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700r4 or 200r4


Rock

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This winter I know one thing for certain, I want to add a OD transmission. I know the 700 needs no electronics and the 200 does and there is a kit for that. Which one would be a better option for a SB Chevy 350 keeping in mind that I may also Be looking at either A 383 stroker or possibly a BB 402 some day down the road. I was thinking a Muncie but decided against the shifting thing. I am looking at reliability and ease of modification. Any input is appreciated.

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I have the 700 and if I have any problems I will go to the 200. The biggest difference is first gear. When it is damp oput my 200 will slip the wheels a little if I give it to much gas.

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I have the 200 and it was a direct bolt in replacement for the 350, which was a huge selling point. As far as the electronic kits go after much experimentation I would just go with a toggle switch which would lock the trans when you want it locked. I have tried the mechanical lockup, the vacuum lockup, and a speed lockup, all with mixed results. The speed lockup seems to be the best as far as drive-ability goes because it allows you to dial in the speed you want the trans to lockup at. That is the setup I ended up with after all the others didn't lock where I thought they should lock, if that makes sense.

 

I understand the 700 requires some modification to make it fit, but doesn't have the lockup input required by the 200.

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I plan on getting a 200, that first gear with the 700 and  my 3.73 gear just don't mix well

 

the 200's  200r4, 2.74, 1.57, 1.00, 0.67, 2.07 for reverse

the 700's is  700r4, 3.06, 1.62, 1.00, 0.70, 2.29 for reverse

 

that 1st/2nd drop of a 700 is terrible

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Where is the code for which gear ratio my 12 bolt has?

 passengers side, front side of tube

 

I'm going with Bowtie overdrives

 

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/

 

make sure you get the proper carb linkage for the TV cable, it is a critical for proper operation of a 200 or a 700 

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Really? when I hit 65 MPH my RPM are over 2500. But if I don't get any benefit NO reason to spend a bunch of money. I read one person say he is running a 2004r with a 2.73 and he says at 70 mph he is seeing around 1750 RPM. Is that not possible?

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I think it's around 10mph to fast. I am running 245-60-15 tires so I think that throws it off a little. Others have said an OD would cause the motor to bog and actually get worse MPG. I sent an email to Bowites with my specs and see what they say for recommendations.

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With my 200r4 set-up,with p275/60-15's at 70 mph is at 2,200 rpm. I was running a th350 and the same mph was 3,000 rpm. that puts the rear gear ratio at 3:42 I believe. I'm telling ya, that rpm drop makes for a boring ride if you are noticed to the high rpm you are used too. I just drop it into 3rd and right back to your th350 ride. 1st  gear is very impressive!!

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I have a Bowtie Overdrive 700r4 their stage 2 trans. As Sam pointed out get their linkage kit base on what carb you are running. With the rear gear I have (2.73) I'm not getting the most out of the trans with its 2200 stall. I have the option to lock up  the stall via toggle switch or let it lock up when it needs  to and disengaged when applying the brake. Car runs good with the big block and the700r4 and the 2.73 but a different gear could make it better. The last time it was on the high way was three years ago when we were at Carlisle for the Eastern meet, we were running 65 mph and turning probably 1,950 RPM's on 81 with a 26" tall tire.

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Still waiting to hear from Bowtie Overdrives but at this point I see no advantage to an overdrive transmission. $1800 is a lot of money for very little gains. I looked into adding different gearing but it would cost me another $700 to add 3.31 gears and a posi rear end. I may just keep it the way it is. Not like I drive it a lot. Usually to the local shows and back. The money I am saving can be invested to make me more money!

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that trans would work great with your combo, the 2.98 first gear would help you a bunch

 

the hardest part of doing a manual swap in a monte is finding the cross shaft (Z bar) frame mount, it is a monte only specific part, if I were going to do a manual swap, I'd pony up for a hydraulic release bearing set up ($400-600) that would eliminate the cross shaft (Z bar) and the rest of the clutch linkage

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Glen, you should ask Murray (Murphy) where and how to get that correct Z-bar.  He obviously found one for his recent M20 swap and I believe he was putting together some sort of "how to" guide for the entire project.

 

That M22z is sorta pricey but at least it is not close ratio and you'll get that incredible "rock crusher" whine on acceleration and deceleration - priceless!

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I have come to find out everything I "want" is pricey. But I believe the price comes with the shifter and maybe the bell housing. I will have to call and find out.

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After looking at the gearing for a wide ratio 4 speed to a th350 the final drive is still 1:1 on both so I still am not gaining anything as far as gas mileage or lower RPM. My goal was to drop the RPM range and I see that isn't going to happen having a 2.73 rear end. I still have not received an email from Bowtie so I will just call them and see what they have to say.

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