NWmonte71 Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 You're welcome, and you're right about the rubber hose, definitely not original. There are 1 or 2 more hoses at the fuel pump to replace and at least 1 at the sending unit at the tank. Some say that ethanol in today's fuel will deteriorate the older rubber tubing from the inside and you'll get particles in your filter or the float bowl. I'd recommend changing all of them. Inline Tube and Classic Tube are just 2 of the suppliers for your new tubing. Dan I read several reviews on people buying replacement metal fuel lines from Inline, Classic, and others. Almost all of the reviews were bad, people complained about being wrong length and incorrect bends. Some folks even went as far as saying, "Don't bother with any aftermarket company, your better off making your own with a flaring tool & bender". I do have these tools, but decided to give OPG (Original Parts Group) a try. They specifically sell the 350cid/270 hp model, pump to carb steel line made by Fine Lines. This company is advertising "Made in the USA"". I ordered one and will see how good the fitment/quality is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I have very good results from inline tube, I've used them on 2 different montes so far, yes you may need to tweek them a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 As to rubber hose replacement, I found a small plastic restriction plug in the vapor line when replacing mine several years ago. Don't just rip them all out and toss them! I don't have access to my previous reply with pictures this weekend. Perhaps I can find it. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 I got my carburetor all cleaned up in the fuel bowl area, seat, and inlet orifice. I took the steel fuel line off and confirmed that someone in the past had cut the tube and reattached it with a rubber fuel line section. Glad I got the new fuel line ordered from OPG. One question I do have, the fuel filter I found inside the inlet was a compressed brass pellet looking filter. Inside the filter was various flakes of rust and small debris (circled in picture). Napa Auto Parts gave me a paper element replacement........which one is correct? Which one is more superior than the other? Can I just flush the brass filter and stick it back in? The fitment is also slightly different between the two filters when installed in the inlet housing. Just want to make sure I'm using the correct parts and installing them properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I had a brass filter for the first decade or more but now have a paper filter. I don't know what one is better. (Good question!) The line on mine was very difficult to loosen and were it not for a line wrench, I would have stripped it for sure, trying to loosen the fitting. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I found the old post with pics: 71 fuel tank hoses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I like the paper filter, the brass filter is okay, yet I've seen the brass one so plugged you couldn't blow through it. Also I don't see a spring in the pictures. I did have one? Lots of debris, plenty of stuff to hang that needle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 Yes, the spring! If the filter ever get's too plugged, the spring is depressed by the pressure of the fuel and fuel will by-pass the filter. If I am wrong on this, let me know. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 I like the paper filter, the brass filter is okay, yet I've seen the brass one so plugged you couldn't blow through it. Also I don't see a spring in the pictures. I did have one? Lots of debris, plenty of stuff to hang that needle. Yes, there was a spring in the fuel inlet to the carburetor. I think I might run the new paper element style filter instead of the brass one. I did get the air horn and everything torqued back up. Putting the air horn back on was a real test of patience and detail. I had to juggle my fingers with a few pieces to get it to evenly sit down flat. I really hope I have better results with the carburetor once I'm ready to start it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 UPDATE: I removed all the spark plugs and pulled the coil wire from the coil to crank over the engine. When I went to turn over the engine with the key........NOTHING! No clicks from the starter. I do get a click from the carburetor solenoid. The lights on the dash, "dummy" lights do illuminate as normal. During my original carburetor flooding experience, I did notice my starter was struggling to start and at times it would just quit. I decided to pull the starter and bench test it. I hooked up jumper cables to a good known 12V battery and jumped the switch post. Almost immediately the solenoid started hissing/sizzling and small amounts of smoke started to puff out. I deemed this starter toast, it looked old and was covered by road debris and thick oil sludge. Hopefully after I get a new starter on, I can crank the engine over to test my carburetor and see if the float problem has been solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Well at least we're moving in the right direction. The Monte Carlo bug stings all of us, when it's not one thing it's another. Let's not even speak of "snowball" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 IMO, have your starter rebuilt, if you can. I am lucky to have a place near me that rebuilt mine several years ago, since I know it was original to my car. I don't trust any rebuilt items from auto parts stores. At the very least, keep your starter till everything works. Once it's turned in as a core, it's gone at most places. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 UPDATE: Finally some good news! I went out and bought a Reman stock starter from NAPA. The starter came with a 10 year replacement warranty and included a test sheet in the box showing the results after it was re-manufactured. I decided to bench test it first before installing, all good. I installed the starter and tried the key, the engine turns over almost effortlessly with the plugs removed. I'm glad I got the starter fixed. Now for the carburetor............. I cranked it over for 5 seconds, paused for 2 seconds and cranked for another 5. No more fountain of fuel blasting out of the vent tube or fuel running down the intake from the base gasket. I opened the primary butterfly and looked inside and could see a little fuel wetting on the venturi's and a very slight fuel smell. I think it's safe to say that my float is acting correct now and I can re-install my spark plugs/wires/coil wire. Looking forward to driving the 71 again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 It used to be that 92 percent of NAPA rebuilt starters were really brand spanking new. They did this to keep their rebuilt failures way down. I worked at NAPA for 10 months last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 UPDATE: Well, just when I think I'm making progress and moving ahead............ more problems. So tonight I installed the plugs, connected the coil wire, and cranked it over........ nothing. The engine cranks over ok and occasionally fights to start, but no real kick off. The carburetor is no longer spraying fuel out of the vent or leaking anywhere on the manifold (which is good). After several attempts of no success, I pulled the #8 spark plug (plug was all wet with fuel, but no fuel was pouring out of the hole like what was happening before). I decided to have my wife crank over the engine while I ground out the spark plug to check for spark. While cranking, I get a very intermittent blue spark and I also noticed a fuel mist is spraying from the #8 plug hole (since I removed the plug for testing). I decided to take a step back and think about this. Is my coil weak or going out, therefore causing not enough spark to start the car? I decided to pull the coil and look at the plug wire contact. Wow! The inside was very crusty looking with green corrosion: Bingo!? Maybe? The coil looks really old and appears to be an original Delco Remy. I'm really hoping this is the culprit on why the car is not easily starting. It is really killing me to have this nice Monte Carlo sitting in the garage and I have only owned it a few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Now would be a good time to convert to HEI ignition unless you are going for keeping it original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Hey Don, had the same coil problem with my 71,new Napa coil & wires and we'really back on the road! I did eventually go with HEI setup which has been a vast IMPROVEMENT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 points! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Ditto! On the points. HEI, performance is much better like night and day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 Update: I finally got the car started, but it wasn't easy. I had to charge the battery and crank, crank, crank...........pump the pedal and feather it while cranking. It finally fired, but ran rough. I kept the rpm up around 1500 for a minute or so and then let it idle on its own. The idle was real low and seemed on the verge of dying. I shut off the car and decided to try restarting again. The second time, not so lucky. I ended up cranking and cranking. Nothing. The starter and fully charged battery struggle to turn it over, it's like there is some kind of big resistance on it. The good news is that the Qjet is not flooding or doing any fuel overflow. Starting this thing has gotten to be a real bear. To recap, I have installed new plugs, wires, distributor cap, coil, battery cables, and starter. You would think this thing would fire right up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 No mention of points? Replacing points is a must, have you checked them out, to see if they're pitted? Set the dwell angle, iddle mixture screws, and iddle. Are you sure you're not sucking vacuum from the base of the carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 No mention of points? Replacing points is a must, have you checked them out, to see if they're pitted? Set the dwell angle, iddle mixture screws, and iddle. Are you sure you're not sucking vacuum from the base of the carb? Yeah, the car does have points on it still. I have not checked them for proper gap or dwell. Honestly, I'd like to dump the points and go to a more reliable, maintenance free setup like HEI. I want to keep the car looking stock under the hood........... so maybe the Pertronix conversion kit is the right thing for me? It still uses the OEM looking distributor and coil. Once I do get it running, what do you suggest for adjusting the idle mixture screws (all the way in and back them out 1-1/2 turns)? I appreciate all the feedback, I am very motivated to get my Monte going again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Dwell meter for the points, some people use a feeler gauge to get you close enough, and then screw them in while the car is running (CW) and just before it dies turn them (CCW) from a quarter of a turn to half turn. As far as the iddle mixture screws, a tachometer is very handy in this case, or a vacuum gauge. Using both in a sense where you get the highest reading if you will. Although the initial setting a turn and a half is plenty to get it started. You're on the right path.. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 most Q jets likes the idle screws out 3-4 turns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWmonte71 Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 I stopped by NAPA Auto Parts tonight and picked up a Pertronix 1181 Ignitor electronic ignition kit. Looking forward to installing it this weekend. Thanks everyone for suggestions on QJet idle adjustments. At least now I have an idea where the screws should approximately be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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