72MC

I personally would start over with this procedure. Remove all spark plugs, belts and etc. Remove valve covers, install crank tool to crankshaft nut, and re-do the lash on the rockers. Get it to TDC and cold lash them in. Use your fingers to spin the push rods until you fell resistance and then a 1/4 turn or so based on your abilitiy to spin the push rod with your fingers. Do this on all 8 cylinders rotating in cycle. ps. sorry I just spilled water on my board so I hand to keep it short and sweet. ugh - Dave

Nicely done,...Congrats!!! It was almost a forgoing conclusion since you had the best year of the 3. 1972 = best in class. - Dave Love the t-shirt !!

Congrats to all the winners. I am sure the fellowship had by all the members was by far the best part of the meet. - Dave

Man I like old pictures. Those a great Bruce. Thanks for sharing. - Dave p.s. - My eyes spied a 71-72 C-10 in there as well.

Well,.. you ask for my thoughts. They're just ok. I'm an old school five spoke guy tried and true, even on modern cars. I rarely deviate but whatever. The other night, I ask my wife what she thought of some rims I picked out for my 13 Camaro. She literally said, "if they are 5 spoke, I will slap you on the back of your head". Well, you guessed it, I got slapped hard. IMO, rims like you have chosen look great now because maybe it's the fad, but will you like them in 5 years. If you think you will and they are what you want, then buy them and have no regrets. Don't worry about what others think. It's your ride, do what looks right for you. - Dave

I believe I had the fans set to come on automatically at 205-210. I also had an override switch so I had the ability to turn on the fans whenever I felt like it. Came in handy many times. (ie. after shutdown, the temps got higher than they should with the auto switch, etc.) An override switch is a great safety net when it comes to electric fans. Re read your post. I believe I had the sender to the gauge in the heads and the sender to the fans in the intake manifold. Sorry, hope that helps. - Dave

Pertronix is good stuff if you're gonna stay or change to a HEI setup. If you go to ignition box and distributor, go with the MSD 6 Digital and MSD distributor mechanical advance P/N 85551. Great setup for tuning. As always,....JM2Cents. - Dave

If your engine is 180 degrees out,...you would hear a noise like a shotgun going off as soon as you turned it over. It takes two full revolutions of the crank to complete one complete firing sequences on all 8 cylinders. You're not 180 out. - Dave

NO RTV is needed. 10 years ago FelPro would have told you the same thing. The key is drawing the pan to the block in an even manner. The gasket is oversized in the valleys so it will appear to not be the right size or gasket when you try and pre-fit the oil pan. The gasket in the valleys will be very compressed and tight once installed. Best way to accomplish this is to use 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than needed bolts at the corners. Draw the pan to the block evenly until you can use the side rail pan bolts. Once all bolts are drawing the pan to the block, remove the corner bolts and replace with the proper size corner bolts. It's really that simple. I installed mine this way with NO RTV and never had a pan leak for five years. Not sure after that as the car was sold. I also torqued my pan bolts down to 30-35ftlbs at the corners and 20-25ftlbs on the rails all because of those metal sleeve inserts in the gasket. IMHO, the FelPro one pc oil pan gasket is one of the best upgrade maintenance parts since whomever created sliced bread. - Dave

Ah,...Glen,...I see you had the same problem I had. I posted a post and a couple days later I wanted to delete it and couldn't. So I posted a " . ". Wow, what are the chances . DJB!!!!!!!!!!

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Electric cutouts were the best "toy" that I ever installed on my Monte. Mine never stayed seated as a "complete seal" when closed. I dont know if any brand would do that from the start or for very long. Heat will kill them. I had mine on for a 1.5 years plus before selling the car. If I could do it again I would. Nothing like opening them up when next to big group of Harleys/bikers or even a Cop. The Bikers loved it. The Cop gave me a reserved smile with eye twinge which meant, "close em up". I do forget the brand but know I bought them from Summit. - Dave

Rob, from the pic you show it appears to have some "rose blush" in it. Kind a reminds me of Black Hills Gold which has a Rose tint to it. - Dave

clay, got caught up on your build and I gotta say,...I like it. Looking forward to more progress reports/pics. - Dave

Well, you're description was Ben to a "T". He was the guy I met in Sterling, Virginia who taught me to build 12 bolt rears. He gave me a ton of stuff before he retired and moved to Arizona. Was really hoping it was him. Oh well. Ben was the kind - a - guy that was willing to teach. Not everyone is so patient. I hope Jesse is that guy for you. Guys willing to teach can be few and far between. - Dave

Curious Murphy,.......his name wasn't Ben Apple was it? - Dave

Enjoy the build. When you're not enjoying the fun of restoring, take a break. Have fun. - Dave

Love it!!!!!!!!!!!! I was 5 when my Dad bought a 72 Chevelle. I grew up in that car. My Dad LOVED that car. Had it repaired and drove it even after a stop sign runner t-boned him and the insurance company "totalled" it. Keep those old pics a comin. - Dave ps - My first car was ALMOST a 1976 Cutlass S. My dad said "no way". He knew how much trouble I would have gotten into. In hind sight,... I do have a lead foot and do love me some speed.

I ran a Powermaster that had an actual output of 158 amps. I forget what the advertised amps were but I never had any issues. I had a sub panel in the engine compartment with alot of electrical accessories from fans, fuel pump, water pump, etc. Probably overkill but oh well. I didn't want to be short on electrical supply. It was a good alternator. - Dave p.s. - I would buy from someone like Summit Racing before I would buy from OPGI. I would also check with Leo at Konik Klassics. He's a long standing member here and is located in Michigan.

If you want to keep and rebuild that rear, make sure you deal with someone that knows that there is a differance between a BOP rear, GM rear, and a Pontiac 10 bolt. I always had great success with my builds using Randy's Ring and Pinion. Their website used to be user friendly. Hopefully it still is. I believe they are out of Washington state. I had a Pontiac 10 bolt at one point but disposed of it so I could concentrate on 12 bolt rears only. Enjoy the build. - Dave

Bottom line is this. You have a Pontiac 10 bolt posi in 2.73 gear. Carrier is obviously a 2 series. If you don't like the rear, I think there is at least a "cult following" market for them that you could get some money for a bigger stronger rear. That rear will only serve you properly with a stock to mildly built street small block in front of her. - Dave

Donald, the pics above are missing your type of rear end. The Pontiac 10 bolt cover has scallop shapes at the 3 and 9 oclock position. The Pontiac 10 bolt was a 8.2 rear but was considered stronger / better that the BOP 10 bolt and the GM 10 bolt in 8.5. Will it handle the power a 12 bolt can handle? NO. But they were sought after rear ends for guys with engines such as 327 s etc. Check out this site: http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/10bolt-tech.htm - Dave

That looks to be a Pontiac 10 bolt rear in 2:73 posi. The "half moon" shape at the 3 and 9 o'clock position on the case is the key. It is part of the BOP line of 10 bolt rears but is considered the best of that line of rear ends. Does the cover have half moon shapes at 3 and 9 o'clock? - dave

I rebuilt a TH350 and mated it to a mild 402BBC in my El Camino. I used the Hughes Performance rebuild kit and valve body. Worked fine for the short time I had it before selling the vehicle. - Dave