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This past weekend. I installed the License plate I bought from the club store. Always wanted one of these.

Today I bought a couple new used tires from a guy locally, they’re $520 a pair plus tax new and I paid $370 for them! I currently have a set of very used ET radial Pros, these will at-least allow me to drive in the rain, and be legal to drive on the road.

I have a list around here somewhere. If I can't find it, I'll look when I get home later & post it up. It came from a Chevelle restoration book that was pretty decent. EDIT: I found a couple versions in my online drive. I tried to format it a little better in the Word document, vs. the .pdf file. Underhood Details This basic outline provides the colors that you will be working with. It will get you started toward a pre­sentable undercarriage and engine compartment. · Frame, front control arms, and lower rear trailing arms: semigloss black (if painting black, the upper trailing arms are flat black). Some plants did not paint the rear trailing arms or transmission crossmember, so these could be painted natural steel as well. · Rear differential: same semigloss black or natural steel, depending on the plant. · Front and rear coil springs: either natural cast iron or semigloss black. · Front and rear sway bars: semigloss black or natural cast iron. · Shocks: shock gray. · Steering linkage: natural cast iron. · Brake calipers: natural cast iron or semigloss black. · Caliper brackets: gold cadmium. · Disc brake backing plates: origi­nally galvanized steel. Bright zinc is acceptable when restoring. · Tie-rods: natural cast iron. · Tie-rod sleeves and clamps: natural steel. · Steering box (power or manual): natural cast iron with natural alu­minum top plate. · Firewall, wheelhouses, and core support: semigloss black. · Radiator: gloss black. · Radiator top plate: semigloss black. · Cooling fan: gloss black. · Crank, water pump, and power steering pulleys: gloss black. · Power steering pump: gloss black. · Power steering bracket: gloss black. · Upper/lower alternator brackets: semigloss black. · Alternator: natural aluminum. Paint Details · Alternator fan: originally galva­nized, but high-performance is bright zinc, low-performance is semigloss black. · Fan clutch: natural aluminum with gold cadmium center face and nat­ural steel shaft and mount. · Heater housing on firewall: gloss black (Kansas City plant sprayed undercoating over the top edge and face of the firewall). · Heater fan housing: semigloss black. · Air-conditioner dog house: natural black fiberglass. · Air-conditioner compressor and brackets: semigloss black. · Hood hinges and upper/lower hood latch: dark gray phosphate. · Most small underhood brackets: semigloss black. Exhaust manifolds: natural cast iron (special paint for exhaust). · Brake booster, proportioning valve bracket, and master cylinder cover: gold cadmium. · Master cylinder: either semigloss black or natural cast iron. · Proportioning valve: either semi­gloss black or natural cast iron. · Metering valve: either natural cast iron or natural brass, depending on plant. · Windshield washer pump: the base is natural aluminum and canister is bright zinc. · Horns: gloss black. · Voltage regulator: gloss black cover with galvanized or zinc base. · Ignition coil: gloss black. · Coil bracket: galvanized or zinc. · Distributor: natural cast aluminum. · Fuel and brake lines: natural steel. · Battery tray: semigloss black. · Intermediate steering column shaft: semigloss black. · Rag joint: natural cast iron. · Upper CV joint housing on inter­mediate shaft: semigloss black or dark gray phosphate. · Engine, cylinder heads, water pump, oil pan, valve covers (when not chromed), intake (when not aluminum), harmonic balancer: all Chevrolet orange. · Air cleaner (when painted): semi­gloss black. · Bellhousing: natural cast aluminum. · Transmission (both manual and automatic): natural cast aluminum. · Driveshaft: natural steel. · Fuel tank: natural galvanized steel. · Fuel tank straps: semigloss black · All parking brake cables: natural steel. · Bottom side of hood: semigloss black. CHEVELLE RESTORATION AND AUTHENTICITY GUIDE: 1970-1972 paint1.docx Underhood refinish colors.pdf

They are plastic like the originals and will complete the installation of the inner fender wells. They install from underneath. One bolt to the frame and 2 to the lower part of the fender well.

I bought these when i replaced the inner fenders 1970 Chevrolet Monte Carlo INNER FENDER SHIELDS WITH HARDWARE LEFT HAND & RIGHT HAND - PAIR | Chevrolet Monte Carlo Parts | BP1040M | DA10222 (thepartsplaceinc.com)

I'm going to order my Draggy next month and the Dr Dial-in app for when the season starts in April 😁

Wow, that looks great!👍

I will be sending out informational emails to everyone who I have on my list that are attending the Eastern Meet. I sent the first one out this morning. I will also start posting these emails here in this thread starting with the one I sent today. If you see one of these messages here that you have not also received in an email please let me know so I can get you added to the email list. Here is the email I sent out this afternoon: Good Afternoon, If you are receiving this email it means you have indicated to me that you are planning to attend the upcoming Eastern Meet in Carlisle, PA. You will be receiving some upcoming informational emails so everyone is on the same page. Please keep in mind that all of these emails will be "Group Emails" going out to at least 50 of our members. If you are going to respond to any of these emails please DO NOT select "Reply To All" for your reply. I request this so we are not hitting all of these members with unnecessary email replies. We will have a number of members who this will be their first Eastern Meet in Carlisle. I expect these members may have more questions than members who have attended multiple Carlisle Eastern Meets. These informational emails will attempt to cover most questions that may come up. If anyone has any questions please feel free to send those questions to me and I will answer those questions. If I feel thes questions presented to me need to be known to others I will reply to these messages to the whole group with the question and answer. What I will try to do when I send these emails is copy the content of the informational email and add it as an attachment you can print out so you have it for a reference. I will also try to remember to post all of these informational emails on the Eastern Meet Forum on the club website. I am heavy into the runup planning of the meet doing things like printing our club judging forms, designing and printing our club dash placards, preparing the member’s name badges, gathering door prizes, arranging for a location that can accommodate over 100 people for our Award Dinner and many other things. I will also be reaching out, in some of these emails, looking for people who are willing to volunteer to assist during the meet because for a meet as large as this one has turned out to be assistance will be needed. I have already had some members offering assistance which is wonderful. As of today we have 54 member registrations. As always, I do expect a cancellation or two due to unforeseen obstacle’s but I also expect to hear from some new registrations. I am really looking forward to seeing you all at the meet. Rob Peters

Not to much on the monte other than working on hood some but it's a holy crap kinda day, went outside this morning and it's almost 40 degrees colder than yesterday and went to body supply store and the paint will be $366.00 for a quart not to mention the clear will be $95.00 with activator primer is only $55.00 guess that blows my budget all to hell. Also stopped and looked at a truck, 2018 Silverado 2500 with 100k miles $54000.00 holy crap! Think I'll just stay in for the rest of the day 😂 nothing wrong with my truck anyhow and it's got less miles too, not yet 100k

This had been a problem for me when I purchased my 72, but did not understand why at times did work while other times didn't. Not my daily driver so after sitting awhile, gauge would start acting up and finally realized there was corrosion on Fuel Sender Unit causing Fuel Sender to stop moving. I would take car out and slosh fuel in tank by revving motor, rocking car back and forth until gauge reacted and over time, no more problems. Since I have used the fuel stabilizer to help keep moisture out. Might be worth a shot checking before pulling tank. I believe if vehicle sits for a period of time, this issue is probably somewhat common for older cars and has been over 13 years since that issue surfaced. Doug

Give me a year... 🙂 I plan on doing some Optima Search for the Ultimate Street Car events with my wife in her Camaro once the Monte is finished. Autocross is one of the five events.