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Its Just Me

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Its Just Me last won the day on December 1 2017

Its Just Me had the most liked content!

About Its Just Me

Dues paying 5+ years
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  • Birthday 02/25/1964

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    Monroe, WI, USA
  • Legal Name
    Scott Nusbaum
  • Occupation
    Surveyor/Engineer Tech/Farmer

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  1. Call Chris at Straub Technologies (straubtechnologies.com). He specializes in roller cams but will recommend and sell flat tappet cams as well. Be ready to answer a bunch of questions about your engine and car, but I promise he'll set you up and you won't be disappointed. or Mike Lewis Racing Engines (lewisracingengines.com) is closer to you. He can do the same thing. Don't let the "racing engines" scare you, he won't recommend something you won't be happy with. Both are very reasonable and good at what they do. Trust the experts, not the hype. I'll never buy another catalog cam again. Scott
  2. Doug Stock ride height and proper pinion angle is the best thing you can do to combat wheel hop. If you're running air shocks all pumped up and worn out bushings, boxing your control arms won't make a bit of difference. I previously owned a big block Monte with boxed arms, new bushings, sway bar and air shocks. I also had the triangulation bars mentioned, I think some call them 4-speed bars (not sure why). At stock height, I never had any issues with hop. Put a few pounds of air in shocks and hop started to appear, over 25# and it was ridiculous. I got rid of the air shocks and never had hop issues again. Hop(e) this helps. Scott
  3. Beware the Gen V & VI big blocks, ie 502, do not have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. If your already running an electric pump, it's not an issue. Your flexplate/flywheel will also need to be replaced. I'm a fan of the ATK crate engines, check them out. Scott
  4. Mike: I'm struggling with the same thing on my new (small block) engine build. So far, the only thing that seems to work for me is premium fuel (my compression ratio is 9.6:1) or leaving it in gear (loads the engine) when shutting it off. I'm still breaking it in and fine tuning. I'm optimistic I can solve it without premium fuel. Like others have said, a fuel shut off/pump won't help, neither will adjusting your timing. You have a hot spot in the combustion chamber that lights off the remnant fuel/air mix after the key is switched off. Small blocks seem to be more prone to this for some reason. Is this something that just started on an old engine or is this a fresh engine build? A few options to try that are simple: Run some Sea Foam in the gas to try to clean up the carbon deposits in combustion chamber (if an old engine) Try premium fuel (if a new engine, compression ratio may be a bit higher than you think) Leave car in gear when shutting it off (this works for me) If not already, hook your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum, then slow the idle back down (this closes the throttle blades just a smidge more, reducing the air entering the engine at shut down. The same theory as the idle solenoid) 1 step cooler spark plugs Good luck. Scott
  5. I agree with Rob, if your happy with the springs in it now, keep'em. It seems to be a crap shoot with ride height when changing springs. Just change bushings, shocks & carry on. I have the Viking coil overs in my Chevelle that Paul suggested and I love them. Yes, pricey but not compared to other brand coil overs and the ability to adjust ride height is awesome. I also have poly bushings in my Chevelle (since 1990) and they don't squeek like everyone refers to BUT, I searched out PolyGraphite bushings not just standard polyurethane. They are available from a company called PST, on e-bay. Last winter I put a set of the polygraphite PST bushing in my Monte and have my fingers crossed they are as good as what is in my Chevelle. Time will tell, but happy so far with only 1000 miles. BTW, I paid $250 to have a local shop press the old bushings out and the new in, after I removed the arms from the car. I felt that was pretty steep, but they also changed 1 ball joint that was questionable. Scott
  6. NO!!! Do what you have to to get longer studs, even if you have to get ARP's. Is it worth a quarter panel or fender (or worse)?! Your stock studs are 7/16" diameter with a 24 pitch. If you're only engaging 8 threads, you're grabbing less than 3/8" worth of stud. If 3/8" was enough, GM would have used 3/8" studs. AND you're stressing the very end of the stud, not close to the base. Maybe fine at low straight speed, but put a little lateral stress on that around a corner and you'll be wishing you changes studs. Get 1-3/4" studs and they will work with both your new (beautiful) aluminum rims and your steel rims. PLUS you have the assurance of new (not 48 yr old) studs. Your car looks great, lets protect it (and you)! Scott
  7. I'm looking for an OEM or aftermarket style (not homemade) trailer hitch for my '72 Monte. Finish not too important as I will have it powder coated if needed. E-mail is: brigetscott @ yahoo.com & located in Monroe WI, 53566. Please send photos, price, shipping and your contact info. Thanks Scott
  8. Nice project car, enjoy the process & keep the photos coming. I sent you a PM Scott
  9. Doug: You can add that I have a build sheet for my Custom.
  10. That '63 Impala was made in Janesville, WI. It was displayed at the local Janesville Chevy dealership a few years ago. It was billed as a sort of homecoming. I snuck out on my lunch break to go look at it. Some of the details and the little things they found in that car are amazing. Like the metal plug that was drilled out on the assembly line so the antenna could be installed on the fender. Way cool. Scott
  11. I'm a vinyl top fan. All 3 of the Monty's I've had, and my '70 Chevelle, have been (black) vinyl. That being said, I vote for no vinyl on your car and let that beautiful classic copper shine through! Best thing about it is, you can't make a bad decision here. Scott
  12. Tony: Make sure your rotors/wheel bearings are not over torqued. If your bearings are too tight, things get hot and can cause the rotors to drag and it's really easy to blame the brakes. I believe the nut gets torqued to about 16 newton/meters, then backed off to the closest opening in the castle nut to get the pin in. Easy fix if this is the problem. If it's not the problem, it's still a good idea to lay your eyes on the bearings if this is a new car to you. Good luck. Scott
  13. I have a friend who put FiTech on his 69 small block Camaro. Overall he's pleased, BUT...the FiTech instructions encourage you to put the system on an engine that is already running and tuned. My friend did a bunch of engine mods, including the FiTech and had a very difficult time sorting through the normal issues of a fresh, modified engine vs the "normal" FiTech/computer/fuel/timing issues. He's a very talented auto mechanic, but was pulling his hair out. He definitely recommends adding the FiTech (or any fuel injection system) AFTER getting your fresh engine broke in and running properly. Tell us about the 427....I'm a big block guy myself and I (mistakenly) thought I could be happy with the 350 in my Custom. I too, have a 427 being prepped to go in the Monte. I've heard people refer to the 427 as "just a heavy small block" but I beg to differ. The torque of a lightly modified "small" 427 will put a smile on your face even if your accustomed to a 420 HP small block. Welcome to the "Rat" pack. Scott
  14. Bryan: Get the heads you want BEFORE getting a cam. The heads will dictate what cam will work best. Then CALL a reputable cam manufacturer and tell them what you have and what you want to accomplish. This is, by far, the best way to get what you will be happy with. Work with the people that understand cam technology. Now my shameless plug: My favorite is Straub Technologies, Piney Flats, Tennessee. Chris can set you up with a flat tappet if that's what you want, but his specialty is rollers. He also sets up heads for a good price and will steer you in the right direction. My 454 Chevelle has a Straub Tech cam, spec'ed for the heads I run. It has gramma car drivability and just screams when I hit the loud pedal. Oh, so fun to drive. I'm currently saving to put Straub built heads and roller cam in the Monte in my signature. I wish I could do it today, but I know it's worth the wait to do it right. As long as you can currently drive your car, keep driving/saving and do it once. You will not regret it. Best of luck Scott
  15. Nice job with this project Doug. Here are my updates: Exterior: Antique White/Black Vinyl Top Interior: Black Cloth Console Tach Air Conditioning Tilt Stock Condition (except rims) Aftermarket am/fm/cassette radio Van Nuys built
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