Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/04/2020 in all areas

  1. It's done. It should fit great and there is room for adjusting the solenoid, besides the plunger adjustment on the solenoid. The bracket has bare metal in 2 places to ensure good grounding of the solenoid. Dan
    2 points
  2. The choke thermostat is the coil thingy that mounts on the intake. It closes the choke when the engine gets cold, then releases its pull as the engine warms up. Meanwhile, you have the choke pull-off that operates on engine vacuum that is trying to open the choke as soon as the engine starts. It's a tug of war between the two until the engine gets warm, and the choke thermostat gives up the fight. From your description, the two items are working, (or close enough) at the time you are having trouble. You stated that the choke closes as soon as you touch the throttle. That's good. Next, you turn the key and it cranks but doesn't want to start. At this point, the choke pull-off isn't in play, so that isn't an issue yet. So it sounds like either you have too much or too little fuel to get the engine going. Mine does as Bruce described...empty float bowl takes a lot of cranking to refill, then it runs fine until it sits for days again. I smile and assume this is part of the design so I get oil pumped throughout the engine before actually starting. LOL Usually, the well plugs don't get disturbed when doing a rebuild, but sometimes they start to leak down all by themselves with no reason whatsoever. Maybe taking the carb off and filling the float bowls then setting the carb over a glass bowl will reveal if the plugs are leaking. I looked at the Cliffs' website, and the well plug issue is well spoken of. He pulls them out, taps the holes with a bottoming tap, or a tapered tap for the secondaries, then uses marine-tex as a sealant and uses threaded plugs to seal the holes forever. He calls it easy but it sounds difficult to me. I worry about the resultant shavings from threading going places I can never access again. Most of the people posting were those that tried different epoxy types, or JB weld with only temporary success. I see there are replacement WELL PLUGS (The technical name for the part) available, but you have to drill and use a puller to get the old ones out. Who knows if the new replacements will work any better. I might try spray painting that area to act as a sealant next time, as it's thin enough to seep into where it needs to go, and might set up even if some gasoline is in those hairline cracks where the leaks are happening. Epoxy, paint, plugs, having Cliff do it...hmmm..any method will probably take days to dry or set or perform. Those pesky plugs can be a real issue.
    1 point
  3. Well sitting here with my "beer is half full" outlook glasses on........... I will say you've had great luck on returning items .......I always sweat that. As you've posted before, summit (in my experience) is great to work with, I returned 2 mis ordered u-joints and got full refund and wasn't charged return shipping. Keep plugging away dude, btw drive shaft looks great !
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...