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I have updated the body tag page with new images and more information to help people with decoding. If you see any errors please let me know. https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/resources/decodingbodytag/

I originally dropped it off at a friends body shop in December and he was going to work it in between other jobs, with a tentative completion date of around April. It was getting front fender patches, both rear quarters and wheelhouses and some rust repair at the bottom of rear window and some Mulsanne Blue color. But, Covid-19 hit and he decided to shut his shop down in March when Michigan shut down. So unfortunately it’s been on hold, til who knows when. So I got the 402 back from the machine shop in January, all freshened up. Nothing crazy, .030” over, heads rebuilt, crank just needed a polish, mild cam and Performer intake, trying to keep the cost down. Set it up on my run stand to break it in and wiped one lobe on the cam. I’ve broken in dozens of cams in my life, this is the 2nd flat tappet cam that I’ve had that went bad. So back to the machine shop it goes to get inspected, cleaned out and going hydraulic roller now. So sadly, my hopes of having the car done late this summer are pretty much gone, it’s looking more like next spring.

Wayne, I realize this might not be very clear. These smaller 18 gauge wires are for the trigger coil on the relay.

Thanks Paul! I did exactly as you said, and I am up and running! Worked like a charm! 😊

No blue vinyl roof in 1972.

I’m finally buttoning up my AC system. The new two pass condenser is done and I closed up most of the gaps with roofing tin. It’s been handy to have a roll of it kicking around! I have the original fuse box fed from a 30 amp fuse (I have a high power fuse block under the hood). It only feeds the body lights, radio and triggers relays for everything else (EFI system, fuel, vacuum & water pump, fans, etc). Last summer, I had a 20 amp fuse feeding it and it blew, the entire car died. 30 holds fine. Keeping this in mind, I didn’t want the AC system on the original fuse block. Although high speed is from the underhood inline fuse holder, all other fan speeds come from inside. At second from high fan speed, this looks to be about 15 amps. I rewired it to be fed totally from under the hood. A new relay over the glove box provides power when the key is on. I was actually able to pull out a 18 gauge wire from the cowl AC grommet and pull in a new 12 gauge wire. I also eliminated the anti-dieseling and blocking relays. The blower speed switch is bad. 30 bucks will get a new one. All I need is an engine in place so I can finalize the AC hose lengths.