 bolt, are the pontiac 10 bolts worth anything then?

 

 

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My plans are to build a street rod that I can race on the weekends. I have a 400 with a 350TH thinking 3.55or 3.73 for gears 2500-2800 converter something along those lines would be perfect for now ......of course if I can make it faster over a period of time I'll probably do that as well.It's a black with black interior,bucketsand it should look good of course.I want people to know I'm coming and catch h@#l trying to catch me lolthat,s about it.

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BowtieThunder:

What problems are you having?A 10-bolt housing will work more than likely, what are your plans?What are you building?Fill us in and we will go from there.

 

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Hey 12,s ....now your cookin' with gas.I used to run low 13's when my dad and I raced.It was always a blast but 12's should be even more in less time.Thanks for the info.

 

Mac

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BowtieThunder:

From the sounds of it should be a nice car,I would think the 10 bolt will be fine for you right now.Just add an aftermarket center section and you should be fineto low 12's

 

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Are the power trax units any good?

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mac13:

Hey 12,s ....now your cookin' with gas.I used to run low 13's when my dad and I raced.It was always a blast but 12's should be even more in less time.Thanks for the info.

 

Mac </font>

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Hey you would'nt believe the difference a set of axles made on that 10-bolt I have. I think they actually helped the housing strenght. It seemed more solid when hitting bumps after I put the Moser's in. They only cost me $240 for the set with studs. I don't know to much about Power Trax system. Thats the one you can install without taking the carrier out is'nt it? I'd definitley go with and Eaton or Auburn carrier just for the strength.

 

Jon.

 

------------------

Go Dale Jr. #8!!!!

1970 Monte Carlo

Jaguar Racing Green

Buckets with Factory Tach

408 s/b, KB Hyperuetectic flattops, Eagle SIR rods, Dart 200cc runner Iron Eagles( 2.05/1.60 valves)Comp Cams 294 Ext. Ener. Hyd. Cam, Comp magnum Rollertip rockers, Powerplus "Bowtie" Intake, Holley 750 HP series Carb, and lots of aluminum goodies!

350 Turbo Trans.

Eaton Posi Ten Bolt 3.73 gear/ Moser axles.

OLD 1/4 TIME: 13Sec.@103MPH. 1/4 Mile

New 1/4 mile time: 12.8 sec in the 1/4 mile.

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Are the eaton and auburn locker units or are they limited slip units? A little side note how long did it take for you to finish your Monte?

 

 

Mac

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Clock:

Hey you would'nt believe the difference a set of axles made on that 10-bolt I have. I think they actually helped the housing strenght. It seemed more solid when hitting bumps after I put the Moser's in. They only cost me $240 for the set with studs. I don't know to much about Power Trax system. Thats the one you can install without taking the carrier out is'nt it? I'd definitley go with and Eaton or Auburn carrier just for the strength.

 

Jon.

 

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1st, is the BOP 10 bolt worth anything? No not really. Only to the few people that know a BOP 10 bolt is as strong as a 12 bolt. 2nd, are the power trax units any good. Yes and they be one of the best choices out there today. I have heard lots of positive things about the power trax. If you want strong check out the Moroso brute strength line as well. I dont know if either of them have a unit for a corporate 10 bolt. 3rd, I know that the auburn unit is not a locker but a cone type posi. I am not sure but I dont think eaton makes a locker either. Monte

 

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70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

 

montesig.JPG

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Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mac13:
Are the eaton and auburn locker units or are they limited slip units? A little side note how long did it take for you to finish your Monte?


Mac
</font>


The Eaton carriers are not lockers to my knowledge, and I'm not sure on Auburn carriers.I'm pretty sure they are limited slip diffs.Mine looks identical to the factory posi unit that came out of it just beefier and well made. My Eaton uses clutch disks and I'm not sure what Auburn uses. I think Auburn carriers are alittle different from the Eatons. Eaton offers several different disk packs depending on how stiff you want the posi to function, thats the best way I can put it, limited terminology here. biggrin.gif I have the disk pack in mine thats not real aggressive, where you can get them that are more agressive, depends on how you want it to work. I could probably use alittle more agressive disk pack but this one will get me by for now.

As far as being finished, it's not done nor will it probably ever be totally done. Thats the fun of these cars. Getting a big ol' car to run in the low 12's to high 11's with full factory interior, and sheetmetal. It has taken me a couple years really to get it where it is now if that answers your question, thats including everything from the engine to the suspenssion. I'm looking at puting in full race seats and some kind of ratchet style shifter to drop some wieght. The factory buckets weigh a ton and the factory shifter does'nt sute my needs at the time. I'll probably wind up with a set of those Weld Pro-Stars, and maybe a glass hood and decklid also. Just to trim some wieght.

Jon.

------------------
Go Dale Jr. #8!!!!
1970 Monte Carlo
Jaguar Racing Green
Buckets with Factory Tach
408 s/b, KB Hyperuetectic flattops, Eagle SIR rods, Dart 200cc runner Iron Eagles( 2.05/1.60 valves)Comp Cams 294 Ext. Ener. Hyd. Cam, Comp magnum Rollertip rockers, Powerplus "Bowtie" Intake, Holley 750 HP series Carb, and lots of aluminum goodies!
350 Turbo Trans.
Eaton Posi Ten Bolt 3.73 gear/ Moser axles.
OLD 1/4 TIME: 13Sec.@103MPH. 1/4 Mile
New 1/4 mile time: 12.8 sec in the 1/4 mile.
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