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If all goes as planned, then I will not sell. But it has also turned into a complete body makeover and paint job, which will take considerably longer, so it looks like it wont be ready GM Carlisle this year. I am a firm believer of "do it once, do it right". Once this is done, I want to enjoy it for 20 years. Well......they are never really done, plenty of mods planned in my head, but at least the car will be solid and rust free!!

Patience grasshopper, patience. Don't complain too much, "someone" will assign you some dancing bananas to cheer you up. rob

It was 52 at 10AM yesterday and by 12:30 it was 4, 37 at 2:PM and 21 out side now

Ya they look great. I would probably have done something like that if it wasn’t a restoration. Now if my 70 Chevelle turns out not to be a true SS then I’ll do some special things to that.

they tried to steal mine twice years ago. Once I came out in the morning (1973 when it was a daily driver) the hood was open and wires dangling under the dash they could not get it started. 2nd time (1975) they pushed it down the street, found it in the middle of the street with the hood up. Thank goodness I had installed a kill switch were nobody would think to look.

Sorry about the poor picture quality but here is how they look.

3M makes adhesive removers, that may work. I haven't tried it on your particular application but may be worth looking. They offer various types, including a citrus based aerosol one that seems to get good reviews. I used something similar when I was removing 50+ year old undercoating recently with good results (as well as wire wheels and abrasive fiber discs on an angle grinder). Google 3M adhesive remover, that should steer you in a good direction. For general adhesive removal around the shop I'll usually use brake cleaner, or DuPont pre-cleaner for body work (basically a Prep-Sol type of product). In your case, with all that dried on glue, those would require you always keep it wet to loosen it up. I tried those with the undercoating with fair results, but was pleasantly surprised that the citrus aerosol cleaner worked good, and stayed wet without constantly requiring re-application. Either way, it's sure to be a crappy job.

I'm in Plant City. Great area but I've been fighting city hall for 3 years to get a variance to build a garage beside my house. If you move here try to stay out of the cities. Here's the issue I live on what they consider a "corner lot" in the historic district. By corner there is a single car wide poorly maintained alley between me and the two neighbors on it. By being a "corner lot" not only do they want a 10 foot easement but another 15ft from that before you can build; that's 10 feet from my house. I only have a 15 foot wide back yard so no room there. I finally had to hire an attorney and he is getting frustrated with them now. Both neighbors have given me signed affidavits that they are more than OK with this (did I mention the guy behind me is rebuilding his first car (a Toyota 4X4) and the guy across the alley has a turtleback t body on an A chassis with a flathead 8 plus two other 1930's and 40's era cars in the back of his garage?). The city even verbally agreed to a smaller footprint so I reluctantly agreed but then they backed out of that. Of course there are developers violating all kinds of rules within 2 houses of me. I think me asking who they paid off so I could pay them off too may have had a negative affect on me LOL. One thing here there is a great car culture, year round cruises and shows, in fact we have a monthly one in Downtown Plant City called the Strawberry Classic Cruise in. Only 1996 and earlier cars can compete for awards but they allow any year / make / or model. We occasionally even bring the wife's highly modified 18 Camaro SS with our Modl A and / or Monte.

Probably the 50 year old spring has just worn out and weakened. I would try just replacing the spring first.

Well boys, I got the new booster installed today. BINGO!! It definitely was the issue. The car brakes so smoothly and easily now! So much relieved now lol. It’s like a whole new car. I’m not 100% sure there’s 0.020” gap between the pushrod and the master cylinder, but there’s no drag on the pads and rotors, so I know there is some gap. Also, I can feel the brakes take-up right after I depress the pedal, so I don’t think it’s over-gapped enough to cause an issue. I may drive it around a while and if I feel like I need to, I’ll make a small adjustment to sneak the rod a little closer to the cylinder. But for now, it feels and actuates nearly flawlessly!! Thank you all for your advice/input/help, it is much appreciated. What a cool group to be in! Happy cruising!

You could always go with the built in system. A high pressure tank (mounted next to your nitrous bottle) and a line to a couple nozzles under the hood. Just clearly mark which one is which.