Grease

That's fantastic !

Fit ? well of course it will . But 18" square hole in the floor might be more then the average shift boot will cover . From memeory of all the trucks I have had I would say the botom of the case of a 465 or the newer MM version is probably 2 inches lower than the automobile 4 speeds . The top of the shift tower would be about 4" higher. 1st gear is not synchro but you can pull a freight train if you have the traction .

Was the car built in Europe? When the Monte came out in 1970 disc brakes were standard equipment . This was before the Chevelle had them as standard . I think another A body needed a brake upgrade and your car got the parts swapped out before a trade in or sale. Sorry this does not offer any help to your question.

15 X 6 or 15 X 7 doesn't change the length of the center cap. The wheel center is at the same place on the hub/axle.

take a look at the shift cross shaft from a Caprice or G body Monte that came with a 700R4. It has a longer offset where the down rod from the column connects. If you cant install the later cross shaft(I think it will swap in) , modify the one you have . The longer offset from the cross shaft slows the rotational movement which is needed because of the extra detent position in the 200/700 trans.

The lock up on my 70 will lock in 4rth. the unlock function is wired to the brake switch which opens the power circuit . ITs a double pole brake switch . Like Robert I also have a toggle switch to prevent lock up .

There are a few places that could leak unless there is a cracked housing or seam split in the torque converter . Heres the places I can think of on a TurboHydromatic 350 1 Front pump /input shaft seal(pump to case O-ring not likely) 2 shift shaft seal 3 dip stick tube O-ring 4 vacuum modulator/O-ring 5 speedpmeter O-ring 6 extension housing O-ring 7 driveshaft/output shaft seal 8 oil pan 9 govenor cover )O-ring 10 detent cable O-ring 11 Oil pressure switch On the TH350 I prefer the later dip stick tube (TH35c ? ) because it uses a grommet type seal rather than just the O-ring of the original 350 tube . On the TH 400 should be similar except it has no detent cable . Instead it has an electric wire plug . Also the Govenor cover is bolted on unstead of press in .

Hello Chris and Welcome to the forum . On the dome light , have you tried to light it by turning the headlamp switch , I believe all the way counterclockwise .If no power when using the headlamp switch , the switch may be bad . If its not getting power when you open a door check right at the door switch . This push button switch provides the ground when the door is open . I have seen the swicth contact become corroded. The switch is screwed into the bulkhead /door hinge area .

My first 70 came with the 300HP/Turbo350 and 2:73 axle . Everyone talked about how good a 400 is ( not disputing that ). So as a young whippersnapper , I thought I just had to have one in my Monte . I had GM dealer mechanic build one for me . Installed it , thinking how good this was going to be . The car never performed as well as it did with the Turbo350 . Yea I was a kid and didnt realize what I had done ,or should have done till after I sold the car . The 400 has a higher first gear ratio . This works fine with the big block torque monsters that have a 400 standard . It just didnt work with my small block and 2:73 gears . Had I changed to 3:42 or maybe 3:73 I am sure I would have been happy . So consider what axle ratio you have,what HP your working with .

With the engine ,running have someone acclerate while you feel the exhuast gas out the tail pipe. Does the flow increase greatly ? If this car has been sitting 20 years the exhuast could be plugged /rusted severly and not flowing exhaust out . I have seen exhuast pipes which were double walled pipe and the inner pipe can rust thru and collapse internally . This was on other GM products of late 60s early 70s vintage . I dont know if you have a stock (original )system in place or if the Monte even had this double wall pipe back in the day . Like I said I have seen it in other GM lines in that era.Just something else to consider .

I agree with looking on Craigslist or similar local swap listing/bargain barns/pawn shops. I prefer the gas units over the flux core but thats just my opinion . You wanting to practice is the best thing you can do before jumping onto a panel of your car .

I dont think there is any problem with your tranny. I agree with the cable being your problem . Hopefully its as simple as it came unhooked from either end and didnt actually brake the cable . Also the outer cable attaches to a bracket with 2 bolts to the trany pan rail . IT could have come off there. If it's like my 70 and has the "backdrive " mechanism still in place, You might be able to shift it into park by grabbing the shift bowl on the steering column and rotate it . "Backdrive" = the linkage from the trans to the steering column . It works just like a column shift to make the shift lock with the steerign wheel lock . "shift bowl" = the aluminum housing just below the ignition key housing , where the column shift would normally be located.

I dont think you have any side marker lights . Keep the photos coming of progress .

Sheesh its been a long time since I've done a 350/400 swap . It does seem that the crossmember has to be moved to the rear a couple inches . IT also seems that the emergency brake cable mounts to the crossmember on the right side while it is pulled from the left side . When the crossmember is moved back then there could be a lot of slack in the cable that runs from left to right . So thats one place I would look into .

I think it may be easier to modify the door instead . If you can move the rollbar its not much good .

stent .... been there done that trick too . Rob glad to see you posting . Prayers for continued healing . May the Lord direct the Doctors to solve this for you .

DO you have a floor shift ? Possibly the cable has come off the shift shaft , or cable broken .

Do you have the adapter kit so the cable pulls correctly ? The Edel carb does not pull the cable the same distance/time as a Q-Jet . Check this link for the kit: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=WA3A1

The seal retainer is on the outside of the front pump . Here is a link that should show the retainer I speak of : http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/74089.html. The modification of drilling the oil passage can not be seen without removing the front seal . It can not be modified unless the pump is out and taken apart . It very well could have been modified at rebuild .

IF you push the converter all the way back ( away from the flexplate) its still going to move a bit . The pump drive end rides in a bushing and the shell is supported and centered by the nose stub . Yes it will move about . Its possible though you need to consider replacing the seal and front bushing . You mention this is a 700R4 . If it does not have a spring clip over the front seal , I would recommend you add that . ITs a saftey to keep the seal from pushing out from overpressure . There is an upgrade/modification to drill the oil return port to prevent the seal pusing out . If you trans was rebuilt it may have had that mod done .

Jim , I cant say how the 200 is built internally , I havent been inside one . So it could be possible that something is broke from the linkage . The column shift detent (in the column) may be slightly different. Also the original crosshaft will not move the tranny shift valve the correct amount of travel . The overdrive crosshaft has the down rod moved farther off center (to rotate more degrees) . The stock crosshaft should have only prevented you from putting the trans into first if adjusted to have P . You should have had P,R,N,OD,3,2 . IF you adjusted to get 1st then you may not have had P . If you have local U-Pullit or such pick up a crosshaft for an 80s Caprice/Impala with a 700R4 or a P/U with a 700R4. I think either will fit the Monte . I think lots of G body came with the 200 4r . I believe that shaft might work for you as well . Have you pulled the pan ? Look at the shift input shaft and see if the nut holding the detent is tight (inside the trans ). It may be loose and the detent plate is slipping on the shaft double D mount .This is my thoughts based on how the 700 is built. You might see somthing simple for the price of a gasket and oil . Nothing to loose if the warranty is crap already . Sorry to hear you having issues . I hope its a simple fix .

Andy , as Big Jim says there is one bolt . If I remember correctly its a 1/4" bolt (7/16 wrench ) . This bolt holds a flat plate which locks the " bullet " in place . Remove the cable . Remove the bolt and plate . Now the old "bullet"assy should come out with a slight twist and pulling . The driven gear should come out with the bullet . IF you watch the outer end where the cable square fits you should be able to see if the "driven gear is not coming out with the bullet . Thinking I may be wrong about the 1/4" bolt , it could be 5/16" . Be prepared for some oil to spill out .

I am taking a leap here and think you have the original console shifter for the T350/T400 .You may have an internal problem . When you change to the 4 speed auto you need the kit to change the shifter detents . I would have thought if you dont have the "new detents" that you might catch neutral when shifted to the reverse position . Its just a thought anyhow.

Not only would you need coil spring perches , you would need to build all 4 control arm mounts . It would probly be easier to change the car to leaf springs than build all that . The S10 is narrow compared to the Monte . Might even need tubs.

I had the pleasure to meet Ronnie at Bristol . Great folks he and Glenda . Prayers going up . May Ronnie rest at peace with the Lord . May Glenda and family receive strength from the Lord to carry on .