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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/2021 in all areas

  1. Grant, I like the thoughtful way you are pre-planning your dash project "snowball"! You already have a good list and a great suggestion (that I wish I had also done). Three more possibilities to consider: 1. If your heater core is original, consider replacing it as a pre-emptive measure because it is likely just a matter of time before it will start leaking anyway. I remember back in the late '70s when the heater core in my '74 Buick started leaking. I hauled out my Chilton's repair manual for advice and Step 1 was: "Remove the dash." Eight hours later, I was ready for Step 2. 2. If the original sound-deadening/thermal insulation that is on the upper section of the inside firewall is falling down or apart, it can be reattached with glue/tape or replaced with Snow King thermal insulating mat (or equivalent). I've done each method once depending on the condition of the original material. I also did the inside of the kick panels. 3. If your A/C or vent deflectors are in bad shape, now is a good time to replace or disassemble them for painting (I used Bumper Chrome on some). Good luck with your multi-faceted project!
    3 points
  2. Pull the speedo cable all the way out and squirt some light oil into it then add more on the cable as you feed it back in.
    2 points
  3. After all the great dash R&R tips I am going to pull my dash to do some upgrades and maintenance. I plan on repairing the clock relamping the instrement cluster (relamped last year, still not bright enough, going to try LED) changing the amp guage to volts going through the heater/ac controls to to verify all dampers and control working properly polish cluster face plate intall bluetooth and amp What am I missing? Don't want to go back in again! Please forward all thoughts. Thanks
    1 point
  4. Well, thanks to Mother Nature this install will be getting postponed... snow sucks!
    1 point
  5. I'm right in the middle of this too. I'm going to go for the insulation for sure. I'm going through the tilt wheel while it is out doing the steering gear too.New speakers for the dash!!
    1 point
  6. This is where I’m at. Nos 454 4 bolt block stroked to 496.comp cam #11-422-8 roller cam. .520 lift 218/224 duration at .050 so roughly 270 278 advertised duration. Cam is installed at 105 degrees rpm range 1,600-5,400. 781 oval port heads. 5 speed. I’m gonna replace the 3:31 with 3:73. 4 core radiator. I have to redo the buckets and rear bench. Is legendary the place to buy? Also, front and rear glass date coded. Where to buy?
    1 point
  7. I took the carb apart and checked everything over. After reassembly still did not run well. I opened the primary flap and it suddenly ran great. I put it in drive and still ran OK. I checked timing, set the fast idle and set the regular idle once it warmed up. I’ll have to wait and see what it does in the morning when I start it cold. It still seems to be running a little rich but at least it sounds good now.
    1 point
  8. Off topic but still part of the restoration process. This what I do for work. And this is what I picked up today. R89 dated code 71. It’s junk and the case is cracked but it has all the caps and the Delco eye in one of the caps. The top is perfect and so is the R89 sticker on the top. Gut,fix the cases and put a battery in it
    1 point
  9. Hello, does anyone have a pic of how the power window harness is routed in the door? thanks Sendo
    1 point
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