silver71mc

Replacing motor mounts on 402 with the motor in a 71 MC. Can someone walk me through the best way to replace the motor mounts with the motor in the car. I'm removing the exhaust manifolds, they need to be to be ceramic coated anyway, hoping that maybe I can bring the mount out the top, don't know. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

​Thanks, Rob Both are secured tight to the bumper, checked both grounds to the radiator support, they are tight. Guess I'll order a or buy a socket from somewhere, and swap it out. Not sure witch is bad.

Front passenger side parking and signal light brighter than driver side. Not the bulbs, switched and replaced them, no change. Thanks

cbolt, thanks for the shock part numbers. Nice looking car. Paul

Hey Guys, thanks for the comments, anyone have any part numbers for the Bilstein shocks for a 71 Monte Carlo? I'm having some trouble finding a part number for the Bilstein's shocks for my 71 Monte Carlo, but I can find the part numbers for Bilsteins for a 71 Chevelle. If they fit a Chevelle I would think they would fit a Monte Carlo. Is there a different in the shocks between the two? Thanks, Paul

Anyone running Bilstein shocks on their 70-72 Monte Carlo? Checked the Bilstein web site, they have shocks for a 70-72 Chevelle, but don't make them for a 70-72 Monte Carlo. I thought they would be the same shock. Any info would be helpful. Thanks, Paul

Hi I have a 71 Monte Carlo, I replaced the non tilt column with a OE tilt column. I purchased a 3 spoke wheel kit ( OPGI pn 97CH70 ). It came with everything I needed, except for a horn contact spring and pin kit. I don't think I can use the OE spring and wire horn contact setup, doesn't seem to be a way to plug the wire connection into the horn button. Looks like I need to use the spring, pin and locking sleeve set up. The confusing part for me is, the tube on the tilt column horn cam does not have the locking groove cut into it, the groove and the locking sleeve that fits onto the pin is what holds it all in place. If anyone has info on the correct horn contact setup for a tilt column with a 3 spoke wheel, I would certainly appreciate hearing from you. Thanks, Paul

Hey Guys, Thanks for the info. Guess I'll start looking for a alignment shop that works on older cars. Thanks, Paul

Hi, I'm restoring a 71 Monte Carlo. I have done a complete rebuild of the front suspension, and will have the front end alignment done soon. I replaced the stock spindles with two inch drop spindles. Will this change the front end alignment specs? If so where would I find the new specs? Thanks, Paul

Good deal, that's good news. Thanks for the info, Paul

What is the correct name for the part that looks like a condenser, that is mounted on the coil bracket? Does it help to eliminate radio noise? I replaced the points with a Pertronix ignitor module, do I still need that part. The connecting wire separated from the round part, so if I need it. I need to get a new one. Can I get one from the local parts stores, and what do I call it. Thanks, Paul

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I did get the drive shaft back in the car over the weekend. I think it was like John S. said, the arc of travel of the rear housing, and the lack of weight of the car. Without the weight the springs creating to much space between the body and the rear, which moves the rear on a arc towards the front of the car. The springs are the ones that were in the car when I bought it. I didn't install new springs. The lack of weight is because there is no fuel in the new tank, no rear bumper or bumper brackets, and no interior. To get the drive shaft in I jacked the car up by the rear end housing, put jack stands under the rear frame, with the shocks disconnected let the rear down enough to remove the rear springs, then jacked the rear end housing up into the car until the drive shaft would fit again. I'm going to let it ride for now, but once the car is done, and with all the weight back in and setting at ride height, I'm going to recheck the play in the drive shaft. If it's still tight I will have it shortened, at that time I can get a better idea how much. So thanks again for the help, I still have a ways to go before this car is done, so I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks, Paul

Hey Guys, thanks for the replies. I didn't loosen or remove the lower motor mounts from the frame. The bellhousing is bolted tight to the engine, the trans crossmember is bolted back in the same frame bolt holes. Yes, I'm using the oe lower control arms, they were removed, boxing plates weided in, and new bushing installed, and installed back in car. The drive shaft is pretty close to going in, maybe if the drive shaft was a 1/2" shorter it would fit, that's with the caps removed. It's hard to get a exact measurement due to the angle. I've read or heard somewhere that there should be 3/4" of free play movement in the drive shaft. This is the first time I've run into this, Usually you slide the drive shaft into the trans and slide it back to the rear and bolt it up, this time there's no sliding it back, it make contact with the rear with the drive shaft full forward into the trans. Thanks for the help, Paul

I'm restoring a 71 Monte Carlo, removed engine, transmission, and driveshaft late last year. While the engine was being rebuilt, I had all the upper, and lower rear control arm bushing replaced. I also had reinforcements welded onto the lower control arms, and added a rear sway bar. Installed the engine and trans last week, now the drive shaft will not fit, seems to be to long. I have raised, lowered, on jack stands, on the ground, loosened the rear bushing bolts, and disconnected the rear shocks. Still will not fit. This is the driveshaft that came out of this car, I think it was a little tight coming out.The drive shaft length is 54.5", it has the TH400 trans. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks, Paul

Scott, cost of the converter is $235 + shipping. Hope to be up and running by mid Oct. Paul

Hey Sam, that's what I was thinking around 2,000 maybe 2,200. Here are the numbers I got from the people who know. Summit # TCI-241501-A 1800 to 2000 TCI # 240900 2400 to 2600 Coan #20211-4 2400 to 2600 Transtar 2300 to 2800 Freak Show 2400 to 2600

Ok, talked to Michael at Freak Show Performance. He knows torque converters, and it's not very often that you get to talk to the guy who builds your part. So, I ordered a torque converter today 2400 to 2600 stall. He said it will start to move around 1800 rpms. When the car is up and running I'll let you know how it works. Thanks Bluemalibu for the help. Paul

Badddion, a pro street is what they recommend I use also, that's a 2400 to 2600 stall converter, and it's trying to move the car at 1000 rpm. I don't know much about torque converters, but seems to me they got something wrong. Picking this converter has to be the worst part of this restoration so far, going to talk to freakshow performance tomorrow. If they say 2400 to 2600 stall is correct for my setup, which is just a mild street car, then I'll have to give it a shot, and hope for the best. Thanks Guys

Hey guys thanks for the info. Talked to a couple tech guys from TCI and Coan, they think 2400 - 2600 stall speed will work well. Waiting to here back from Summit. What do you guys think? Thanks, Paul

Restoring my 71 Monte Carlo, the motor is rebuilt, and ready to be install. Need help selecting a torque converter. Info that I have, 1971 Monte Carlo, weight 3851lbs 402 bored 30 over Comp cam 224/230 @.50 pn 11-242-3 rpm range 1,600 to 5,800 dual plane aluminum intake, Weiand Street Warrior 670 holly carb stock exhaust manifolds, 2.5 dual exhaust stock heads, rebuilt factory AC replaced with Vintage Air TH400, stock trans 331 rear gear tire OD 27.1", width 10.2" Don't want the car to try to move forward or cut off while setting at a light with the AC running. Don't know if this is enough or the right info, but let me know what you recommend. Thanks for the help, Paul

Same here, bought a kit for a Chevelle from Ground Up. Some times they have free shipping on orders over $99.

Hey guys thanks for the info, I'll probably get the plastic ones from the Parts Place.

Thanks Sam, I'll check The Parts Place out.

Going to replace the inner fenders on my 71, anyone had any experiences with the Goodmark plastic inner fenders? Thanks, Paul

I think I'll try the model glue. Thanks for the info.