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Frankie1969

All new electrical for my 72

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Hi everyone 👋🏼 I’m about to start the tedious process of rewiring the entire car because of miscellaneous splices and half operating gauges and lighting via the previous owners. I just want to make it right and complete. I purchased a complete American Autowire 510336 kit and a Dakota Digital VHX gauge cluster. The reason that I’m reaching out is to see if anyone here may have some photos to expedite this installation. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

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I really don't have anything to offer right now but there are some very good builds on what you are up to. I am going to be looking in to this thread because I am going to be doing the same thing this year. I'm sure you will be hearing from some folks here on the forum.post-259-0-93319100-1480263543_thumb.jpg

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Wish I had something helpful to contribute here. I will be watching as well, as I could see doing the same. 

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I mounted my Dakota Digital VHX control box on top of the glove box right next to the speaker in the photo. It was somewhat tedious to install the digital display but well worth it. My son in-law is an electrical guru so he did all of the hard stuff.

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Hey Frankie!

I see the wiring kit you bought is complete, engine, interior and rear. It looks nice, I like that it has modern fuses.

Because you’ll be using the Dakota system, you won’t be using the under hood wiring for the oil and temp gauges. The Dakota wiring for those sensors will need to go through a hole you’ll make in the firewall. Volts, tach, turn signals, high beam, brake, fuel and tach signals can be picked up in the dash. Dakota Digital has optional modules to acquire transmission selector and speedo signals, you’ll need to run the wiring to the transmission.

The AAW kit looks nice but a lot of plugs are loose, un-terminated. As you’ll have a lot of crimping to do, I suggest you get the crimping tool for the Packard plugs as they’d recommend. I’m a fan of also soldering after crimping.

As you have a 1972 car, did this kit include the seat belt warning light wiring?

Don’t forget a few spare extra wires from the dash to the trunk!

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Frankie, assuming you ordered the kit for factory gauges, here are the color codes for the gauge cluster plug. This tells you what wires go where to the Dakota inputs.

gauges plug.JPG

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You’re the best Paul 🤘🏼 I should be fine when I have the dash out to see it all. I picked up 8-14 gauge wires, 2-Speaker wires, 1-RCA cable and 2- 8 gauge wires 👍🏼

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8 gauge is a little overkill for a Sniper system. It doesn't draw that much. An electric fuel pump can draw a bunch and should come off a separate circuit controlled by a relay triggered by the Sniper.

Fuel supply for fuel injection is important. Don't use an external fuel pump or one of those front mounted surge tanks. Here is the second best tank you can get: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18308/overview/year/1971/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo

You'll need 3/8" hose feed AND return lines between the tank fittings and the throttle body. If using rubber hose, make sure it's fuel injection pressure rated. Cover the hoses in the chassis with wiring split loom tubing. A 10 gauge wire from the fuel pump relay to the tank works great. Run it through the interior as you have everything open.

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Line lock is just a momentary button so no relay.

Today's exhaust cutout kits come with the needed wiring, some have a controller module.

 

What engine & trans are you using?

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350 SBC with 700r4. Next year I’m hoping to build a 421 SBC but it shouldn’t change anything. 

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A Rick's Tank's Restomod tank that accepts a modern GM fuel module such as from a ZL1 and a Vaporworx PWM pump controller. A modern fuel module keeps itself full with a siphon jet system.

 

The advantages are it's a non-return system plus the pump only draws the needed current to maintain pressure, which is much less that full power return style systems-which results in the added bonus of less fuel heating. The ZL1 pump is good for 830HP, a CTSV pump, which also fits, is good to over 1,000HP.

 

The disadvantage is cost, the three needed items are $1,200.00 or more.

 

The Holly EFI tanks or other "EFI" tanks with sumps, fuel mats, etc do a poor job maintaining fuel pressure when the tank is low due to the pickup becoming uncovered. Dropped fuel pressure in an EFI system, even for a few seconds, will stall the engine. The Aeromotive Stealth EFI tanks do a pretty good job compared to other designs-except a genuine GM fuel module of course.

Fuel module with corner pickups.jpg

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