Sam (Bones) Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 use the schell rotella or the valvoline that Don sugested, esp if you put a new cam in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gprimm Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Fellas, I bought Rotella 10W-30 at Menards. $7.99 in a gallon container. George. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 DAAAYYYYUUUUMMMMM, I never had issues breaking engines in. (even with the cheap Wal Mart oils) Granted they were just average bored over .030" and hydraulic comp cams.......they must have been running on the edge of death with all this high tech oils and procedures. LOL But from now on I am changing my ways......I have always just pre oiled/pumped the lifters, pre oiled the engine as I turned it 180* and did it again, stabbed dist., and fired up at around 2K RPM's for 20 minutes. Then backed RPM's down and ran for another 20 minutes, changed oil/filter. Then road test.... I can't wait til I can go through my 350. Glad to hear about the Rotella oil, The company service truck runs that and I get the (6)1 gallon jug box, and only use 4 gallons on the truck. I can do my car too now!!!LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Red from the CompCam warranty department first told me about the "T" after I sent back my first .540 .558 cam early this year. I not only used it but he sent me a bottle of their break-in lube that I added to the "T". I use the "T" every oil change now. Have always been a Valvoline user and I see they have a diesel version also I may switch to next oil change with my Wix 2 quart filter. P.S. I did use the Rotella on the first camshaft too. Red also said that is one of the biggest cams they made and not to be surprised if it did not make the break-in again. So I used my dial indicator and set each valve individually leaving no room for error. Let me tell you pulling the inner springs out twice just to put them back in while the heads are on is no fun… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Richey Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Thanks, this will be very helpful...as I will be putting in a cam in the next 8 months or so, when I get some more $$$$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikstudie Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 A little trick I leand from an old pro.I would fill my motor with oil and before starting i fashioned a long old screw driver blade to fit into my power drill and before installing the distributor I would spin the oil pump gear to get oil to the top of motor.(works great) This would also work with your break in oil. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 Mike, even better if you do the priming of the oil pump then turn the engine over 180 degrees prime again and repeat a couple more times to get the oil in the lifter passages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 Guy's on a chevy V8 if you do not use a dizz housing it won't fill the lifter gallies. That valley between the two machined area's just above the dist gear is a oil passage crossover for the lifter valley's. With out the housing the oil pressure port at the rear of the block gets pressure but it blows out the crossover before filling the gallies or feeds the crank and bearings. This why when you see the "primer tools" with the shaft and a small puck to center it in the manifold it's not called a pre oiler!! Take an old points type diz and grind the teeth off the gear and pop the advance weight plate and points cam off and use it, works way better. Also you turn it in 90 deg steps for 2 full rev's in order to fully pre oil the rotating assembly. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikstudie Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 Don,didn't know that,very good info. Thanks! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 fyi Quote: OBJECTIVE: To provide information about the use of motor oils formulated with lower levels of zinc and phosphorus additives in flat tappet and camshaft style engines. ISSUES: Engine oils contain anti-wear additives. The most common anti-wear chemistry is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP), which is a combination of zinc and phosphorus. In 2005 the American Petroleum Institute (API) and International Lubricants Standards Approval Committee (ILSAC) instituted API SM and ILSAC GF-4 quality standards. These two standards are closely related, with GF-4 being viscosity dependent and API SM applying to all SAE automotive viscosities. API SM/ILSAC GF-4 licensed oils with viscosity grades 0W-20 & 30, 5W-20 & 30, and 10W-30 are restricted to .06 - .08% phosphorus, while previous API SL/ILSAC GF-3 oils were restricted to .1% phosphorus. There is concern that oils containing lower levels of phosphorus are insufficient in protecting the high-contact regions of the flat tappets and cam shaft lobes found in many older cars and high-performance engines. TECHNICAL DISCUSSION: During the development of API SM/ILSAC GF-4 the antiwear requirements of flat tappets were given particular consideration by the engine manufacturers and by the oil industry. Engines with flat tappets were used to qualify API SM/ILSAC GF-4 oils. The anti-wear requirements of these tests are severe. In one case where the same Sequence IVA engine test was used for previous higher zinc and phosphorus oils, the average camshaft wear limits were reduced, allowingonly 90(μm) max wear for API SM/ILSAC GF-4 oils compared to the former 120(μm) max wear limits. The results showed that API SM/ILSAC GF-4 oils protect factory designed flat tappet/camshaft engines just as well as previoushigher phosphorus API SL/ILSAC GF-3 oils. If the engineis new, rebuilt or is modified from stock with highpressure valve springs, proper precautions should be taken to insure long camshaft life. These recommendations apply regardless of the lower zinc and phosphorus associated withAPI SM/ILSAC GF-4 specifications. Lower quality lifters are increasing in popularity. Theselifters may not have the proper metallurgy to withstand long-term service or, in particular, the extra force applied by high-pressure valve springs. Lifter quality should be considered as a contributing factor where excessive wear or premature failure is experienced. RECOMMENDATION: For all new or rebuilt engines with flat tappets, proper assembly lubes and oil additives should be used during the break-in phase. These additives provide extra protection at the point of contact, helping the flat tappet face to properly mate with the cam lobe. Once the break-in phase is over, these additives should not be used. This includes the GM product E.O.S., which is an assembly lubricant only and is not to be used, as the label clearly states, as an engine oil additive. High-performance modified engines benefit from oils with superior film strength and anti-wear properties. The flat tappet/camshaft lobe interface is the one area in an engine that has extreme contact load. That load increases significantly where non-stock, high-pressure valve springs are used. The use of properly formulated engine oils for this application will help reduce wear and extend the flat tappet/camshaft life. There are many more ways to achieve good anti-wear performance than just using zinc and phosphorus compounds alone. Zinc and phosphorus are widely used because theyare the most cost effective solutions to achieve anti-wear properties. In addition to zinc and phosphorus compounds, AMSOIL combines "ashless" anti-wear and friction modifier additives with high quality synthetic oils to achieve truly superior anti-wear performance, including in flat tappet applications. AMSOIL 0W-30 (TSO), 5W-30 (ASL) and 10W-30 (ATM) are premium synthetic, API SM (gasoline)/CF (off-road diesel)/ ILSAC GF-4 formulations containing a proprietary combination of zinc and phosphorus, detergent and friction modifier additives to generate exceptional anti-wear properties as demonstrated in the four-ball wear test. These oils are recommended for use in newer and older engines with flat tappets in both stock and highperformance configurations. AMSOIL 20W-50 (TRO) is a premium synthetic racing oil for gasoline engines with superior film strength and anti-wear protection. It is excellent for street or race use in cars, hot rods, and trucks or boats. It is the preferred choice for highly modified, high horsepower engines. AMSOIL 10W-40 (AMO), 15W-40 (AME) and 20W-50 (ARO) are premium synthetic, API SL (gasoline)/CI-4 Plus (heavy-duty, on-road diesel) quality formulations. They are an excellent choice for those who desire diesel style engine oils recommended for use in both gasoline and diesel engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71monteme Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 don do you know if rotella add zinc to their synthetic oil? thanks for the info. thanh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 With the formulation change in Rotella oil, Is this still a good oil to run in a high performance engine with solid roller camshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Searsman Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 I know this is an older post, but wanted to reiterate using good oil with zink or a zink additive for older classic high performance engines... this new type oil doesn’t do the job...I added a zink additive to mine today “ Lucas.. recommended by my parts guy ...at autozone.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 Lucas has a oil formulated for the older cars. It's called hot rod motor oil it's not that expensive. Comes in 5 quart and 1 quart jugs. I'm going to use it this year. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Searsman Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 Great !👍🏻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 I use rotella diesel oil. High zinc content, no additives. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVC Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 I use the Lucas racing oil 10/40 with zinc.. (Summer), During the winter I use the 10/30 order it from Amazon…. I was told that the additive is less effective,,, Something to do with detergent levels in some oils,,, but I've used it with Valvoline 10/30. I'm a believer in Lucas products ,, I've used them for years in my Diesel pickup… Both are great oils as there are many others. Ed C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVC Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 8 minutes ago, MC1of80 said: I use rotella diesel oil. High zinc content, no additives. Zinc levels in many diesel oils have changed recently.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVC Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 My go to oils for all flat tappet engines .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarnette Posted May 29, 2022 Share Posted May 29, 2022 I have used Havoline 10W40 in my 71 since the late 70’s. It’s getting harder to find and I’m not sure of the zinc content, so I just ordered Lucas hot rod and classic 10W40. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarnette Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 Okay, I ordered Lucas 10W40 Hot Rod and Classic oil from Amazon 2 weeks ago and it’s still not here. They gave me the option to cancel my order, so I did. I have found these options locally, but I have used conventional oil in my 71 for 43 years and I don’t know that I want to go to a synthetic blend. Just looking for options. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 53 minutes ago, sbarnette said: I don’t know that I want to go to a synthetic blend. Just looking for options. Thanks! I've been using Brad-Penn synthetic blend oil in my Camaro & Monte. I think it's supposed to be the old Kendall GT1 racing oil that was dark green in color. Made for older cars with solid lifters, etc. The Z has a solid roller & the Monte has the LS6 solid flat tappet cam, both have worked well so far with this oil. I used to use valvoline racing oil many years ago, but then they reduced the additives and I got nervous with the solid lifters, so I found this stuff. Not supposed to use it in vehicles with catalytic converters due to the high levels of wear additives. I've been getting it by the case on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009I9C4ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://penngrade1.com/products/high-performance-oils/penngrade-1-partial-synthetic-high-performance-oil-sae-15w-40/ https://penngrade1.com/wp-content/uploads/PennGrade-1®-Partial-SyntheticMultiGrade-High-Performance-Oils-2019.pdf The price jumped $20 since I bought a case last October. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant MacPherson Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 I cut an old distributer years ago to prime my engines, has worked great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVC Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 36 minutes ago, sbarnette said: Okay, I ordered Lucas 10W40 Hot Rod and Classic oil from Amazon 2 weeks ago and it’s still not here. They gave me the option to cancel my order, so I did. I have found these options locally, but I have used conventional oil in my 71 for 43 years and I don’t know that I want to go to a synthetic blend. Just looking for options. Thanks! Sam,,, I just ordered 5 quarts from Amazon and it will be here Wednesday … I keep a couple of 5qt containers on hand at all times … I also use it for my lawnmowers and other equipment Ed C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarnette Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 5 hours ago, EVC said: Sam,,, I just ordered 5 quarts from Amazon and it will be here Wednesday … I keep a couple of 5qt containers on hand at all times … I also use it for my lawnmowers and other equipment Ed C Ed, Let me know if it arrives. I ordered mine two weeks ago on Sunday. It was supposed to arrive the following Tuesday but never came. If you get yours on time I’ll order again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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