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Poly Bushings


daberry

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I did some research before deciding, final decision was polygraphite in the front, stock rubber in the back. There were varying opinions out there but found enough that said it did not squeak and new poly is designed to prevent squeaking. Also ordered an extra tube of the special grease and used it liberally. Put them in about 3 years ago, so far no squeaks but I haven't driven all that much. Maybe the new polygraphite is better than the old at not squeaking, not sure, only time will tell. You can't go wrong with stock rubber though.

 

Good luck

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I think mine were from PST?? They advertised no squeak and they didn't for several years. Now I spray the heck out of them with silicone and they stop squeaking. It has been over 22 years since I put them in. Got the entire ft end kit with ball joints and tie rod ends.

Bruce

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Dan,

"impregnate the polyeruthane with graphite material"

Yep, that's what it said in the magazine ad (No inter web back then) and why I got them. I honestly didn't even think of a "squeak problem" with or without graphite when I was rebuilding the ft end till I read that.

Bruce

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I have them in the rear right now, and plan on the front when I get new tubular A-arms. Right now I have newer rubber in the front. I have not heard any squeaks yet but I do not drive it much and the big block and loud exhaust I don't think I would hear them anyway smile

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The pivot mechanism is different between stock rubber bushings and the poly bushings. The stock rubber actually flex to allow movement. Techically there are no moving parts to squeek.

The poly type of bushing are too stiff to flex, and once the inner cross-tube is torqued in place, the only place for movement is for the bushing to rotate around the inner cross-tube. THAT's where the liberal grease should go: between the bushing and the cross-tube.

 

Putting lubricant on the inside of the cross tube where the bolt passes through is of no use.

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I remember thinking "where's the change" so I can say I wasn't impressed. I also think my 71 lost some of it's smoothness and became harsher on bumps. (What a great memory, 22+ years and I still remember how it felt?)

Bruce

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The pivot mechanism is different between stock rubber bushings and the poly bushings. The stock rubber actually flex to allow movement. Techically there are no moving parts to squeek.

The poly type of bushing are too stiff to flex, and once the inner cross-tube is torqued in place, the only place for movement is for the bushing to rotate around the inner cross-tube. THAT's where the liberal grease should go: between the bushing and the cross-tube.

 

Putting lubricant on the inside of the cross tube where the bolt passes through is of no use.

 

Marc, just curious, how does that movement work for control arms with oval bushings?

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The oval bushings are the same: they still have a round cross-tube and a bolt thru the center.

 

One of the tricks for off-road vehicles is to loosen the bolts that go thru the bushings to allow more freedom of movement. It makes the suspension a bit sloppy, but lets the suspension move without binding. If the bolts are not tight, then the cross-tube DOES rotate around the bolt. If you use the book and torque the bolts to specs, the cross-tube gets squeezed and can't move.

 

Some bushings even have a cross-tube that has serations, or "teeth" cut in the ends of the tube so they really grab on to prevent rotation when tightened.

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Thanks for all the input. Are you pleased with the improved driving characteristics?? Dale

 

I am very pleased! I suggest you have good gas shocks and when you do your alignment, get as much caster as you can. (Guys on the Team Chevelle site told me about that.) I had this done on my very heavy 68 Camaro. On the highway at 70+ it takes bumps easily- just keeps tracking straight and it is nice and stable on curves. I find myself driving much faster now and not realizing it (think a cop would go for that story? smile )

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I believe it is important to not tighten the bolts till there is a full load on the suspension. So don't tighten the big bolts while the car is off the ground.

Bruce

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I believe it is important to not tighten the bolts till there is a full load on the suspension. So don't tighten the big bolts while the car is off the ground.

Bruce

 

this is true if using rubber bushings, if using poly bushings it won't matter

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  • 3 years later...

yea I know im deep in the history but im at the polly/rubber crossroads myself and was wondering if I could get some recent results/opinions. I always thought poly was supposed to be an improvement over rubber? everyone seems to hate it. If im going to be a weekend autocross racer wouldn't I want poly?

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Hey Brandon,

 

IMHO if you are going to be auto crossing poly would not deflect like rubber would. So my vote would be for poly, coil over shocks and oversized front and rear swaybars. UMI is a great source for suspension parts for our A-body's  and Ramy and the rest of the crew are very knowledgeable and can set you with what you need. Their parts are designed and built in-house. USA FTW!!

 

David

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