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To Vortec or not to Vortec, that is the question


phils72mc

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The current plan:
Original 2 bolt 355 zero decked with 4 relief flat tops.

 

882 heads with 1.94 valves and some port/bowel work coming soon. Thought about some cheap eBay aluminum heads but I'm skeptical. According to Summit compression calc. I get 9.15:1 compression. Perfect for the street, I think.

 

Leaning towards this cam since I'm a little gun shy about over camming.  Lunati Bare Bones Camshaft and Lifter Kits 10120100LK

Topped off with Edelbrock RPM and a spread-bore 650-700 cfm carb. Oh and a Chevy HEI.

 

My original plan was to install vortec heads but I'm worried the compression will be too high even with thick head gaskets. So I will probably port the 882 heads I already have and hope for the best. I read an article on Super Chevy about a budget build they did with 882 heads. It produced 367HP and 422ft.lbs torque. I like the low end torque, since I plan to keep the th350 and 2:73 rear gear for now. http://www.superchev...ll-block-build/

 

Do you think this will be a good setup for a pump gas/street motor? Is anyone running vortec's with 10.3:1 compression on pump gas? I read that I can get away with it if I install a fat duration cam, but I think it may be too much for a stock bottom end 2 bolt and it may be self defeating. None of this is set in stone yet with exception of the zero decked short block is assembled. I appreciate any recommendations. Of coarse, I want as much power as I can squeeze out of it, while still remaining a good street car.

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I would recommend not sacrificing the cam specs in order to fit the head or trying to stay on the hairy edge of detonation.

 

When I was still researching for a SBC, I did quite a bit of looking into the ProMaxx 9183 aluminum head.  They're almost obscenely cheap for an aluminum head, and can handle higher compression.  However, there may be some consideration in the intake choice, I believe it has taller/higher intake ports than many other heads.

 

My brother and I have both looked into Vortec heads in the past.  Junkyard heads aren't the way to go (if you're considering that route); by the time you get them magnafluxed, cleaned, and machined, you will have nearly the cost of a new assembled set from GM.  That's if the heads aren't cracked, which is a good chance if you don't find a low-mileage set.

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Thanks Blackhawk, I was going to buy rebuilt stock vortec's. Jeg's has a great deal on them right now but only one review.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/514005/10002/-1

 

But then I open a can of worms because as you said I'm on the ragged edge of detonation. I know vortec's are limited to .450 lift in stock form. So then I'd have to have them worked on. In a perfect world I could find some 68-72cc iron heads to bolt on that wouldn't break the bank.

 

I am tempted by the Promax and another company called Quantico. I watched a YouTube vid where a guy said the Quantico heads were as nice as Dart castings.

 

So that leads me back to square one. 882 castings that I already own. Yeah they are smog heads but I believe I have the heavy castings.

 

What cylinder head did you go with?

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I have a set of reworked 882 iron heads on my 355 zero deck,2 valve relief pistons, 68cc chamber with 2.02/1.600 stainless valves with stellite exhaust seats, so you can run unleaded or leaded fuel(racing gas) Bee Hive springs and 1.6 ratio roller tip rockers,screw in studs,bronzewall guides, 10:2 to 1 compression with a .041" Felpro gasket. I have always wanted to got with aluminum heads from Edlebrock. "The kit" includes the Air Gap RPM intake (which I run). I think my heads work just as well,since they are a copy of Vic Jr's heads he did back in 1992 on a 355 cid small block that produced 420ponies. I think you should go with the Vortex heads, They're have been some people on this site (Robyn Lance in the home page,our archives)  that have made some good torque from this setup. That cam you have in mind would work great with those heads. Torque is the name of the game. I'm stop thinking small block 427! but the motown block is the kicker! (pricey) I could always go 383 wth the block I have. And don't worry about 2 bolt mains, 6,500 rpms all day long.

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Thanks for the advice 420ponies. I want the vortec's because they flow so well and I'd be able to set my quench at .039-.041 for perfect quench. They claim if you get the quench right it will be fine on high octane pump gas with the vortec's. For 218.00 each I'm very tempted. How involved is it to install rocker rollers on vortec heads? Is it worth the trouble?

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​I believe you need to machine the spring pockets down for higher lift cam. Bee Hive springs are a must (Comp Cams). They would also have the roller tip rockers for them. It's a nice set-up. I think full roller rockers would interfere with the valve covers. I'd call Competition Cams tech. line to find out.

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Phil

OEM vortec heads will require center bolt valve covers, a vortec specific intake manifold and self aligning rocker arms. If you have air conditioning your upper, rear a/c bracket will not bolt to the vortec intake. Don't get me wrong, I love the vortec heads but there are other considerations. 

Your cam selection would work well with vortecs, as they like the split duration, and the .443 lift would certainly work without additional work.

Even with the tight quench you're after and the efficiency of the vortec heads, I would be a little skeptical at 10.3:1. If you get some bad gas, bad things could happen, especially if you don't have forged pistons.

 

If you're looking for "as much power as you can squeeze out of it" I would seriously look at the Promaxx 2169 aluminum heads at $825/pr (Summit or Jegs). The aluminum will allow for the higher compression, no special intake or rocker arms are required and your valve covers will bolt on. Then I would look at a little more cam. Something in the 1500-5800 rpm range and a 2200-2400 rpm stall converter to tie it all together. Then (maybe even first) you should consider changing to a 3.31 rear ratio. The 2.73's will kill any feel of power you're after and the 3.31 are still a nice cruising gear.

The stock 2-bolt main is no problem with the power and rpm you would be looking at.

BTW, the Edelbrock RPM intake is a square bore intake and will not accept a spread bore carb without an adapter. The standard Edelbrock Performer (non RPM) is both spread bore and square bore compatible.

Any questions?

Keep us informed what you do. Curious minds want to know.

Scott

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Its Just Me Thanks for the input. I knew about the valve covers and intake but had not heard of the ac bracket problem. I know my 2:73 is a limiting factor but I do like the low cruise rpm on the hwy. Thought about doing the overdrive conversion but I'm afraid if I keep changing things I will run out of money and time long before the car is road worthy. My gut says just use the 882's since I have all the parts to make that happen. If I could get close to the results listed in the super Chevy article I'd be satisfied for now.

 

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I have a set of vortec heads on a little 355 that makes 390HP. The motor builder had (think he order them) the heads drilled for the older style intakes plus the vortec style intakes. The bolt holes that aren't used has allen style screws in them to close the bolt hole. They installed regular rocker arms with poly locks on top of them. I then order an adapter for the valve covers and was able to run the older covers. We did run a factory upper TPI and runners on a base intake for vortec heads no issue. If the rear AC bracket don't line up make a bracket out of flat stock so you can support the bracket. 

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