Leaderboard

I finally had a chance to wash the body of the car and take some photos on the sun.

I got my current jack for my birthday a couple years ago to replace my 30 year old jack. I got a harbor freight low profile 3 ton quick up. I do think most of us would not get under a car without jack stands. After I get mine onto the jack stands, I even put the floor jack under the area I am working. Here in Pittsburgh, just recently, a young man was killed when the car he was working on fell onto him. Just a note, my harbor freight jack doesn't drop down at all after I get the car jacked up but it is still what I consider fairly new. rob

Looks like mine only a different color, got mine probably 20 years ago at harbor freight still works. I left it out over the winter one year I sprayed it with pb blaster and has worked fine ever since. But no Matter what I always use jack stands though.

Glad to hear it Dennis, I though it was going to spoil our Carlisle plans. rob

Hmmm. This is an hour from the house, Carlisle is 8 1/2. Decisions decisions. O well Carlisle it is. ( they have a swap meet too) and better company. Not to take anything away from the other show, GOOD choice Dennis!!!! Wouldn't be the same without you!!!

It says 71 to 74 except 350. My 71 350 had that pump on it I think it was original but not 100 percent sure. Adds more confusion to the conversion lol.

Carl, i agree with Joe. You will have to lift the body up off the frame about 5-6 inches in the rear to get the pre made lines in place. Not sure how bad your lines that you want to change are, but i dont suggest piecing them either. Depends on what your plans are, meaning if you plan on cleaning and painting the bottom floor pans and frame, take it apart. If not, make your own lines for now, then when your ready do everything. This snowball is up to the cars shape and what you want out of her. Good Luck and keep us posted! I remember when i restored mine i forgot the lines and thats what i had to do!!! (learn by mistake) or as we say 1 step forward and 3 steps back, in my case,

slowly dropping down can be an indication that it just has air in the system and needs to be bled. You should be able to find bleeding procedures on the world wide web somewhere. Cheaper than a new jack, right?

There's something in the GM heritage archive files too that has spring rates, I seem to recall. Heading out for the evening, I'll look later. You can look here though in the mean time, you may find it, or if nothing else, there's a boatload of great info here. https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/resources/gmheritagearchiveinfo/ EDIT: I had a couple of minutes. Here are the spring tables from the archives. Something to look at when matching spring rates against replacement springs.

I repaired my own before which was no more than replacing seals (internal and external) and bleeding the ram, but I had help from a hydraulic tech who lived next door at the time. Back then repair parts were actually a thing. (1985 or so)

They can be repaired, but typically it depends if it's a good, name brand quality jack. If it's a cheaper, Chinese jack, your luck of finding parts or a place to repair it decrease rapidly. We have places in Buffalo, NY that repair stuff like that, and they won't touch the cheaper stuff. They say they can't get parts (seals, etc).

Hmmm. This is an hour from the house, Carlisle is 8 1/2. Decisions decisions. O well Carlisle it is. ( they have a swap meet too) and better company.

So, as you can tell "Barn Find" has been sleeping for a looooooong time. WELL, she's awake! Lol. Found her in a slumber in a garage with a 71 SS454 Monte Carlo, a 69 GTO rag top and a 70 SUPER BEE! She fired right up and was eager for a ride in the fresh air. Got her to our place of repairs (Kevin's house) and immediately took inventory of the trunk full and back seat full of parts waiting to be installed. Started off with putting the latest, greatest updated registration sticker in the window. Lol then installed the 2 sport mirrors I painted a few days ago. The original drivers mirror was literally black in the center portion of the lens and the passenger side was old, crusty and just wrong. Lol. Also lubricated the window regulators and motor while the door panels were off. OMG what a difference! The windows go up and down like lightning compared to how they were. Lol

Looks like the oval neck could have been used up to 1974. Looks like mostly big blocks and some 6 cylinders too. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/chevyiinova/parts/PS6182.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIluGT6aHz_gIVhefjBx0tzAgSEAkYCSABEgJ62_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I've tried looking into it in the past, because I always predominantly saw big blocks had the oval neck & small blocks had the flat faced reservoir, but that has been a hit or miss thing it seems, lately. I wish I could find one good, reliable source of info, but that has so far eluded my searches.

Wrinkle??? Both my 70 and 71 big block have the strait oval necks. Who knows??? Lol.

I saw the title and thought you guys were crazy, taking the Montes to a swamp. Maybe do some mud bogging? Lift kits, mudder tires, that kind of thing. Glad I read it wrong.

Typical everywhere

Agreed!

I’ve got the same set up… ‘70, big block, AC, power windows (I’d think this additional weight wouldn’t be much of a determining factor, if any). I’m the guy who tries to bang round pegs into square holes and routinely uses butter knives to remove screws, so my mechanical knowledge is - shall we say - a tad limited. That said, here’s the front and rear spring codes per my Build Sheet. Plug these (‘GQ’ front, ‘BM’ rear) into the Interweb and see what you find.

I think it would make it out there, but roundtrip is about how much I drive it a year. 😏 Thanks for all the replies. I will definitely give Leo a call next week. Have a good weekend everyone. Conrad

Bring it on down! We ain't skeered! 😂

I have plenty of work for you to do, and I'm closer 😁.

I finally broke down and decided to change the radiator hoses. I’ll keep the original hoses with the car though. I also replaced the heater hose that was a little short in my opinion. Looks better now.

Call Leo either he will be able to help or possibly point you in the right direction. Not sure how far you are from him.

Best source of info like that is to go to your local cruise nights and talk to car guys. I can pretty much say for certain that someone in the group knows a place to get your car worked on. Car guys always seem to help each other out.

I seem to remember posting something about it in the past to her on FB, about the dates being the same weekend. Maybe it was about this year's event.

I feel your pain. Lol. Just remember all parts are good to have “ in stock “ you’ll never know when you’re going to need them.

Ya that’s Julie. We told her before she ever booked it. Can’t compete with the GM national.

Got a message from someone inviting me to it but I said same weekend as Carlisle and she said they may change the date next year.

Here are some body work pictures. Notice my OPG hood.

We are currently at 31 members attending which would tie the record for the most members at a Western Meet set in 2019. Members are coming from Alberta, Arizona, British Columbia, Colorado, Montana, Nevada, Oregon, Utah and Texas.

Well got 3 sport mirrors painted black Monday and assembled today. Painted another set of sport mirrors Nevada silver today for "Barn Find"

Well, domestic issues keep getting into my way but I'm making progress. Got the compressor manifold installed and the last condenser line connected on the drivers side. Now for the passenger side. Was able to get the front side line broke loose and disconnected, but CAN NOT get the back side line to break loose. 1 1/4" and 1 1/8" nuts on the two fittings and I mean I have been horsing that thing and it will not break loose. Tried PB Blaster, Freeze Off and can't get it to break. Soaked it good in PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, hoping that it will break loose this afternoon. I saw that the lower line had what appeared to be an orifice in it. I tried to pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers but could not get it to come out and was afraid I was going to break it so left it alone for now. I thought maybe I'd pull it out and clean it at least, but figured I'd leave it alone rather than break it. Started to put the new battery tray in and decided to pull off the lower bracket and blast and paint it first. Ready to install the new belts and got the correct size battery for the car, 78 series with side terminals. I think 1970 was probably one of the first if not the first year to have side terminal batteries. Now to clean up the wires and put new posts on them. Sure hope I can get that big line on the back of that RCVR/DRYER loose today!!!! May have to get some heat on it. Film at 11:00........................

Grasshopper, eh? What’s next, Mr. Miyagi? You gonna instruct us on the proper methodology of wax on, “wax” off? I’ll bet you’re a pro at that. I ain’t scared.

Oh I’m here… just exercising the ol’ “pick and choose your battles” approach.

So your car is a non-a/c car? A/c cars with am radios had the "stereo" style dash pad. 2 speakers, one on the driver's side and one on the passenger side. That being said, yes it is possible to install an am/fm stereo radio. Obviously in your case you would need the "stereo" front speaker brackets, speakers and wiring, matching dash pad, rear speakers and wiring as well as the speaker grilles if you are going for a "factory installed" look. If you really wanted to keep your single speaker dash pad, you could install 2 small speakers in your dash where the single speaker was for a stereo system but obviously won't get the same sound as a stereo

Took my car to the store today and of course parked a ways away from anything of course this is what I came out to find. I hate people. 😒