bigtankjones Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I ordered a Body Bushing kit form OPGI. Payed $28 Shipping. This big box comes. I open it to find the small Body bushing kit box and the rest all packing paper. What a Rip! I shipped 2 interior door panels together by FedEx for $14 to a New member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I feel for you, though you know the routine. It happens all too often, and I hate to say it. The only way out of anything like that is to place a phone call. I agree the shipping charges are unreal. As far as the application is concerned that's a heads-up! Cause it can originate all the way back from the parts puller to the part# being wrong, cataloged wrong, labeled wrong, ordered wrong, so many factors. Stuff like that shouldn't happen, and I believe it happens cause hardly anyone cares. Today's standards are not the standards of yesteryear the whole system is freaking whacked.. I remember a time where things weren't so complicated.. what happened? I still mange to go to the parts counter.. when I can, but that's also starting to fade away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70mcarlo Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I rarely order from OPGI due to their excessive shipping charges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 I should had ordered. From Leo. Live and Learn. I say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 Spent the entire afternoon replacing the Body bushings. I have the left side all done. Does anyone know if the front 4 body bushings bolts at the firewall, "The square nuts" Are they suppose to be welded the mounts. I used a 1" wrench to hold the square nuts to loosen up the bolts. Everything came undone with no problem though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slaman Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Mine were not welded. Of course it didn't matter much as most of mine snapped when I took them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Mine were not welded either Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 not welded from factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 Thats what I thought. I only had one snap on the rightside. But is good. Thanks guy's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 Question? In the Body bushing kit. The 2 bushings that have no through hole in them. Where do they Go on the car. Everyone that is on the car have bolts holding them together. What gives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnte496 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Im going to do my body bushings as well did you have to jack the body up after you loosened the bushings ive never done body bushings before should have replaced them when i had the car torn apart. any tips or what to expect hopefully they come out without breaking bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 Yes. It just has to be lifted up enough to slide the old ones out and put the new ones in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim's 70 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 ummm...I believe they go above the crossmember that the rear springs would mount to... sorry...I dont have a diagram..hopefully you get the idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRDIRT11 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I just started on mine tonight. How the heck you tell which ones go where? Just a minute. I need another beer and maybe i can wing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRDIRT11 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 The ones im takin out r in terrible shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Question? In the Body bushing kit. The 2 bushings that have no through hole in them. Where do they Go on the car. Everyone that is on the car have bolts holding them together. What gives? They are kind of hidden above the frame portion which sits high and just fwd of the rear axle as others have mentioned. Originally Posted By: mnte496 Im going to do my body bushings as well did you have to jack the body up after you loosened the bushings ive never done body bushings before should have replaced them when i had the car torn apart. any tips or what to expect hopefully they come out without breaking bolts! If you want some info Have a look at the link below, it's my album documenting my experiences replacing the body mounts without a full frame off. Good luck and if you have some questions, ask away. <link to body mount replacement album> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 MG, I have a question. Or 12. Did you re-use any of your original hardware? It doesn't look like it. I also got the hardware kit from OPG, as well as the poly body mounts. I thought the hardware kit would include nuts as well as bolts, but it only had two nuts in it. It's been too long since I've had the body to look at, so I don't remember, but I think I'm going to need nuts for all the bolts, aren't I? And looking at this thread earlier, looks like I need square nuts for the front two mounts - is that right? Would a regular Ace Hardware or something like that have the nuts I need? And as for bolts, are Grade 8 bolts overkill, or is that what came factory? Sorry for the barrage, but I'm worried about showing up to pick up the body and not having the stuff I need in hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 I reused some of my bolts and washers. I didn't like how the new bolts in the kit felt sloppy when threaded into the body. Also the washers in the kit I thought where to thin compaired to the original washers. The 2 nuts are used for the radiator bushing mounts. All the nuts that are on the body are a square type with a cage around them to hold the nut in placed when thightend up. I only had one bolt break on me, In the right front firewall. And when I went to bolt down the left rear corner,I broke the Cage for the square nut. I had to cut open the brace under the car to access the Nut. I didn't want to cut a hole into my trunk floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Yeah, all of my bolts and hardware were junk. I don't even have them anymore. I got the kit because I needed the sleeves for the bushings, but it sounds like I should buy different bolts and washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 MG, I have a question. Or 12. Did you re-use any of your original hardware? It doesn't look like it. I also got the hardware kit from OPG, as well as the poly body mounts. I thought the hardware kit would include nuts as well as bolts, but it only had two nuts in it. It's been too long since I've had the body to look at, so I don't remember, but I think I'm going to need nuts for all the bolts, aren't I? And looking at this thread earlier, looks like I need square nuts for the front two mounts - is that right? Would a regular Ace Hardware or something like that have the nuts I need? And as for bolts, are Grade 8 bolts overkill, or is that what came factory? Sorry for the barrage, but I'm worried about showing up to pick up the body and not having the stuff I need in hand. Hi DJ, Yep, Ace is the place. My old hardware was junk and the hardware from OPG was cheap crap IMO. OEM bolts were grade 5 with special flange head, have not found these anywhere. At Ace the only flange head bolts I found were grade 8 (visible in the pic below). Likely overkill but high quality and look good and I did not see any grade 5 other than standard head bolts and I found those just chewed up the washers. The multiple extra washers were used for proper spacing to get a reasonable amount of torque on the bolts down without flatening out the lower rubber grommets too much and ensuring they did not creep out from under the washer The bushing kits don't come with nuts (except for the two for rad support bushings if I remember correctly) because theoretically you should be able to take the bolts out of the nut plates and cage nuts then simply put in the new bolts. Well with a salt car I was lucky and one of the nut plates survived, the other nut plate broke the bolt and all the cage nuts spun which required accessing the nut from the top. So in the disassembly process, if you had to cut the pax compartment floor and the trunk floor to get a tool on the nuts then you will need new nuts to replace those. If you were simply able to take the bolts out, the nuts are still in the floor held in place and you just need to put a new bolt in there from the bottom. For replacement nuts don't worry about square nuts. I don't even know where you would find any of that size, but I did not search for any. They were used in multiple locations not just the front. As I understand it they were used for two reasons. The first is ease of assembly in a factory setting as they were held in the floor by a flimsy cage which was tack welded inside the floor pan braces(see pic below) enabling the bolts to be quickly inserted from the bottom of the car. The second reason is that the wide thick surface of the big square nut distributed the clamping force across a wider area. To get the same effect I used grade C flange head lock nuts (fm Ace) with a piece (chunk) of plate steel. That's the black part you see under the nut in the second pic below. If you just try to use a washer you might find it starts to bend as the holes are fairly big. I hope that helps with your questions. Don't hesitate to PM me if I don't seem to be responding to the posts, I don't go through all of them. I just noticed this one as I was about to log off. Good luck and I can't wait to see updated pics. You are doing this resto the right way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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