Daryl

Here is a pic of the OE one.

I see your at the other end of the state. I live in North Central iowa looks to be about 4 hours apart. As to the bad gas that could be it. Gas sitting al winter will have degrading from its original qualities. I have also seen cars sit longer than that and run with no issues.

Katrina I live in Iowa too. I might be able to help if your close. PM me if insterested

Have you checked for bad a ground?

Yes, in that area

Does this help?

My dash is gutted out. I'll get a pic tomorrow of the location for you. Should be easy to see.

I finally got around to installing the gauges in the instrument panel. First thing I did was clean the old housing and gave it a coat of semi-gloss black. Next locate the inner gauge holder. It only goes on one way and is labeled at the top with the word “back”. Slide the gauge through the appropriate hole in the inner holder. Install the the retainer ring, washers and nuts. Repeat this process for all 3 large gauges. Once done the gauge holder sets in your original instument holder Next the backing plate goes on. Once again it is directional and is labeled “Back”at the top. Notice in the picture there are 8 screws partially threaded in the plate. These are jack screws. Once the rear plate is mounted, 3 screws at the top and 2 at the bottom, it will hold the inner gauge assembly in place by screwing in the 8 screws. The LEDs at the top are for your turn signal lights. That's all I got for now.... will finish up tommorow.

My heads I bought bare, but I've read that what Patriot installs in there complete heads is good stuff.

I am hoping my car is drivable by this Fall. I'm 100% sure it will feel like a total different animal. I went from a stock car with a transplanted Ls5 to a 4 wheel disc, hydroboost, 3" drop, tubular A arms, 4L80 trans, 650Hp motor, 4.10 posi, forged axles and a quicker ratio steering box. Oh and I forgot about the much bigger tires over the stock ones. Keep us posted with your progress. How do you like your patriot heads? I have them too but as I said I havn't driven it yet. For my rear disc brakes I have the type that mechanically operate the pads for the E-brake.

I did end up lower the rear 3" with springs from ccp. The car is setting just like I hoped it would.

How does it brake now? I switched to a hydro too but I'm still a long way from driving it. I can't wait till its done.

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Here's my set up

Update- I finally settled on Flowmaster 50 Series #843051

Even if you don't up grade the headlights I've read that the wiring harness will improve the old halogen bulbs do to the increase in voltage to them. Another plus is it takes the load off the factory wiring.

Here's one http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d10fe72e7&vxp=mtr

Something else to think about is our factory wiring. The way I understand it how it works is that our original wiring sends electricity to the light bulbs after it is regulated to 12 volts. There are aftermarket wiring harnesses that can be obtained for about $25 and it allows you to hook your headlights directly to the battery. You will then plug your existing wiring harness into it and it only uses that as a signal to the new harness's relays for the headlights. The increase output voltage of the alternator/battery unregulated, I think usually about 14v, will make your headlights that much brighter. This harness can be obtained through Amazon, eBay and other online sources.

Sorry I didn't' reply sooner. The glass I got did have a curved lense. Close to the look of our original.

I scored ! I've been looking at these and the Dakota digital for some time now but was waiting untill I made some other larger purchases first. While surfing on eBay I ran across this auction. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-VINTAGE-USA-DIRECT-FIT-GAUGES-70-72-CHEVY-CHEVELLE-NVU-72601-69-NEW-DASH-/121574216516?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D121574216516%26_rdc%3D1&nma=true&si=BFB3WF3yK2MW1jfSJHiKdl1xbY8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I jummped on them right away. Ended up getting them for about half the price that Summit sells them for. I think I'll do a review and a video of the install because I coundn't find one for this gauge set anywhere. Might help the next guy out.

I totally rebuilt my 12 bolt with the following; posi, 4.10 gears, forged axels and disk brakes. Knowing what I do now I would have went with a Ford 8.8 and could have saved about $700. Could be a option for you. I just checked Friday and I'm getting a 8.8 with 3.73s, locker, and disc brakes for 150.00. This would require fab skills though.

I'm slowly gathering parts for a future build on a S10, gotta finish the Monte first! SBC 500+HP with a T56. Check out the 4 links below, may help. http://www.ddperformance.com/ http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0305-t56-six-speed-transmission/ http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0405-tough-t56-transmission/?cx_source=cxrecs&cx_navSource=related-bottom#cxrecs_s http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/48446-t56-six-speed-transmission-swap/?cx_source=cxrecs&cx_navSource=related-bottom#cxrecs_s

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I will have the look I'm going for. Our rear set is the same and I'll be a little taller up front with my 255 45 17s. I too went with the Boss 338s

Wasn't that a great feeling when you first got it running! It's almost like being a kid again at Christmas time. Good work.

Ditto what Sam said! I forgot to add that mine was around $6000 also. Here is a link to a build that was close to mine. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=662514