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hamster

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Everything posted by hamster

  1. Yep, has been a while. Still around yet just keeping busy. No more road trips? Rather than highjack the thread, don't know if you still have my number but you are welcome to call, like to know it's nothing major. I'm sure I have yours somewhere yet if you still have the same one, I'll see if I can find it and try to call you if I don't hear from you soon. Don
  2. I would like to go as well to catch up, some of you remember me... We will be in NYC Aug 31st though, hope you can come up with a date that's good for all. Don
  3. Thanks for the info on the oil Don, makes me feel a lot better after reading this post as I have been running Rottela T in my personal vehicles for about 15 years now. I can verify the ads they used to run with a picture of the crosshathces in the cylinders after running 750,000 miles as I have actually had the heads off engines with this kind of milage. (big truck engines) The one vehicle that I Run Quakerstate 5W30 in is my wifes car, she was running that in it before we got married and I've never had good luck switching from one brand to another as it seems to make gaskets leak or make a sensor go bad or something, so I stuck with it. The car has about 260,000 on it now and it uses just over a quart to 3,000 miles, can't complain. Don
  4. Tim, Not sure about the condensor, but you can use the sight glass method to make sure there are no air bubbles in the system when charging. Make sure you replace the receiver/dryer if converting over and the system should be evacuated properly before recharging. Don
  5. This has probably been brought up before but I tripped across this site and thought someone may be interested... http://www.window-sticker.com/index.htm Don
  6. Kind of late for a reply to this but my heart felt sympathy goes to George's family and friends! Reading through this thread makes me remember why I like this club so much, it is truly family here rather than just a club! Don
  7. Kevin, Sorry to hear that you have to give up something that was your dream, but it just shows how much you care about the club by stepping down. I'm sure that it will keep going strong and you will be remembered as the founder. Like George said, you should be granted a lifetime membership. I've only been a member for just over a year and thanks to this club I've learned more than ever about my Monte, it's obvious everyone here has learned something about thier car from this club. There have been a lot of friends made here and abroad as well. Thanks for taking the initiative to start it and to keep things going and growing! Hope the extra time you have bring lots of extras to your life. You can't get too much of the good things in life, whether it be just stopping to smell the flowers, watching an ant trying to carry food home, or watching a sunset, you have to take the time to do it. Thanks again Don
  8. Hey Aaron, this link don't work for me, maybe because I'm not a member of Chevy Talk? It won't bring up any of the postings on the page so I still need the phone number yet. Thanks
  9. Hate to ask this, but does anyone have the phone number handy for the Canadian GM office so I can order a build shhet for my car? I had it wrote down once and lost it somewhere and lost it in my infinite pile of sticky notes. Thanks Don
  10. Are you using the right type of gas? With the flux core you don't need gas with it. Is the gas pressure high enough? Depending on the heat and wire size you are using you should have the regulator set around 25-30. Are you trying to weld in breezy conditions? Even a ceiling fan can be enough to beeze to mess it up. The key things are clean metal, the proper wire size, gas pressure, and clean metal. Steel doesn't have to be as clean as aluminum but it sure helps. If the wire is corroded or even dusty enough it will effect how it welds. What I've done in the past is take a peice of scratch pad or cloth (something that has NO type of oil residue) and use a paper clip or something and clip it onto the wire after the drive unit but before it enters the cable. Obviously you don't want it too tight. This may not even work on yours, this was done on a push-pull unit, I never had a reason to try it on my little one but the wire needs to be clean. You may have to adjust the wire speed if it puts any drag on the wire. Try using a .025 or .030 wire, .035 is too much for a good weld on sheet metal. As stated before, the polarity is different between flux core and regular wire so make sure it's right. If it is a 110V welder make sure that you are using an extension cord that is rated high enough for the welder, low voltage will hurt the welder and the qulity of weld as well. The best bet is plug it into the wall directly. I had this happen with the little one that I have at home, used a 50' cord with a low rating and couldn't get it to weld good at all. Took me a bit to figure out what the problem was. Hope this helps Don
  11. The link taht Marchie posted should answer a lot of the questions that you have, if are refering to a custom badge on the rear of the car, I don't think there were any that had that, they were on the sail panels only. My 72 custom has the custom steering wheel and the 3/4" wide belt mouldings on the doors that are a good starting point to look for if it has the package or not. If the car was built in Canada you can order the sheet which will tell you for sure what options it came with. Don
  12. Thanks guys, now I just have to talk my wife into letting me buy something that I can't bolt on to the car! Suppose I could, but it wouldn't look very good. Landshark, check out the following post, I think that they can provide it for any car.. http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003730#000004 Don
  13. I know that Bruce has recieved one of the spec sheets from GM Canada, has anyone else ordered one and did you have to pay for it? I called them today and the guy on the phone said it would run roughly $38 US money, I just wanted to be sure that others have had to pay for it and the guy that I talked to wasn't just in a bad mood. I haven't seen any discussion of paying for them (the ones from Canada)in any of the previous posts, so this is why I'm asking. Don
  14. Not sure if this is the one that you are looking for or not..... http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~eswapsearch Just realized what you are looking for, this site can come in handy though. Do a google search for "gm part number search" and it will bring up a couple sites that have the dealer locator. Don
  15. My guess would be that depending on the compression ratio and the amount of fuel, it wouldn't literally "blow the spark out" but it would be that the spark would not be intense enough to ignite the higher fuel mixture under extreme compession? Just a thought Don
  16. You can also use a good pair of vise grips to grab the top part of the spring, just make sure they are on good and tight before you pull on it, make sure someone is holding the hood up or you have it blocked, don't let it fall on your head
  17. Send away, my email is always open Not sure I'll be able to help, but I can try. Don
  18. It could just be that it is low on freon if it shuts itself down after a short itme of running. If there is no cold air getting in, sounds like there may be a problem with the door changing positions in the heater box. Feel the lines when the compressor is running. the pressure line out of the compressor will be hot (hot enough to burn you) then where it goes into the condensor it will be still be hot but cooler, you can move your hand around on the condensor and it should get cooler as you get closer to the outlet of it, the line going to the receiver/dryer will still be warm, and the line that goes into the heater/ac box will be warm. From the compressor to the heater box the lines should gradually cool down, the froen goes from a hot gas and gradually cools to a warm liquid, if there is an abrubt temp change in the line, that's were the blockage is. Is there any air in the sight glass when running? It's normal for it to form ice on the suction lines while running, after the warm (liquid) freon goes through the expansion valve (in the heater box) it should be converted to a cold gas (instead of the warm liquid it just was) and then it goes through the evaporator and gets sucked back into the compressor to start over again. So as the prevous post stated, it could be the expansion valve isn't letting enough freon through and it is causing a blockage and won't let it perform as it should. I just noticed that this is your first posting, welcome to the boards Not everyone gets this carried away with the answers that you are looking for Don [This message has been edited by hamster (edited 07-20-2003).]
  19. Normally the warping will come form being not torqued down in sequence or not being torqued equal. Or if you would have a bad habit of outbraking other people so you can get ahead of them at the next light,(not that I know anyone who would) overheating will cause this as well. I do agree with Bob that the newer thin rotors have a lot to do with the problem, they seem to warp alot faster than they used to with the finned rotors. Broken belts in the tires will cause a pulsation in the brakes over time as well, I will never buy a Good Year tire again! Of couse at the rate they are falling aprart on our car I won't have to, they get replaced under warranty too fast.
  20. Dave, when I first found this site I had read some info on the Custom package that someone had posted, I can't find the link back but I did print it out at the time. It refers to the mouldings in question three times as belt mouldings and to my understanding they were on the 72 Customs only. And yes they are wider than the standard ones. If I can figure out where I got this info from I'll let you know. Don
  21. I don't know Ed, but it sounds like you were the one in the drivers seat
  22. I know a couple of people also that have gone with the spray in liners, they really like them. I think they are the best choice for the long run, the only disadvantage is, IF you would ever get in a accident and have to redo part of it, it will be an added cost in removal and replacement. Trying to get the stuff off to do any welding or anything would be a major hassle, but it's better than having it rust.
  23. Nothing like a good quality screwdriver, gently tap on the handle with a hammer, somtimes that is enough to break it loose. Or you can use a hand impact (the type that you hold and hit with a hammer) but you stand a chance of breaking the lens that way.
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