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3 of us at a local cruise in yesterday helping raise money for a local Labrador Retriever Rescue

The 71-72 Monte/ Chevelle mirror pedestal casting # is 32155. The housing is #32153. The base gasket for Monte is 9872030 and base gasket for Chevelle is 9872029. The Nova and it’s counterparts (pontiac Ventura etc.) has a pedestal with casting #32485. It has more of a angle than the Monte/Chevelle pedestal, but not as much angle as the pedestal for the 70-81 Camaro. Also the remote cable is about 4” longer on the Monte/Chevelle than the Nova and the Nova pedestal can be easily identified by a X on the backside of mounting screw hole for the driver and a O for the passenger side. The pedestal for the Nova is straight where the mounting screw hole is, and curved on the Monte/Chevelle.

Yes my car is night and day to what it was stock, time to work on the rear but I still want to keep the air ride that was stock. Not sure how that will work. nothing terrible about the stock parts (usually lighter than tubulars) that can't be changed in a number of ways. I needed new spindles and A arms anyway so I went the way I did. You can accomplish the same geometry gains by using tall ball joints but it is a compromise with the stock upper arms. Also bump steer isn't the greatest with the stock spindles, not that big of a deal though. What's nice about the JGC box is it is stiffer than the stock box (heavier "T" bar and not a variable ratio) and about $35 in a salvage yard. Need a different rag joint and need to convert the hoses to the metric fittings in the box, no problem the stuff is readily available. If you really want to remain "stock" the guts will fit inside the original casting. Don't use a TA box as the internal stops are different, you won't be able to navigate a parking lot (but you can change the stops). There is a lot of interchangeability (inside and out) in the Saginaw box that the aftermarket takes advantage of at the expense of your wallet (worth it if you don't want to or can't do the work). Plus the general hasn't made these things in years so it is nice that the aftermarket is filling a void. Be wary of part store rebuilds as you can't be sure of what "tune" is inside. rotin

It's been 27 years since I had my previous 1970. Found a replacement last week, it's in good shape just needs some personal attention and some Bigger back wheels and tires.. lol 383 with 700r4, and 3.73 posi. Plenty of giddy up and go. 3291.mp4 3291.mp4

If you want reliability, of which, I can't complain about Holley, go with the Edelbrock but know you will be leaving alot of power on the table.

To clarify, some are talking about the rear glass/ back window and some are talking about the rear quarter side window. 2 obviously different style windows.

not really on my Monte but related to one of my displays at the show fields. I have a 1:25th scale model that the drivers side front wheel broke off of. I went to Hobby Lobby to get some model glue and was shocked at the price of it now a days. $2.69 and I can remember when it was $.29 and maybe $.49 but never in my dreams did I think it would be that much. Oh well it is now repaired and ready for the next show.

Looking good!!

For performance I prefer a Holley.

Very nice, are all 3 members of the FGMCC ?

Very nice.

Holley if you want it tuned up 100%. Edelbrock if you want to slam the carb on and send it.

Can’t wait. Mindy Monte is ready to go!

18 First Gen Monte's is a sight to be seen in it's self !! That's a fantastic turn out . I bet with a little effort, you will have really unbelievable numbers next year. Summit Motorsports Park is a fantastic facility. And the Kalahari resort is rather close by as well !!

I'm not sure it's physically possible to put the window in backwards, there are subtle compound curves that would stop it from laying flat.

I'd go with a Red Head Steering Gears box. They are a bit stiffer feeling, like a modern car and have a quicker ratio. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/

I can recommend what to look for and what to avoid in speakers: Avoid oval speakers, they have a lot of distortion from the cone being twice the mass on the long sides. These cone auto speakers are small and they have no problem reaching up into the midrange frequencies. There's no need for anything more than a two way design, a nice woofer and a single tweeter. IOW, a two way design. I love these "four way" speakers that have just a tiny silver dome as a tweeter next to a bigger tweeter but it's just for show. Find a speaker set with an external crossover in a small box. It'll have the needed chokes, caps and resisters that tune and match the woofer and tweeter. The cheap stuff just has a cap for the tweeter. Unfortunately, this is only found with component speakers where the tweeter is separately mounted. To get around this, you can get a 6 x 9 adapter plate that takes a 6-1/2" round woofer and a tweeter mounted side by side. There's a handful of decent 4 x 6 plate speakers. Find a speaker with a substantial tweeter in it. A one inch titanium, aluminum or soft dome. It should have a phase disc blocking the center of the dome. Avoid a Mylar dome. A recent trend is to put two identical speakers side by side on a single plate. This causes all kinds of lobing at certain frequencies. Magnets and voice coils. Like some things in life, bigger is better. None of these speakers-even the big 6 x 9's, have any real bass. If you try to turn up the bass, you'll overload them and maybe blow them up. Get one of those compact powered sub cabinets you can hide away in the trunk. Then turn down the bass to the smaller speakers.

No just me