JG72 Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Looking for help on my volt gauge not working. Needle just stays at 10 amp it looks like. Anyone got a fix for this? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Factory you would have an amp gauge in the upper right hand corner. Must of the once’s I’ve seen stays on zero unless there is a draw on the system. If it’s charging then it would be on the plus side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 If you have converted to internally regulated alt than your gauge would not operate correctly any more since it operates off that regulator circuit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG72 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 All still factory. Thanks for input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Jim, 10 AMPS (-) or (+)? Engine running or off or all the time? When mine stayed at (-) the charging system was not charging. (All stock) I ended up taking it to a repair shop that specializes in automotive electrical repair. They said they fixed it but a few hrs later it didn't work again. I took it back and it took a long time but he said it was not getting power from inside the car to energize the field. He used a different wire I no longer used (TCS) I think and has been good for over a year now. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG72 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Stays at +10 on or off. I still have that TCS plugged in sitting on my intake. Do they even do anything? Thanks for feedback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 TCS is another story. I wonder if the gauge would return to 0 if the battery was disconnected? If it does, I believe there is a draw or drain on the battery otherwise, does the needle EVER move? The gauge may be broken or perhaps someone (I assume you are not the original owner) disconnected it or by-passed it. Mine will go + for some time after starting up but then returns to 0. At idle if I turn everything on it goes to (-) a bit, then (+) when I rev up the engine. I have the original small (35 AMP?) Alternator, NO A/C. Does the battery ever go dead? Do you have a handheld voltmeter for testing your battery voltage? Good thing to have! Bruce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Here’s a simplified circuit. You can see it comes off the regulator. If you haven’t by passed the regulator than the regulator is bad or the circuit is open. In order for a meter to read AMPS than it must be in series with the circuit. OHMS law. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG72 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Thanks guys that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Just re read and see you said +10 so I wouldn't think that is a draw because a draw or drain would be a (-) number, sorry. Bad gauge, needle is off center, reset to ZERO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 I changed mine from voltage reg. to internal regulator in a 62 Amp alternator and it works fine. When the key is off the needle is about half the width of the needle on the - side. When I start engine gauge goes to + then settles back. When I turn on the lights the gauge bumps to the - side but goes right back. I don't think going to an internal regulator changes anything in my opinion. John S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 I changed mine from voltage reg. to internal regulator in a 62 Amp alternator and it works fine. When the key is off the needle is about half the width of the needle on the - side. When I start engine gauge goes to + then settles back. When I turn on the lights the gauge bumps to the - side but goes right back. I don't think going to an internal regulator changes anything in my opinion. John S Pretty sure it does because the bleed off diode is no longer in series with the gauge. Unless you never bypassed your regulator? Mine is by passed and never moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG72 Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 Ya it just stays at 10 all the time so gauge must be broken. Thanks for info guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Pretty sure it does because the bleed off diode is no longer in series with the gauge. Unless you never bypassed your regulator? Mine is by passed and never moves. I have the gauge wired exactly like the wiring diagram you posted and it works. Maybe it is not supposed to but it does, as far as accuracy is concerned, who knows. John S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 I have the gauge wired exactly like the wiring diagram you posted and it works. Maybe it is not supposed to but it does, as far as accuracy is concerned, who knows. John S how did you rewire yours? Mine, the regulator was removed and the connector wires were shorted together. I would like to know so I can get mine to respond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 how did you rewire yours? Mine, the regulator was removed and the connector wires were shorted together. I would like to know so I can get mine to respond. There are four wires connected to the voltage regulator, a 10 AWG RED, and 16 AWG Brown, Blue, and White.The blue and brown wires from the regulator are spliced together, the other end of the blue wire will go to the field terminal of the two wire connector on the alternator. The white wire is cut and terminated as it will not be used. The other wire on the two wire connector(RED) I connected to the terminal block on the radiator support by the battery. Some sites will say to hook that wire to the red hot wire on the back of the alternator. Avoid doing this since the RED wire is the sensing wire, it needs to sense voltage to work properly and it will not sense a voltage drop right off the alternator. If you wish you could also connect that RED wire all the back to where the voltage regulator was and splice to the RED fusible link hot wire that came off of the regulator. I found it easier to connect to terminal block by battery. I connected one gauge wire to the horn relay where the power is, and the other wire to the terminal block by the battery. Then it worked, very simple. John S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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