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71gibby

Anudder suspension mod question.

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I would like to start out by saying how much it is appreciated as to how much you guys/gals share here! I have learned a ton and it is evident most if not all here are very willing to share in the learning process associated with these awesome vehicles.

 

I am at the point where I am going to remove the 72 body from the chassis so I can have it sandblasted and powder coated.

 

My objective with the body off is to replace the fuel, brake lines and do any suspension modifications desired prior to setting body back down on chassis due to easy access.

 

A bit about my objective for the car once it is back on the road:

 

- This car will never end up on a race or road track.

-  It is intended to be a family project that in the end we can jump in and drive on the weekends wherever we would like to go, maybe take part in some "Roll ins", maybe run the Route 66, who knows.

- I would like to be able to run through the curves and not have to fight the floating or swaying of which is normal for this body.

- Basically the goal is to have it ride like a new car.

- No plans on huge HP motor, but that can change.

- As of now it does not have Positraction but more than likely will in the future.

- Planning on an overdrive transmission.

- Possibly thinking about installing a  rack and pinion steering system if it is recommended.

- I would like to drop the car 2" in front with drop spindles and at least 1" in the rear through the use of Viking coil overs front and back.

- Since the car would more than likely not end up with huge HP was thinking of just freshening up the rear drum brakes and front discs.

 

So to my questions.

 

What suspension modifications would you recommend to achieve a road hugging driver?

- I like the Global West rear coil over system with the upper crossmember ,as well as their upper adjustable control arms to accomodate for new pinion angle since car will be lowered.

- Is there any benefit to replacing the rear lower factory control arms?

- What about the rear, flimsy body braces?

- Would there be any benefit for my vehicle to go with a rear sway bar?

- On the front end, since being a "driver" is there any reason to go with tubular upper and lowers?

- The plan is to replace the body mounts with rubber and the front sway bar to have poly.

 

I hope to get some input here from others with the same type build and what modifications they have done as well as their overall experience with the mods.

 

Sincerely,

 

Jim

 

 

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One of the best mods I have done was add coil over shocks. I went with Viking coil overs from a recommendation from a member here and what a difference in ride quality. The ride height is adjustable on all 4 corners and you can have a cushy ride like a Cadillac or a stiff ride like a Porsche. And with the body off that would be the ideal time to add them.

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One of the best mods I have done was add coil over shocks. I went with Viking coil overs from a recommendation from a member here and what a difference in ride quality. The ride height is adjustable on all 4 corners and you can have a cushy ride like a Cadillac or a stiff ride like a Porsche. And with the body off that would be the ideal time to add them.

Thanks for the reply Glen,

 

First off, I hope your bride is doing well!

 

The reason for the decision on the Viking coil overs is from the info you as well as Cory had provided. I am definately sold on that modification.

 

Thanks,

Jim

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Lucy is doing well. The only other thing I did was change out the rear control arms with boxed control arms. I am still entertaining adding disc brakes in the rear.

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If you plan on straighten some curves sway bars will help in the front and rear. If the lower control arms for the rear is not boxed then upgrading them to box or even the tub style arms will help keep the rear end pin to the road. I agree with Glen on the Viking coil overs went that way on my 72 in the front with tubular upper and lower controls. With the coil overs and a low HP big block I can drop the front end low enough that a low profile floor jack will not roll under the car as it hits the 1 3/8" front sway bar and then hits the front cross member.

 

My 70 is more of a cruiser. It has lowering springs front and back with KYB gas shocks. The sway bars on it is stock size. I redid the rear end control arms by getting a kit from UMI and added their rear shock brace for a little more support to the frame. The front control arms are stock with polyurethane bushing. It rides and handles really good with its setup. Both cars have front and rear disc.

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If you plan on straighten some curves sway bars will help in the front and rear. If the lower control arms for the rear is not boxed then upgrading them to box or even the tub style arms will help keep the rear end pin to the road. I agree with Glen on the Viking coil overs went that way on my 72 in the front with tubular upper and lower controls. With the coil overs and a low HP big block I can drop the front end low enough that a low profile floor jack will not roll under the car as it hits the 1 3/8" front sway bar and then hits the front cross member.

 

My 70 is more of a cruiser. It has lowering springs front and back with KYB gas shocks. The sway bars on it is stock size. I redid the rear end control arms by getting a kit from UMI and added their rear shock brace for a little more support to the frame. The front control arms are stock with polyurethane bushing. It rides and handles really good with its setup. Both cars have front and rear disc.

Hi Robert,

So with the 70 cruiser and the lowering springs/shocks what is the comparison on rattles and such in difference to the coil overs on the 72? I assume the 70 is the brown car? Love the height on that car!

My objective is to have a somewhat quiet road noise so was thinking coil overs were the best option? My secondary objective is to achieve  the height your car has but if It can be achieved by springs and shocks I am good with that, just don't want the rattling Cory and Glen have made reference to.

 

Thanks,

Jim

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Hi Jim yes the 70 is the brown one, its overall height is an 1" lower then stock (still has 1970 body mounts on it). I like the ride it gives, it rides smooth and if there is a rattle you don't notice it due to the exhaust. Here is a good video of the brown one getting a test drive before an Eastern meet https://youtu.be/bZCmUbz6k8w you can hear the brake rod rubbing on the fire wall and the rear tires picking up rocks, towards the end you'll hear a little rattle but that was due to a lose a-arm shaft nut. And here is another video while at an Eastern meet heading back to the hotel https://youtu.be/sYSB2NBtXH8 this time you hear most wind blowing through the car. By going to the coil overs you lose the metal on metal noise that Glen and Cory talk about as the coils sit on two alum plates one that as a trust washer.

As I said earlier the 72 bottom in the picture it has Viking coil overs on the front install tubular front control arms and 2" drop spindles. I have the shock body set for cruise with a 450lbs spring to support the weight of a 427 tall deck big block. When I originally put them in I had the ride height where the 26x8 front tires would hit the inner fenders when trying the wheel. So I raised the height to get the low profile jack enough room to get it under the car. And on the rear is just a regular pair of coil overs with 500lbs springs and the only way to low it is to move the shocks down or up on the brackets on the rear end.

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Hi Jim yes the 70 is the brown one, its overall height is an 1" lower then stock (still has 1970 body mounts on it). I like the ride it gives, it rides smooth and if there is a rattle you don't notice it due to the exhaust. Here is a good video of the brown one getting a test drive before an Eastern meet https://youtu.be/bZCmUbz6k8w you can hear the brake rod rubbing on the fire wall and the rear tires picking up rocks, towards the end you'll hear a little rattle but that was due to a lose a-arm shaft nut. And here is another video while at an Eastern meet heading back to the hotel https://youtu.be/sYSB2NBtXH8 this time you hear most wind blowing through the car. By going to the coil overs you lose the metal on metal noise that Glen and Cory talk about as the coils sit on two alum plates one that as a trust washer.

As I said earlier the 72 bottom in the picture it has Viking coil overs on the front install tubular front control arms and 2" drop spindles. I have the shock body set for cruise with a 450lbs spring to support the weight of a 427 tall deck big block. When I originally put them in I had the ride height where the 26x8 front tires would hit the inner fenders when trying the wheel. So I raised the height to get the low profile jack enough room to get it under the car. And on the rear is just a regular pair of coil overs with 500lbs springs and the only way to low it is to move the shocks down or up on the brackets on the rear end.

Thanks for the rides in your awesome car Robert!

After lowering your cars did you go with adjustable, rear , upper arms to deal with the new pinion angle or is that not a concern? I only want to do this one time as easy access when body is off.

 

Thanks!

 

Jim

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I really do appreciate the input you two have given me!

 

Sorry as this is kind of a redundant post as do not know yet how to entirely delete one I had made earlier.

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