Leaderboard

The lower stop is just for the down position. rob

My work has been very very busy. I’m tired! I’ve had little time to work on the car. Where I’m at: I have my 496 shortblock assembled, Bullet cam is slapped in and the Flotek heads were flowed & ported a bit, port matched and filled with Manley severe duty components. I added pairs of boxer fans to the oil & trans coolers behind the grill. As much prep work I did to the stock evaporator box, my arm was twisted by a friend who says the Vintage Air system works just as well while eliminating the box under the hood. I’m doing it. I’m covering most of the firewall with some 3/16 aluminum I had, it’ll be powder coated. I had to pull out the right fender well-it’s steel. Although being about five years old, it’s actually starting to rust on the inside rear. Both have holes from hose stuff that I can better locate within the fender. I’m ordering a new set of fender wells-and they’ll be powder coated. As the dash needs to come out to do the AC box, and there was more arm twisting, I’m gonna get the Dakota Digital cluster to do at the same time.

This is under the dash, on the firewall inside the car. The nut is a little loose, wondering should I tighten her up? im down there looking for the seat belt buzzer so I can destroy it!

Considering the mess the previous owner left under the dash, I'm amazed what did work.... The information I've gotten here has been a big help.

I'm impressed with the double snorkel you added. That's one of the reasons I'm considering changing carbs. The double snorkel air cleaner I have won't fit on my Edelbrock since I added an electric choke.

Congrats Dennis Thats a great one to restore. Original drivetrain also, it's calling your name. The rust around the window is way less than mine had, and she will be beautiful when done. Looking forward to another restoration thread. John

I have been using that site for years DragCat, and it is mostly up to date and accurate.

Joe, Please don't think I am dissing that car if that is the route you want to go and if the big-block is important to you. I think part of what I was thinking about when I posted what I did is when you and I spoke live you indicated you had thought about flying down and driving it back and you also indicated you wanted to find a car you could drive to the Eastern Meet coming up in 9 weeks. That is why I pointed out what I did. I have always said that when buying anything a good deal is when the seller and buyer are both happy with the deal. rob

I think after you remove the door panels you can adjust the lower window stops or even just remove them temporally till your finished. I can't find a picture to show you where they are. 1 or 2 per door? I don't remember but I think 1

Not sure but I think it is the attachment point for the windshield defroster ducts. This is mine from my 71 NO A/C. Seat Belt Warning buzzer.................. Good times!!!

I believe the seat belt retractors have the wire in them that would signal if belts are clasped. By disconnecting wires, I think that would kill the Buzzer, I think. Doug

Here is my 71 350. I added an extra snorkel on the left (driver) side since I don't have A/C. I removed the TSC system. I added Cruise Control.

Busy at work means you have a fat wallet. I guess you’re going to take care of that. Lol.

Yes usually that's where they are. Originally they were clipped to the top of the column but after a few years they were just hanging there somewhere.

Flasher unit sounds like it's wearing out. It's the round brass thingy at the top left of the picture. I found removing the seat and easy fix for access, if I'm going to be there a while. Otherwise, I have a platform that's just a touch lower than the floorboards that I put beside the car and can lay on for quick fixes. This "old thing" can make one fairly innovative.

Yup I thought about that too, I got a new one and looked for the flasher in the car but I canf find it. I've looked a few times guess I'll look again. Getting under the dash isn't as aeasy as it used to be.

Out with the old and in with the new, I think I like it. Also trying to track down what I think may be a grounding issue causing the turn signals to blink to fast. No luck with that. Still unable to figure that one out. But they work just blink to fast.

My Canadian air at the lake was pretty good today. 😁

Lucas has a oil formulated for the older cars. It's called hot rod motor oil it's not that expensive. Comes in 5 quart and 1 quart jugs. I'm going to use it this year.

That is the correct bolt to adjust distributor. May have to tap to get it to move. There is a gasket under it, gets sticky from that and also if oil has not been changed in a long while.Did you drain oil,new filter,1 quart transmission fluid, 4 quarts 30 weight, run engine to temperature for20 minutes ( no driving). Then Drain that oil, change filter, add your good oil, (I run Valvoline VR1 ) high zinc content. That trans fluid will clean any sludge in engine. No more the 20 minutes at temperature. I let it drain overnight. Should be good to go.