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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/27/2021 in all areas

  1. And that's how it starts! Lolol
    4 points
  2. Thanks for your help I think the Z 23โ€™s will work just fine and be a nice upgrade.
    2 points
  3. Looking good! As you know that carb is fubar. Find, get, acquire, buy yourself a 750-800 cfm holley. You don't plan on racing it so I would say a 750 vacuum secondary carb. Not knowing the stall speed of the converter is also an issue. The converter may be too tight and that's why the car has a high idle. You won't be able to figure that out till you know the engine is running correctly. Start with a different carb. The one on there now is basically junk. Sorry for being blunt.
    2 points
  4. Iโ€™m only sharing my experience on 72 GMC C15 that had no power as it was simple a fuse that was blown and it runs fine after replacing the fuse And I mentioned one of first steps as I didnโ€™t say itโ€™s the only step ๐Ÿ˜
    1 point
  5. I used power stop on the monte seem to work well. I used Detroit axel on my truck they also work well. Kit comes with rotors and carbon fiber ceramic pads and hardware. I did replace the calipers on mine too with stock new ones. A little bit of break in time was required but so far there working very well.
    1 point
  6. ^^^^^^ That was funny ! Well since I think I see where your going i'll just say .........Pull the motor, bag it, and drop a new crate motor in there. Rebuild the trans and have a looksy at the rear gear scenario. No-one will ever know till you pop the hood and you'll still have a stock original 454 for later ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    1 point
  7. Take that holley off, install the new holley 750 vacuum secondary using the same linkage and fuel line. Some of the vacuum ports may be in different locations but nothing I feel you can't handle. Just make sure you use the constant vacuum port for the transmission modulator and the "ported" vacuum port for the vacuum advance on the distributor.
    1 point
  8. Told the wife Im spending 380. On a new carb. She said well if im going to ride in it I dont want it breaking down.. Id say permission granted from that statement ๐Ÿ˜„. So Yay, so you guys would unanimously agreed the previously recommend carb would be the best bet? This weekend Im taking off those valve covers and checking out the insides. Just a worry wart about clacking since I previously had a oil pump slowly die on a 5.4 ford.
    1 point
  9. Something like this will work fine, if you want vacuum secondary's. If you want, you could add an electric choke kit to it. There are plenty of options out there, but Holley's are pretty easy to work on and adjust. I've always used double pumpers, but never cared about fuel ecomony either. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-3310s?rrec=true EDIT: Tom's on fire tonight, lol. I need to type faster. ๐Ÿ˜†
    1 point
  10. The rocker arms could be loose. They could be roller rockers, where there will always be slight noise, the car could have a solid lifter cam where that noise will always be there. The get an idea, you would have to pull off a valve cover and see what's there. As far as carbs, I just purchased a ProForm 650dp for my son's 71 small block from Amazon. They had the best price. To be honest the carb not only looks good but it is working flawlessly and almost no adjustments were needed. Right out of the box it was set up. Except for the idle speed. Very impressed.
    1 point
  11. It should bolt right on. It didn't appear that the original one was modified as far as balance adjustments by the engine builder judging from the pictures you provided of both sides earlier. He DID need the flexplate when he balanced the engine initially, but he would have made the adjustments to the internal rotating assembly parts. That would be the correct way to do it, so there is no drama in the very situation you are currently in as far as the flexplate, and also a harmonic balancer if you ever needed to replace that. If it eases your mind, call him though. See if he typically modifies the flexplate when he balances (but again, your original appears untouched). You can bolt it on and don't look back. You may want to check the starter engagement clearance though, to minimize the gear tooth wear. Instructions for that procedure are easy to find. EDIT: Tom beat me to it, as I was typing, lol
    1 point
  12. Keep all original parts, Then build it the way you want it. Take a good look at Steve Lavante's SS( Monteman71) or Dan's '70 Z20 . Two fine examples , As nice as they come and built to have a lot of fun with. Definitely go with a hydraulic roller cam and never look back !!
    1 point
  13. Hey Eugene, can you be a little more specific ? Dead battery, car won't start, no lights ?
    1 point
  14. You did good. Great car, great condition. Great colors, great options. If it was mine, and it is not, but if it was..... Pop that engine out, go through it, add a small hydraulic roller cam, and let her eat. Thirty years ago my room mate had a 71 SS. Mulsanne blue, cloth black buckets, and a black hat. Early in ownership he broke a rocker and I pulled the engine. Simple stuff, just a light rebuild and added nothing more than a cam. Damn that thing sounded good.
    1 point
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