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71MonteCarloMD

Starting up issue

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I had issue with starting that gave me flimsy results as it started up fine or does not crank at all.  With heat issue on old solenoid, I decided to replace starter with AC Delco from Summit Racing and put in new battery that was 6 years old.  I noticed I got same results, I plan to replace coil ignition as I’m not sure if that will resolve my issue?  

What else should I look for?

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Your description of issue is to broad.  Does it happen Engine Cold and/or Hot?  I had problems from engine temp messing with my Starter but never has it not even want to turn over.  It acted like the Battery was really weak but eventually would start.  I replaced my Starter with a AC Delco Heavy Duty, Heat Shield and also a Heat Sink Gasket between Carb and Intake.  Even with this, there are however rare, moments where it feels like it is briefly doing it again.

When it won't start, is there power?  If it turns over but won't start, check Plug Spark.  It may be something entirely different.

 

Doug

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Doug - it varies regardless the engine is cold or hot as I put in new starter last fall and a new battery last week, attempted to start yesterday morning, it doesn't turn the engine at all as I had power (dome light is on) then I tried a couple of times to start, it started immediately.  I thought the new battery might need to be build up so I drove it around for a cruise, about half hour then parked it, tried to start it - nothing (not even cranking - feels like a dead battery).  I gave it a couple of tries, it started up immediately.

I am not sure if it's even related - I had a local shop to rebuilt my 4BBL carb last summer which I wasn't happy with their service.  One day I noticed that the OIL/GEN/TEMP lights were not lighting up, I found a wire hanging in rear of the carb as I believe it was for TEMP so I plugged it back in, OIL/GEN/TEMP didn't light up at all.  Is this even related because my Monte didn't give me starting up issue before the carb rebuilding at local shop?  Or is it normal to get no start at times that I have to try it again and again?

Hope I give more information for troubleshooting assistance?

Rick

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Try running an added ground strap between the frame an engine block.  Also check for a good ground between the battery cable and where it connects.  If you have power from ground to your starter then it sounds like you may have a ground issue.

The other consideration could be a neutral safety switch but if it was that I don't think you would get power to the starter solenoid when the key was turned on.

rob

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The neutral safety switch and the ignition switch are two things I would look at along with making sure of a good ground. 

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I had the same issue, I replaced my starter with a ac delco starter but in the process I found that the wires to the starter from the coil were rubbed bare and were shorting out on the block. I replaced the wires and starter and all is good so far...good luck

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Check for a breakdown of the fuseable link connection. It's located near the voltage regulator, which feeds the main power into the ignition switch. That link is interconnected with the small junction block near the battery, (speaking from a '70 standpoint) that connection was a small blunder by the ingeneering at G.M. 🤔 Of course that's my personal opinion.

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Thanks all as I have several places to check - I noticed that my battery ground is attached to alternator bracket as I read somewhere it should be bolted to the engine block so I guess I will try that and check on wire from starter to the coil.

Where would I find the ground for neutral safety switch and ignition switch?  I see the parts but not sure where to check for grounding?

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On small blocks the negative battery cable is grounded to the alternator bracket. On big block cars it's grounded to the block. Thats the factory spots. 

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Go for a Wells VR715 voltage regulator, it's a solid state version of the original regulator.  The cap from the stock regulator can be transplanted to the new one to look original.

 

What are you running for electronics?  If you're 100% stock, you can stick with the 100 amp.  If you have an upgraded sound system, electric fans, electric fuel pump, etc., go with the 140.  If you upgrade the alternator, make sure to upgrade the rest of the charging system so it can actually use that power.  Read through this site to get some information on building a better charging system: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/chevymain1.shtml

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I was told that with a 140 amp you need to run a 12 gauge wire from the Alt to where ever it connects like on my 72 the horn relay. It will smoke the wire so I have been told. I had my Alt which was not original to the car  but read 65 amp one the housing rebuilt with the internal regulator and before he tore into it he tested it at 100 amps on his tester..

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I would run 8 gauge or larger from a 140 alternator, stock is 10 gauge.  I ran 4 gauge from my 145 amp alternator to a distribution point, then separate 8 gauge runs to the starter and the horn relay.  I also clipped the interior wire and ran it to that distribution point because it's shorter than to the horn relay.

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My plan is to keep stock, I read somewhere in this forum that it’s best to use 100 amps over anything less, can I just install the 100 amps without replacing anything other than the voltage regulator?

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I would still recommend looking at a larger charge wire, but if you're not running much more of a load than stock you should be fine.  Most people don't touch the wiring and only use the larger alternator to get a better idle output.

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