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Pro-Touring '72


quarterbooty

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lovin this monte. wouldnt be surprised to see this in super chevy soon

 

A Monte featured in Super Chevy? kicking

 

I wouldn't hold my breath!

 

Seriously though, this Monte IS deserving of being in Super Chevy (aka: Super Chevelle/Camaro/Nova).

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Love the up grades to your car. Thanks for sharing. Just one question. There is no need for the stock springs to be retained in the car?? The adjustable shocks and springs hold the car.

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Thanks again for all of the positive feedback, guys! I'm glad you like it.

 

Just one question. There is no need for the stock springs to be retained in the car?? The adjustable shocks and springs hold the car.

 

No, the full spring is eliminated in a coilover setup. On the front, the spring is compressed between then the frame pocket and an adjuster nut that's on the shock body. Ride height is fine tuned by turning this nut up or down with a spanner wrench to increase or decrease the spring preload (raises and lowers the vehicle, respectively). Out back, it's a little different. The spring is captured between a cup at the top of the shock and the adjuster nut threaded onto the shock body. Ride height adjustments are similar to the front.

 

That said, the range of ride height adjustability is actually rather limited. You don't get the entire range of the shock body to set the spring compression. There are several reasons for this. In the front, you want the lower control arms to be parallel to the ground with the vehicle at rest and fully loaded to achieve ideal suspension geometry. This doesn't apply to the rear; however, in both cases you have to ensure that the shock will be operating within its travel range or you may over cycle it resulting in damage. I hope that addresses your question. Maybe it'll cause a few more. smile

 

Nick

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Definately well thought out! Its nice to see people doing thier homework and companies willing to lend a hand with planning instead of just taking money!

Great work, Ill bet it makes one heck of a difference

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That is a nice car. I have a 70 Shadow Gray MC. I haven't done anything to it yet. I'm waiting for all my parts to come in before I get started. Then I will proceed with the brake upgrades, interior, etc. So I far I have the E-Rod LS3 engine, a 4L65E trans, Hotchkis TVS and upper and lower A-Arms, a CCP Steering box, a flex a lite radiator with dual fans, a Rick's Tank efi gas tank BPR engine mounts and trans crossmember. I'm still waiting for the Currie Crate 9" rear end with true track LSD and 3:25 ring and pinion and wilwood rear discs. I'll probably get the A body Edelbrock dual exhaust header back kit. I'll have to get it modified since I'll have dual cats with the E-rod manifolds. For the interior I have a Covan's dash insert with American Muscle Autometer gauges since the E-rod system won't work with factory gauges. I also have the shiftworks 4 speed detent kit and lens so it looks like it came from the factory with a 4 speed auto. Once that is all complete I will have the seats redone, carpets replaced and headliner done. The body work was immaculate when I purchased it as well as the paint. I saved alot of money while I was in Iraq this past six months and every free moment I had I studied other people's projects on LS swaps. Now that I'm home it's time to get started.

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  • 1 month later...

A new Lee 670 steering box is on its way courtesy of Marcus at SC&C. I'll post install pictures and feedback once I get it installed. I'm looking forward to increased effort and road feel. I certainly won't miss being able to turn lock-to-lock with my pinkie.

 

Nick

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  • 2 months later...

The new Lee steering box is in, but I decided to work on the rear suspension first. I replaced my existing Metco trailing arms with Swivel Links from DSE. The OEM-style Hellwig sway bar was replaced with a DSE unit that clamps to the rear axle and terminates at the frame via end links. The install went relatively smooth, and I'm real happy with the fit and finish. I haven't driven it yet, but the rear end didn't fall out when I backed the car out of the garage. That's a good sign I guess.

 

IMG_0767.JPG

 

IMG_0768.JPG

 

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IMG_0770.JPG

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Nice pics, everything is so clean, I'm jealous. I like how the new sway bar mounts, that is cleaner than the stock style. Do those control arms have spherical end joints or something similar? I can't tell from the pics but you called them swivel links so I am guessing they have something different. Does the new steering box look like the stock one?

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Nice pics, everything is so clean, I'm jealous. I like how the new sway bar mounts, that is cleaner than the stock style. Do those control arms have spherical end joints or something similar? I can't tell from the pics but you called them swivel links so I am guessing they have something different.

 

Thanks. This type of sway bar is much better than the stock style because it doesn't bind as the rear end travels up or down. The effective spring rate is also much higher (and adjustable). The control arms have conventional bushed ends. The swivel link is located in the tubular member and allows the ends to rotate independently around the tube's axis. The file photo from DSE shows the location better. Where the silver meets the black is where the joint is at.

 

041603-main-pp.jpg

 

Originally Posted By: Heckeng
Does the new steering box look like the stock one?

 

I'll have to get a picture of it. It does look different. It's noticeably smaller (I think it weighs 6-7 lbs less), but all of the ports, mounting holes, and input/output shafts are in the same location as the 800 series box.

 

Nick

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here are some side-by-side pictures of the original Saginaw 800 box next to the Lee-built Deplhi 670.

 

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Here it is installed in the car. Although not shown here, I have the pitman arm back on and connected to the center link. I just need to finish making a new return hose (using Aeroquip TFE hose), and I'm done. Everything feels solid; there's no play when you grab the wheel. The box ratio is 12.7:1, and it's 3 turns lock to lock.

 

IMG_0779.JPG

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  • 3 months later...

quick question. how do i figure out what size tire and wheel i can run. I want atleast 20x10 out back. all of my suspension has been replaced back to factory. any help is appreciated

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quick question. how do i figure out what size tire and wheel i can run. I want atleast 20x10 out back. all of my suspension has been replaced back to factory. any help is appreciated

 

Only one way to be relatively sure:

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-01201/?rtype=10

 

What size tire/wheel/backspacing did you consider? Other members might have similar sized wheels....

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I already have billet 20" and like the way they look but they are only 8.5" . I was wanting to do 10" or maybe 9.5 with 4.5 backspacing. I have looked it up and they should fit but without enough tire I'm just not sure. thanks guys i will check out that link.

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