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Brake Lines


dejh22

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I was looking under my 71 Monte today. I noiiced some moisture on the driver side frame at the very front. It is right below the proportioning valve. The valve is not wet. it is the line that runs to the back. It is hard to tell exactly where because the line is wrapped I a steal coil cover.

 I found some line on ebay, "Copper Nickel Brake Line" It is 3/16 O.D. My question is does anyone know if that is the correct size? I plan on doing the one line to the back for now, but would like to gather all the correct fittings and correct size line or is there another size also? I only do a little at a time because I have Parkinson's and can't knock out projects like I use to. So If anyone could help me put a list together, I would really appreciate it.

 

Thanks

Dale

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Go to this recent post regarding Brake Lines and start at the beginning of the post:

http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16914-brake-line-source/?hl=inline&do=findComment&comment=177433

 

rob

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Thanks Rob. I did use the search option on the site. I didn't find the info I was looking for. The cost of the one pre made line would cost as much or more then the material to make the all the brake lines on the car.

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Very interesting. Already cut to the correct length. Good luck!

I remember in 1988, buying tubes at the auto parts store, bending them, cutting them and adding the double lap flair.

I found a place that sold me the (spring like looking) protective housing that was on the rear axle brake lines. I added these prior to flaring the ends.

I had the rear axle out anyway.

Good times!

post-76-0-51079100-1476746472_thumb.jpg

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Well, going to return the kit I just bought. I just don't think I want to attempt  to bend all the lines. I'm now going to order a pre bent line kit from inline. The good news the old brake lines are off. I did not remove the master cylinder lines. Not sure but I think they are bolted some how behind the brake booster? They seem to be solid so should be fine. 

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If you order the complete brake line kit from Inline (part# CMB7102 7 pc kit)) you specify if you want stainless (@ $175) or or OE steel (@ $145) the master cylinder lines are included.  The master cylinder lines are connected with a bracket to the power brake booster mount.  It is not easy to see or get your hands on.  I couldn't figure what was holding them on myself until I pulled the booster and master off the car.  It is alot easier if the inner fender is removed.

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If you order the complete brake line kit from Inline (part# CMB7102 7 pc kit)) you specify if you want stainless (@ $175) or or OE steel (@ $145) the master cylinder lines are included.  The master cylinder lines are connected with a bracket to the power brake booster mount.  It is not easy to see or get your hands on.  I couldn't figure what was holding them on myself until I pulled the booster and master off the car.  It is alot easier if the inner fender is removed.Thanks

Thanks. I will be ordering the steel lines. The lines from the master cylinder are in good shape. I'm just going to let them stay. I already replaced the proportioning valve. I was reading an older post on here about the proportioning valve sensor wire plug was different. They stated that they took a razor and cut back the boot. So I did that and took a pair of pliers and squeezed the connector together and it worked. Pushed and snapped right in. Seems to be a good connection, Time will tell. 

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Inlinetube's proportioning valves are like the original and do not require any modification for the factory plug to fit.  i converted to 4 wheel disc and had to change the proportioning valve for a disc/disc setup.  I purchased that from Inline also.  I highly recommend that you also pick up a proportioning valve bleed tool like this (https://www.performanceonline.com/Combination-Proportioning-Valve-Bleed-Tool/).  I struggled greatly to get fluid to the front calipers after I replaced all my lines.  Part of the reason was due to the fact that the proprotioning valve tripped and prevented fluid to the front.  With empty brake lines it would not reset.  I also picked up a 60ml veterinarian syringe which I used to back fill fluid into the lines (caliper to proportioning valve) and reduce the amount of air to aid in bleeding.

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Tim, thanks for the info on the tool!

I bet our old proportioning valves are very gummed up and would get stuck very easily.

Bruce

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Tim, Did your replace the brake lines going to the rear when you did the conversion. I have been thinking of doing a rear brake to disc but was told I need to upgrade to stainless steel lines.

 

thanks

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All brakes lines were replaced however i went with steel but did stainless flex lines to the calipers.  I originally ordered and attempted the Inline rear disc conversion they sell.  It was cheaper than RightStuff and came with new rear axle lines cut and flared to length.  I was unable to use the kit due my axle stud flange not fitting into the rotor hat.  I ended up going with an SSBC kit that fit like a glove.  I had already purchased the 7 pc kit to replace all the hard lines so I just cut to length the axle lines from that kit.  Stainless vs OEM steel for the hard lines is personal preference and there really is no performance advantage unless you drive in bad weather then the stainless wins.  The flex lines I went with stainless because the SSBC came with them so just purchased front stainless lines.  I also went DOT 5 and glad I did since I had fluid all over the place!!!

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Well, the new lines are on. I'm glad I went with the pre bent lines. Had some trouble with the rear line where it connects in the back above the axle. I could not get it to line up. After saying (yelling) some choice words I did get it to screw together. I still have to bleed the system. I'm hoping that goes smooth. But I have this "funny" feeling. :unsure: 

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