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Restoring 12 bolt housing ?


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Hey, Phil,

 

I think this a common area of  customization, especially the rear gear cover, so you see a lot of different treatments including chrome. When I replaced the rear wheel bearings in my '70, I applied a fresh coat of Seymour's Cast Blast to the gear cover and prefer that look to black.

 

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Here's a list of restoration finishes and paint colors that shows the rear axle assembly as painted semi-gloss black:

 

Underhood Detailing:

Frame and upper/lower control arms and upper shafts = semi-gloss black
Front coil springs = gloss black or natural (better detail contrast)
Firewall, inner fenders, radiator support = semi-gloss black
Radiator and fan = gloss black
Fan clutch = natural aluminum
Radiator shroud = natural black plastic or gloss black
Steering box = natural cast iron gray
Steering linkage = natural steel
Front sway bar = natural cast iron gray
Heater or AC housing = semigloss black
Hood hinges, latch, catch and springs = gray phosphate plated
Brackets and steel pulleys = semi-gloss or gloss black (gloss gives more detail contrast)
Cast iron pulleys = natural cast iron
Master cylinder = natural cast iron (some use gloss black)
Brake booster = gold cadmium plated (master cylinder lid also)
Windshield wiper motor = gloss black
Alternator = natural aluminum
Power steering pump = gloss black
AC compressor = semi-gloss black
Steering column shaft = natural steel
Horns = gloss black
Coil = gloss black
Voltage regulator = gloss black
Distributor = natural aluminum with gloss black cap
Fuel and brake lines = natural steel

 

Undercarriage Details:

Transmission = natural aluminum
Bellhousing = natural aluminum
Transmission support = semi-gloss black
Driveshaft = natural steel
Rear axle = semi-gloss black
Rear swaybar = semi-gloss black
Rear coil springs = gloss black
Rear control arms = semi-gloss black
Gas tank = natural steel (shiny)
Gas tank straps = gloss black
Parking brake cables = natural steel

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Hey Phil, I used Por 15 when I did my diff. I prefered the black though being an OEM Freak...

 

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Darren

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Hi Phil, I had the diff on jack stands on the tube housing and a block of 2x4 to put under the carrier housing for when I rotated it and held it in place. I used a stiff paint brush and Gunwash (Varsol) to brush on everywhere and let it soak for a while and then brushed it on again using an old tarp underneath to catch the crud. After she all dried up I scuffed it all every inch in all the nooks and crannys with a green pot scrubber pad (good thing I aint married anymore). after that I removed the diff cover and changed fluid and gasket and buttoned it up with old bolts until she sealed and dried. I painted it all with 2 coats of Por 15 and then changed the diff cover bolts one at a time so the seal didnt pop with new bolts. Even pulled all the brakes apart and wire wheeled the insides with a dremel

and painted in there and used Por 15 high heat exhaust paint on the new rear drums and picked up new brake lines from In-Line Tube down in the states. Picked up Grade 8 cadium coated bolts to put back in the diff so it was all new including wheel cylinders from Napa.

Actually did the whole rolling chassis that way to from front to back every single piece is new and por 15 in one of 6 different colors they offer and all new fuel and brake lines etc.... They Call That "The SnowBall Effect" you start on just the diff and the next thing you know it and the body is off the frame and in a million pieces....... hahahaha as in first picture see body in background.

 

Darren 

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