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Project TFTF Tokyo Drift monte


Stroker-383

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Hi all,

 

Its been a while, but i still have the monte, in my garage considering its winter. It is going to be a visual clone from the movie "The fast and the Furious" Tokyo Drift.

interior etc. is going to be all the same.

 

Last December ordered some parts at summit.

cragar15x8black.jpg

 

cragar15x8blackfront.jpg

 

partsheep1.jpg

 

partsheep2.jpg

 

partsheep3.jpg

 

partsheep4.jpg

 

partsheep5.jpg

 

hookersc.jpg

 

It's going to sound mean as hell!!:D

 

Still waiting for some other parts. ( - A arms front lower and upper )

 

Building in progress.

 

( Update: Got a small ticking sound in my engine bay since a couple of days, propably one lifter isn't moving, so ordered a set of lifters and a new hydraulic roller cam shaft...)

 

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Wow I guess you did get some parts there and more coming. Good luck with the project. We have a member that has the actual car used in the movie but hes selling it or maybe already sold it. I think its in the for sale section. Good luck and have fun with that project.

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Wow. Last time I saw a pile of parts like that it was on display under a christmas tree at the local speed shop.

 

The headers caught my eye...what kind are they?

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Wow. Last time I saw a pile of parts like that it was on display under a christmas tree at the local speed shop.

 

The headers caught my eye...what kind are they?

 

They are hooker headers,

 

for the tires, in the movie they use Goodyear Eagle Drag slicks, costing approx $300 a piece....

 

so that isnt working(after one set). also they are illegal here. So the tires will be 295 rear , and sprayed big letters on Goodyear eagle.

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Are you going with the 509 or 572 engine as well?

 

Also remember the roof was unpainted(!), you might consider a clearcoat on it to prevent rusting...

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Well, for the pictures , i have enough of them... laugh

 

Now, my girl is powered by a 383 stroker putting out about 420hp, thats at the flywheel , not the wheels. It has a stall converter ( not know what kind , still need to look that up, but it shifts amazingly fast and beautifull. )

 

I the future i want to buy a 502 cui or a 572cui and put that in...(crate)..but first,

+ rollcage ( exact replica of the tftf car)

+ Hoodcowl, homemade

+ interior sheetmetal

 

etc.

 

Well... i have the first setback already.. one off my hydraulic lifters is ticking (hanging) .. hope to get it ajusted..( how??)

 

If that doesnt solve the problem, i will buy a complete lifter hydraulic roller kit ... ( will this fit )

 

Thanks

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Nope,

 

The roof was raw steel with a clearcoat sprayed over it. Also about 20 inches from the bottom/up at the doors etc. are raw steel with a clearcoat.

pictures:

1971-chevrolet-monte-carl-2w.jpg

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Well... i have the first setback already.. one off my hydraulic lifters is ticking (hanging) .. hope to get it ajusted..( how??)

 

If that doesn't solve the problem, i will buy a complete lifter hydraulic roller kit ... ( will this fit )

 

Thanks

 

The first thing to do if something is ticking is check the rockers. Odds are one of them is loose and causing the noise. The quick and dirty way to do this is to remove one valve cover and start the motor (no oil will not shoot everywhere). Use a screw driver and push down on the valve spring side of the rockers one at a time and see if the noise goes away. If it does then you know which rocker need to be adjusted. Make sure you check both sides before driving into the motor.

 

If a lifter really is sticking then there really isn't anyway I know of to fix it without removing the intake and head on the affected side and polishing the lifter bore. If the lifter is stuck down in the bore there is a good chance it's wiped a cam lobe as well. This is something you will notice with the motor running and the valve cover off. Hope this is not the case.

 

Start with the rockers and see where that takes you.

 

Edit : There is one more thing you can try. If you determine that it truly is a stuck lifter. You can add 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crank and let let the motor idle for an hour or so but keep an eye on the oil pressure while it's running.

 

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Thanks for the information,

 

Was planning on checking the rockers first.. Maybe that is what's making that ticking noise. If ajusting the rockers isnt getting the ticking noise away, i will take the intake manifold off, remove the valve covers, turn engine to first cil. outlet , and remove all of the rockers en pushrods.(offcourse turning the engine every time for a different cilinder) Then will take out all of the lifters. ( a lifter cant be "broken"... it is only possible that a small amount of coal ( exhaust black stuff) is in the oil, that is making the lifter "stick" and not expand.

 

If this is the problem, i can clean them , but i'm thinking of buying a new set of roller lifters and matching pushrods. This will also take most of the friction between the camshaft and a flat tapped lifters away.

I am thinking of a set of roller lifters with a tie-bar attached.. is this better?( i guess because of the connection between them they are better stabilized.?

(+ But only when i can't get the ticking away with just ajusting the rockers )

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Lifters don't usually break, but I do know of one instance where one actually shattered. In normal cases when they fail the lifter face becomes cupped and the cam lobe wears on the nose. then cam and lifters need replaced. I would thoroughly check your exhaust manifolds or headers for leaks at the head. A leak there really sounds like a lifter ticking.

 

From your last post it sounds like you may be planning to possibly use roller lifters on your current cam. That will not work. A roller lifter must be used on a roller cam. The profile for a roller is totally different from a flat tappet profile.

 

Unless you are are using an engine block designed for a roller lifters you must use retrofit roller lifters with the tie bar. the tie bar keeps the roller lined up on the cam.

 

Hope this helps.

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Agreed. The two cams are also made of different material: the roller cam is made of steel, and the flat lifter cam is made of iron. Upgrading to a roller lifter cam is an expensive upgrade; you need to be concerned with anything and everything that runs against it, like the distributor drive gear and the fuel pump pushrod. You can't just upgrade to roller lifters without changing the entire camshaft!

Here is a picture that shows the two types side-by-side.

The roller cam is on the left with the big round lobes, and the flat tappet cam is on the right, with it's more pointy lobes. Because the lifter design is totally different the cam lobe shapes are also different....these cams are twins in every other respect, they have the same rated lift & duration.

figure2-2.gif

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Thanks for the information,

 

Was planning on checking the rockers first.. Maybe that is what's making that ticking noise. If ajusting the rockers isnt getting the ticking noise away, i will take the intake manifold off, remove the valve covers, turn engine to first cil. outlet , and remove all of the rockers en pushrods.(offcourse turning the engine every time for a different cilinder) Then will take out all of the lifters. ( a lifter cant be "broken"... it is only possible that a small amount of coal ( exhaust black stuff) is in the oil, that is making the lifter "stick" and not expand.

 

If this is the problem, i can clean them , but i'm thinking of buying a new set of roller lifters and matching pushrods. This will also take most of the friction between the camshaft and a flat tapped lifters away.

I am thinking of a set of roller lifters with a tie-bar attached.. is this better?( i guess because of the connection between them they are better stabilized.?

(+ But only when i can't get the ticking away with just ajusting the rockers )

 

If you can't fix the ticking by adjusting the rockers then try this before tearing into the motor.

 

Remove the valve covers and squirt mystery oil down each of the pushrods. The oil will run down the pushrod and onto/into the lifter. You'll want to do this a couple of times as you want to fill the lifter as much as possible and make sure the lifter bore is completely soaked with this stuff then let everything sit for a day. Put the valve cover back on, add about a quart of mystry oil to the motor and start it up and let it idle for a while. If this doesn't work then you need to get into the motor.

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OK,

What i dont get is, why if you remove your valve covers and start the engine you wont look like a "oil sweat and rigs" employee afterwords??..

 

You have oilpressure when you start your engine, and this oil wants to get "out".

 

Also, I saw a few vids, how to adjust your rocker rollers (pushrods). So , this weekend i will try that, also will make a vid on how it sounds right now, and afterwords;)

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If you wipe out a lobe or two. You should have a backfire through the carb or exhaust to go along with the ticking noise of a lifter or rockerarm noise. I wiped one out in my small block in my very first Monte and she backfired through the carb. I would then only run it on 7 cylinders.

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Last time I saw that many parts lying around like that was in a dream. My wife would KILL ME if I did something like that.

 

I'm not allowed to have dreams like that lol

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OK,

What i dont get is, why if you remove your valve covers and start the engine you wont look like a "oil sweat and rigs" employee afterwords??..

 

You have oilpressure when you start your engine, and this oil wants to get "out".

 

Also, I saw a few vids, how to adjust your rocker rollers (pushrods). So , this weekend i will try that, also will make a vid on how it sounds right now, and afterwords;)

 

The only oil that makes it to the heads in an SBC comes up through the push rods so there really isn't that much of it. The lip at the bottom side of the head will keep the oil from running out so all you will have to do is deal with a very small amount of splatter. I was surprised the first time I saw someone do this as I thought the same thing.

 

Isn't oil gonna shoot every where?!!!! just make sure the oil drain back holes are clear and not clogged so the oil can make it back down quickly.

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